Toro 106-3955 Front Wheel Drive Transmission Assembly

Each end of the drive shaft has a metal gear. These gears appear to be the same no matter how they're mounted, but they're not. There are two approaches: one is correct and the other is incorrect. Use a marker or a piece of tape to mark the end of these gears before removing them. I had one wheel that was moving and the other that was not. I flipped the gear on that side, and they're now both functional. The slot machined into each end of the shaft beneath these gears is the other point to consider. Each slot has a small piece of metal in it. If you take a gear off and turn the shaft so the slot is down, the piece of metal will fall out and instinctively crawl to some dark recess, where it will be lost forever. It is inserted curved side down into the slot. Finally, each end of the shaft is fitted with a retention ring (snap ring). It has the appearance of a c- a washer with a small hole in one end and a larger hole on the other. Get a proper tool to install and remove these things if you don't already have one. It will save you a lot of heartache and skinned knuckles. If at all possible, borrow one. If you can't, here's something you might like to look at on Amazon: VISE, IRWIN 6-piece set of GRIP Convertible Snap Ring Pliers 2078900, 1/2", 2078900, 2078900, 2078900, 20.

Kenna Becker

| Nov 27, 2021

If your wheel (s) is locked, there are a few things to look into. Remove the pulley and inspect the top bearing for damage, as well as the side of the housing to see if it is oblong rather than round (where the axels exit). Remove the wheels and gears if everything appears to be in order. The "clutch" (a key -) is located inside the differential and beneath the gears. Half-football in appearance with a small spring). Check to see if they're clean and moving freely. This could be the answer. If not, the front differential, bearings, and housings should all be replaced. If either is out of the ordinary, the front drive differential will need to be replaced. For the front wheels, you'll need two new bearings and bearing housings. You can look at the old ones, but if the differential failed, the bearing (which is difficult to remove from the housings) was most likely ruined. br>br>At the same time, you might want to replace the wheels; mine were bald, and I spent around $25 on a new Toro 2 pack. br>br>In order to save $10, I recommend purchasing the housings, bearing, and differential as a kit. br>br>Before you begin, you'll need to get a parts skematics from the internet, which will show you how to put the parts together in the correct order. To remove the two external clips, you'll need an external/internal retaining clip tool (a split circle with two dots). br>br>Remove the parts and reassemble them in the opposite order. Before installing the new differential housing (curve down), make sure the very small "clutch" spring and key (half-football-shaped piece of metal) are clean. br>br>When moving forward, the gears should click, and when moving backwards, they should lock. If the engine is in good working order, this is a worthwhile project; mine now runs like new.

Julien HOWELLS

| Sep 13, 2021

The front wheels must be unbolted and all washers must be removed. spring clips, small drive gears, and an additional set of washers clip, and (most importantly) the teeny-tiny half-dollar bill Tabs and springs in the shape of a moon nested in the grooves on both ends - They're also SMALL. You'll also need to remove the pulley, spacer, and cable guide from the top of your existing part, as well as the bolts, because this part comes with no hardware. br>br>Remove the bottom plate from the gearbox on your old part and pull the box off the top of the axle; the pulley on mine was spinning freely and was difficult to unbolt. A nut can be held in place with a deep socket around the base of the conical gear the pulley drives (and under all the grease). It's simple to unbolt the pulley if you keep that in place. Keep all of the washers and clips in the correct order for the wheels (I stacked them as I removed them). Unbolt the entire wheel-br>br> On one side, remove the height adjustment assembly (you don't have to disassemble it; simply unscrew the two bolts on the inside). Remove this to make room for the old axle. br>br>Thread the new axle assembly into the bearing on the side you didn't remove, reattach the height adjuster/bearing you did remove, and put the washers and clips back in place. Do the inner part first, then thread the gear back on, putting the tiny spring in its hole and the half-round spring in its hole. After that, thread the gear over the top of the moon bit. Check that the gear is locked in place when the axle is rolling forward; if it is locked when you are pulling backward, flip it. Reassemble the wheel by adding the final washer and clip. Last but not least, secure the cable guide and pulley. br>br>It may appear to be a lot, but just keep track of all the parts and the order in which they were removed. With a ratchet and a couple of pliers, it took me about half an hour, and I'm not even that clever.

Fletcher Bradley

| Oct 11, 2021

The pinion bearing on my old drive was failing. I just installed it, but I'm hoping it lasts as long as the old one did, which was 11 years. br>Some things to keep in mindbr>No, the holes aren't tapped; the old unit's self-tapping screws thread right in. br>Note where all the washers go, which way the gear is positioned, and that there is a spring and key inside the gear when removing it from the shafts. The drive will not work if the gear is installed backwards. br>There is likely a bearing in the backside of the wheel bracket that needs to be replaced as well; now is a good time to do so.

Destiny McIntosh

| Apr 14, 2021