Adam's Iron Remover (16oz) - Iron Out Fallout Rust Remover Spray for Car Detailing | Remove Iron Particles in Car Paint, Motorcycle, RV & Boat | Use Before Clay Bar, Car Wax or Car Wash
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In most cases, the procedure is as follows: (1. ) clean the car, (2. ) vehicle made of clay, and (3. ) decontamination of paint (iron remover); (4. ) compound, (5.) compound, (5.) compound, (5.) compound, ) polishes, and (6. ) isopropyl alcohol for paint prep, (7. ) dry vehicle 100%, (8.) dry vehicle 100%, (8.) dry veh ) whatever sealants/ceramics you want for paint protection, (9. ) Apply a thin layer of wax (this isn't necessary if you're working with ceramics, but I like the extra gloss and protection. br>br>When done correctly, this process can take up to a day to complete. By taking some shortcuts, I was able to cut the process down to about 7 hours from start to finish, and I believe that the average DIYer who just wants their car to look clean could probably cut some steps out and get a good detail done in about 3 hours.
However, because iron and fallout deposits show up on lighter-colored vehicles, it will be difficult to see the results. For decontamination of dark-colored vehicles, claying is recommended. Alternatively, if even with a dark finish, you can see rust colored fallout on your vehicle, this product should be used. Thanks!
The shade serves as a barrier between the product and the paint. Although washing the product first isn't a bad idea, it must be thoroughly rinsed to avoid damaging the clear coat. I'd recommend rinsing the car first, then spraying on while it's still wet (to avoid accidentally letting the product dry), then washing and rinsing to ensure that all iron remover is removed from the paint. This is my personal workflow, which has proven to be effective.
It's a matter of personal preference, and you can mix and match brands to achieve the results you want, match the difficulty or ease of use you prefer, complete a specific task, and meet your quality expectations. This product can be used before the Gyeon coating phases because it comes before any paint correction or coating/protection application steps. The embedded iron deposits and contaminants in your paint will be removed with this product. Thanks!
Selected User Reviews For Adam's Iron Remover (16oz) - Iron Out Fallout Rust Remover Spray for Car Detailing | Remove Iron Particles in Car Paint, Motorcycle, RV & Boat | Use Before Clay Bar, Car Wax or Car Wash
The product was put to the test on an old truck that had accumulated years of iron deposits. This stuff works like a charm. I didn't use the product correctly, but it still removed a lot of product; if I remember to take pictures after washing the truck, I'll post better before and afters.
I was ecstatic when I saw this come out for the price and from Adams, but it will leave permanent streaks on PPF, clear bras, and plastic trim. This is not suitable for use in hot weather, and especially not in direct sunlight. This will not be done by IRON X. Maybe it's the dye or scent they used, but I wouldn't recommend it and would only use it for wheels until they fix it. Use a fallout remover of a higher quality brand.
But not to the extent that I had hoped, and it left me with a couple of issues that I had to address with cutting compound. I purchased this item because I enjoy Adams Polish's products in general. I had to remove some iron deposits from the paint on my Ford Powerstroke because I was working on something nearby and the metal particles landed on the paint and embedded themselves. In any case, I needed to get rid of them because they had left a slight blueish hued iron oxidation look on certain areas of the paint that had been exposed to metal particles and brake rotor material as a result of driving. As a result, I decided that the Adams Iron Decon would be ideal for the job. It worked well on the majority of the paint's problem areas. However, there were a few spots where I hit it twice and didn't get all of it removed, so I ended up finishing some spots with a light cutting compound, which solved the problem. But, even if you apply the Iron Decon in a cool shaded area and the paint is cool to the touch, even after rinsing, I noticed it stained my black paint and almost looked as if it had stripped the clear coat to a dull hazy finish and left stained streaks, even after letting it sit for three hours. 5 minutes, thorough rinsing, and re-application The area should be cleaned by hand. Because of the staining that it left, I had to compound those areas as well. Given that the problem did not occur in other areas, it's possible that it was a case of user error. Perhaps this is only a problem with darker paint colors, but be cautious. Also, DO NOT USE IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT OR ON HOT PAINT (if directions are not followed, you will get the same staining effect on darker paints).
The original owners kept it garaged, so it wasn't in bad shape, but it needed some TLC. After rinsing, I sprayed the entire wet car (using the entire bottle) and let it sit for about 10 minutes before rinsing as directed. I could see the Vibe working despite its dark red color. After rinsing it, I gave it a good wash with CG wax remover soap, followed by a clay bar. The Iron Remover was so effective that the clay bar glided smoothly across the paint from the start, picking up very few contaminants. I strongly advise you to use this before claying. I'm glad I took the chance. I intend to use this service again.
It's simply awful. Instead of using this, you should avoid using an iron remover. I'm not sure if Adams intentionally made this weak because most of their customers aren't familiar with detailing, but this stuff does nothing. CARPRO IRONX is the real deal, so do yourself a favor and get it. You'll be glad you took the time to look into it.
My Tesla hasn't been properly prepped or waxed. It's been 5 years, so it's past time; the paint still looks good, and I'd like to keep it that way, so I'm planning a clay bar, polish, and wax job. br>br>I've got all the machines and cleaning supplies I'll need to do a good job. I'm glad I purchased the iron remover. I simply sprayed it on, waited for it to turn purple, and then hosed it off. Easy. There was a lot of purple, and the little orange spots had vanished. It is, in my opinion, an important step to take, even on a brand new car, but especially after 5 years of use. br>br>I docked a star because the bottle could have been a couple of ounces bigger. As I got closer to the end, I had to be more careful with my application. I needed the entire bottle because my car is quite large. I could have used two more ounces, but I made it and am pleased with myself for completing this step. br>br>There's one more thing I'd change. I wish I had purchased a product that could remove both iron and tar. On the tar, I used another product. So the prep took two passes, but they were both simple, so it wasn't a big deal. br>br>Adams Iron Remover did a fantastic job on the iron, which is why I purchased it. It also removed a significant amount of dirt from my wheels. It's all good. I'd recommend it to others.
This was applied to a three-week-old Ford F150 that had significant rail rust on the hood, fenders, and quarter panels. This 3-step process was used by me. 4 times on those areas, using up the entire bottle and removing a little more iron from the paint each time. It didn't harm the plastic trim, but I avoided spraying directly on it and only waited four minutes. It took about 5 minutes each time, and it removed about 3/4 of the iron, but I still had to clay bar the paint to get rid of the rest. Given the price difference between iron-on and non-iron-on, I was quite pleased. x, which I'd never heard of before but seemed to be the best in my research. Although the scent was pleasant, I would recommend wearing a respirator or at the very least not using this in a windy area to keep it out of your face and lungs.
My family owns two pearl white cars, and I'm always fighting the orange rust spots on the paint. I recently detailed both and used this product to help with the removal process before claying. It did a good job, in my opinion. I didn't have any of the previous reviews that were mentioned. This could have been avoided if I had done both cars in the garage away from direct sunlight. The smaller specks vanished, but after a second application, some of the larger ones only lightened a little more. I wouldn't use it alone to strip prior to sealing and waxing because I believe a full clay bar treatment is required to do the job properly, but it did the job and reduced the number of clay bar passes.
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