Dicor Butyl Seal Tape | RV Sealant Tape| RV Tape (1/8" x 1" x 30' Quantity 2)
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Yes, I've done it, and then I use a self-tanning lotion. Over the tops of the screws and the vent's edges, apply a layer of leveling sealer.
"Country of Origin -" reads the technical information on this listing. USA"
I'm guessing it's to protect it from water because it's so perishable.
Selected User Reviews For Dicor Butyl Seal Tape | RV Sealant Tape| RV Tape (1/8" x 1" x 30' Quantity 2)
br>br>First and foremost, this product has become something of an industry standard, and it is a significant improvement over standard putty tape. I like how sticky it is, but it's a pain to put together. br>br>The product's paper backing refuses to release it, shredding into tiny pieces that you must pick out of the product, while the product's adhesive quality sticks to your fingers incessantly, creating a huge mess. Dealing with the paper shredding will turn a 5-minute job into an hour-long ordeal. br>br>I recently had to do a roof rebuild and purchased four rolls. After the first roll was a nightmare, I discovered a HUGE tip that will help a lot of you if you decide to go this route and use this product: FREEZE the rolls before use! br>br>When the temperature rises above 60 degrees, the putty takes on the consistency of used bubble gum. It will cling to the paper, your fingers, and anything else it comes into contact with. It retains adhesion once frozen, but it is far more forgiving. It will easily release from the paper with a single pull, and if it is placed incorrectly, it can be easily pulled up and repositioned. Simply work quickly and refreeze if the situation becomes too much for you to handle. br>br>I hope that this information is useful! Mike Kahlebr>Mike Kahlebr>Mike Kahlebr>Mike Kahlebr>Mike Kahlebr>Mike Kahlebr>Mike Kah.
My 1972 truck camper was stripped down to the studs and rebuilt, with all of the siding, vents, windows, and jack mounts removed. To re-seal everything, I used 14 rolls of this tape. Things I've discovered. 1. br>br> Do not use silicone to seal anything on your camper for the love of God. When it fails, nothing else will stick to it, and it's nearly impossible to remove completely without a wire wheel. 2. br>br>1. br>br>br>br>br>br When it comes to the temperature at which butyl tape can operate, there is a sweet spot. It will stick to everything, including your fingers, if the temperature is too high. If it's warm outside and you roll out a long length, it'll easily stick to itself before you can use it. It won't stick if it's too cold, and working with it is difficult due to its stiffness. If you apply it on a cold day and then tighen down whatever you're trying to seal, it will squish out and you'll have to trim off the excess again once it warms up. On hot days, I keep my rolls of tape in the refrigerator for a while, and in the winter, I hang them from the heater vent. 3. br>br>4. br>br>5. br>br>6. I find that applying the tape to the object you want to bond rather than the surface you want to mount it on is the most convenient method. You should also dry fit the item you want to seal first so you can see if there are any spots that need more layers of od tape. Especially on corrugated aluminum corrugated corrugated aluminum corrugated aluminum corrugated aluminum cor In that case, I'll use a lot of tape on the mounted surface side to fill in the voids. br>br>4. When it comes to butyl tape, don't be afraid to use multiple layers. Because this tape is thin, you'll want to make sure that all of it engages both surfaces and that you get a decent amount of squish before trimming it away. 5. br>br> The tape is much thinner than what was used at the camper factory, as I previously stated. Allow for twice as much as you believe you'll require. If your camper is made of corrugated aluminum, you'll need a lot of tape, but if it's made of flat-sided fiberglass, you won't need nearly as much. 6. br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br> Give it some time to do its thing when it comes to trimming. For the time being, at least. Then, on a cool day or early in the morning, trim the excess hair. When the tape is nice and cool, it's easy to make nice clean cuts that look just like they did when it came out of the factory. In an ideal world, you'd let your freshly applied Butyle tape warm up for at least one minute before trimming it off when it cools down. Before you trim it, you want it to squish as much as possible.
The tape was already hard when it arrived, and it wouldn't even roll off the paper backing. It's very frustrating when you plan a project that is dependent on something and it turns out to be unusable when it arrives.
I'm using it for the first time. It was an excellent solution. On a 26-year-old class C motor home, I re-sealed a front window that was leaking water into the interior. There are several important points to consider. I had a flat, smooth surface on which to work. Because of the hot, muggy evening, I put the seal tape in the refrigerator. Make sure to thoroughly clean all surfaces. The job was completed with the help of mineral spirits, a scraper, and a window cleaner. Remove any remaining sealant from the surfaces. It stretches easily, so make sure you position it correctly the first time, and keep in mind that it will stretch as you remove the paper backing. Remove the backing before applying it to surfaces. I discovered that the window frame screws had rusted as well, so I replaced them with 10 1 inch stainless steel screws. With a screw gun, gently drive them in, then hand tighten the screws until the new seal tape extruded and the screws were snug. There is no longer any leaking because it is raining. When the rain stops, I'll trim the excess seal tape. Cleaning all of the surfaces where the seal tape needs to come into contact is a bit tedious and time-consuming, but it's well worth the effort to know there's no water leaking under the window frame. The cost of resealing the window was estimated at $200. I used a single roll of seal tape and stainless steel screws for less than $30. It was well worth the time and effort to save $170.
When compared to butyl tape from the camping store, this is much stiffer, making it more difficult to work with. In the end, it produced essentially the same results, but with a lot more effort. It was extremely difficult to remove the tape from the roll without it stretching out and becoming extremely thin. I put the roll in the freezer for several hours as a last resort, and the results were slightly better. When this was shipped, it came in a bubble envelope, which caused it to get squished, which made it nearly impossible to use that part of the roll.
Just read the review to see if it's the right width from the manufacturer. I used it to reseal my windows and roof vents. Make sure it's a little bigger than you think you'll need. If there is too much sticking out, you can always scrape it off. It's not a good idea to make it too small, particularly around the edges. When doing the corners, keep in mind that the tape tends to stretch thin, making the corners narrow. That is why I recommend ordering a size larger than you think you will need. It's pointless to finish the job if you'll have a leak in a few months. Being safe is preferable to being sorry.