Dicor CS114B-1 Seal-Tite Corner Seal Tape - 1.25" x 50'
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Butyl tape is replaced by this. To double-seal the trim in place, I applied butyl caulk over it. For more than a year, there have been no leaks.
Yes, mine is a little out in the open, but I've had no issues.
It's possible, but it's not simple. br>In order to be used on a corner, 1- 1/2 " is a very small amount of space. Best wishes to you. When cut, it becomes extremely sticky and difficult to work with. This is just my opinion.
The tape is slightly thicker than Gorilla tape. It has a felt side and a peel-off clear tape side; do not place it anywhere where it will be visible; once on, it will not come off.
Selected User Reviews For Dicor CS114B-1 Seal-Tite Corner Seal Tape - 1.25" x 50'
Corner rails on travel trailers need to be sealed. I took it out and put it back in again. All four corner rails of a fiberglass-walled 32-foot travel trailer were sealed. br>br>All of the preparation is crucial when using Dicor Seal Tite Corner Seal Tape. Remove any residue from the previous butyl tape and caulking with a scraper and mineral spirits. br>br>For a good adhesion, have a good roller ready to press on the coner sela tape. br>br>Use caution when applying it because it is extremely sticky. It's similar to Eternabond tape, but it comes with a felt liner. Apply a thick bead of CRL's "Black 777 Butyl Rubber Sealant" on both inner sides of the corner rails and a dab on each screw hole after you've applied the corner seal tape. br>br>Run a bead of black Sikaflex 221 polyurethane sealant between the walls and the corner rail after the corner rails have been screwed in and any excess butyl sealant has been wiped away. br>br>To smooth out the Sikaflex 221, use a nitrile glove with a light water spray on the fingers. If you follow this procedure, you will have a three-layer barrier against water intrusion through the corner rails. br>br>In my opinion, this method of corner sealing is superior to factory methods. br>br>On the exterior, never use silicone caulk sealant. Silicone is only used in bathrooms, not on the outside of RVs and travel trailers.
To replace the useless putty tape on the corners of my travel trailer, I used this. The putty failure has been designed into the camper's design to ensure future leaks and delamination, which is usually not discovered until after the damage has been done. If you intend to keep the camper for a long time, this upgrade is recommended. On YouTube, you can watch the video. It's simple to do with some common sense and a few tools and materials. The preparation process takes time, but it's well worth it if you want to protect your investment. I also used dicor self-leveling sealant where needed on the roof seams and non-leveling sealant on all vertical seams. This is something I would recommend to anyone who has a leak or wants to avoid one in the future. They ARE going to occur. There's also a good video on YouTube that shows how to use epoxy to repair delamination. It's also not difficult if you put in the time for prep work and a lot of bracing and/or clamping. Best of luck, and have a great time camping.
This stuff is fantastic; I've ordered more, and I'm going to do the entire camper.
We have a 15-year-old trailer, and we decided that sealing the corner seams on both front edges would be beneficial. We recently discovered a small leak on the floor in a front corner, which we believe started in a front roof top corner and ran down the front edge. We used lap sealant to reseal the front roof edges, as well as the front vertical corner edges. We discovered rust on the four top screws on the metal corner trim on the side with the leak when we removed the vinyl trim. The corner trim pieces were removed, Dicor corner tape was applied, the old caulking was cleaned off, new butyl tape was applied, and everything was reattached. Since then, we have only had one rain and have found no evidence of leaking, so it appears that the corner tape and new sealant did their job. Thank you, Dicor, for a great product at a reasonable price; we even have enough tape to cover the back two corner edges. We learned how to do it by watching a YouTube video.
My trailer's seams were literally ripping apart. It took a long time to clean 15 years of gunk off the trim after removing it, but once it was cleaned with mineral spirits and thus super clean, we simply pushed everything back together and applied the tape. When it came time to put the trim back on, it held the seams together really well. After that, I used Sikaflex 1a to seal it. It's a breeze to work with this material. It doesn't cling to your skin at all when you use dish soapy water, and you can smooth it over like smooth putty for a clean finish. It rained last night, but not a DROP got in, so I was just in time. I've made the decision to change my mind.
So I thought I'd done my homework and found a product that would seal the leading edge corners of my toy hauler. This was discovered, and after reading some reviews and watching a few videos, it appeared to be a simple task. br>br>All right, let's see what we've got. I was sorely disappointed with myself. And I never make a mistake. right? br>br>As shown in the videos, I removed and cleaned the 'old style' butyl rubber tape beneath the extruded trim. Placed this tape on top of the trim and reattached it without any tape underneath it. The trim was then sealed to the tape with a tube of butyl rubber. It's pretty simple (just be ready to be SCHOOLED by butyl rubber. ) That's a lot worse than anti-anti-anti-anti-anti-anti-anti seize (a can of mineral spirits will come in handy because it gets everywhere). br>br>Fast forward one round trip of 800 miles. I didn't realize how much the panels moved because this was my first hauler. It's more likely that winged monkeys will appear and play Jeopardy than that this tape will stay put. At Venice Beach, my Weekend Warrior Featherlite flexes like a roided bodybuilder. br>br>I've tried putting more butyl rubber sealer down twice, but it just gets nastier with each trip (imagine an 80-year-old roided bodybuilder). AFTER I SPEND ANOTHER 4 HOURS JUST PREPARING THE SURFACE, I'll have to remove this cheesy tape and replace it with the proper rubber tape. br>br>I've learned a valuable lesson!.
It performs admirably. It does a fantastic job of sealing the corners. I went with the 2", so it shows a little after I reinstalled the corner molding, but I didn't mind. My camper is about 12 years old, so it has a few cosmetic scratches, but it's much more important to have it sealed up the way it is now.
When applying, go even slower. Before applying the makeup, I took great care to clean and prepare. On a FOUR YEAR OLD HIGH END TRAVEL TRAILER, this was the result of a major construction rebuilding of rotten corners and rotted floor joists from leaking corners. Due to a fully enclosed belly, water was able to enter for four years without being detected. I'm not sure how corners don't leak if this product isn't used.
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