Nilight - NI-RS05 LED Light Bar Rocker Switch 5Pin Laser On/Off LED Light 20A/12V 10A/24V Switch Jumper Wires Set for Jeep Boat Trucks,2 Years Warranty
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Two pins on the right side of the board can be eliminated when oriented toward the player. Basically, all you need to do is run the top ground, the middle constant power source, and the bottom signal/relay. There is no need to use the jumper wires that come with it. It is the icon of the light bar that does not light up when turned on, but when the light is turned on, the bar symbol and the light will both illuminate.
You can cut out a switch that is "blank" on your dashboard. It can be filed to fit by cutting it a little smaller. Then you can pick a spot to start from, if you don't have a "blank".
That information isn't available to me. , but they take up a lot of space in my sxs, so they are always wet. The system is working fine
To do this, you need to find a power wire connected only
Selected User Reviews For Nilight - NI-RS05 LED Light Bar Rocker Switch 5Pin Laser On/Off LED Light 20A/12V 10A/24V Switch Jumper Wires Set for Jeep Boat Trucks,2 Years Warranty
Our company has installed several of these switches in multiple RZRs. The units are rated for 20 amps at 12 volts, but melt at 15 amps at 12 volts on every one of them. When you need to operate more than 10amps, you need to use a relay. There are no ways to contact anyone other than Amazon about the 2 year warranty. We hope they update the information soon.

Nilight has the following information There is one unit of product size. The diagonal measurement is 9. 5" (48. The box is 4'4" (26. Three millimeters). This mount has a 1 inch mounting hole. The size of the item is 43" (37mm) x 0. 001. A pair of 84" (21. )
I purchased the switch, which is well-made and very similar to other Nilight switches I have purchased, but the internal L is different. I found that my Nilight Winch Switch had a brighter light than my D lights. Even though the wiring diagram comes with the switch, it is not as clear as it should be. Using the terminals, one can obtain different results according to his or her preference. My goal was to wire the lights to the IGN switch so that the TEXT of the L would be visible. I only saw light appearing on my light bar switch when my IGN switch was on and the L button was engaged. If I used the L, the light would only be on for the D. In the dark, you will see a D Light Bar. In other words, I wired it in the manner shown on the website, but please see the details below for more clarification Instruct your customer to follow these wiring instructions The switch is wired to have Switch TEXT lit in NIGHT mode and to have the L turned on when the L switch is switched on. It would be useful to have the D Light Bar lit up only when the IGN was ON, as well as the TEXT of the Rocker Switch when the key was turned on, but NOT the symbol until the actual L was turned on. When the switch is pressed, the light bar turns on There are two terminals Terminal 2 and Terminal 3 In order to jumper the 6 wires together with your ignition switch (12Volts+), you will need to connect a wire from the ignition switch. There is a relay at Terminal 3 for the line Consequently, this feature doesn't power the D Light Bar, but only the relay to feed the L with battery power. (Terminal 3 does not provide power for D Light Bar, but instead power is supplied from the battery via a heavy gauge wire that is wired directly to the relay that has the inline fuse. The light bar). This is Terminal 7 and this is Terminal 14 Eight of these are jumpered together and used for GND for both the SYMBOL and TEXT lights. 1 and 4 are the only terminals that do not exist.

From a vertical standpoint, it is off. A Toyota FJ Crusier has a horsepower rating somewhere between 1 and 2. Trying to force it can crack the panel into which you are pushing. The quality of these is excellent. Small spaces are tough to measure, as I am sure the manufacturer knows. This might qualify as 1, but I'm not sure. A vertical height of nine. There may be a bit of a difference between the slot and the image. It would be better for NiLight to list the vehicles they fit on their website. I love my NiLight light bar and will buy more from NiLight in the future It's just that we can't buy the switches until the sales team gets its act together on switch fittings. We ordered a switch that didn't fit and we had to return it. Returning an item is both time consuming and disappointing. Symbolizing "measure and discover" while the sales pitch states "SUV, etc. " is too vague for faith to be placed in it. As a result, they are given a 3 due to the lack of proper sales data.

I ordered this as it came with a round switch in the wiring harness. The knockout was already there for rectangular tractors, so it didn't appear necessary to drill on a new tractor. There were 2 minor issues. This one had a larger round connection than the round one used previously, so the jumper ends needed to be modified to attach to the Other issues included it being too big to fit into the The butterfly plastic wings on the 1 switch make it look like a butterfly. The length is 5 inches. In its dimensions. I used a wire cutter to remove the wire and then filed the bare ends to It can't really be blamed on the presume that not every application will be exactly the same size. The red jumper on the bottom 2 pins allows the switch to only light when it is on because the direct battery connection. Certainly it is not very bright when it is on, but it should remain useful for some time to come.

With the wiring diagram, I was able to set up the LED lights on my truck in the correct order and turned on and off the LED lights I installed on my truck. It's the only complaint I have, and that is that even though the backlight turns on when the switch is turned on, it's not nearly as bright as it could be and doesn't illuminate the switch nearly as well as it could. I was a little disappointed in that, but the lights are still on.

This kit comes with instructions and jumper wires, and is well worth the price. I found the installation of this rocker switch to be easy since the switch came with the extra jumper wires and pictured instructions. Previously, I had purchased rocker switches from other companies that didn't come with the jumper wires, and that took a lot of time to install. There is a lot more work involved in having a crimp cut strip and heat shrink wires than it takes to just plug in the wires, but this item comes with them.

As indicated in the provided wiring diagram, when the jumper wiring for this switch is connected to battery+, the "power on" LED will be always on. The only way the wiring diagram will function is when power is provided instead from a switched accessory source. If the wire is supposed to go to the light, it shouldn't be connected directly to a large load such as On an automotive relay, the wire labeled "To Light" should be connected to terminal 85. The light bar will need a fused battery-supply, a ground line, and two wires to be connected to the relay. It is easier to run the switched ground and hot wires all the way to the light bar than trying to rely on the vehicle body to provide.

A modification. A modification. As I mentioned, I bought this switch as part of the set of lights on the Bull Bar. I also want to match it up with my On the basis of the dimensions, I figured it would fit the dashboard blanks I had already prepared. The moment has come. It would have been nice to have checked that twice. It is most likely going to be an actual Toyota switch set for this truck and we'll save this rocker for later use, which is nice. I shouldn't have written it as a bad review, since I should have measured to see if the back of the switch would fit in the dash without having to modify it.
