Powermaster 47861 Alternator
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Definitely, I have a 95 Chevy 2500 7 with a manual transmission. It fit into 4 and was the right size. The bracket had to be ground down a little in order to clear the pulley fan, but that was nothing too major
A 140-character sentence The engine draws 145 amps when cruising at highway speed and 90 amps when cruising at low speeds When the engine is at idle, it draws 95 amps. It is generally known that nearly all standard alternators produce 65 amps at idle, but 100 amps at highway speeds.
In addition to the external regulator, it has an internal one. It must be hooked up directly to the battery and plugged in from behind. It is important to use a thicker wire for connecting the alternator to the battery. I used a new battery cable as a wire so I could get the most charge and so if the wire get too small it will heat up. I wish you the best of
There is no problem with it. There were some areas where the bracket had to be ground down to clear the alternative fan- (2500 95 K 7
Selected User Reviews For Powermaster 47861 Alternator
As you can see, I have to “re-" 7L), A clock can be provided (E8 1/4" Drive Socket & Co. The 1/2" Drive Socket is 24 mm thick and a 1/2" Drive Impact Wrench is required to remove the Pulley). I then removed the "Sleeve" in the long mounting boss (that slides out easily) so that 10 mm bolt can be threaded through. I added a new "Charging Positive Cable" which is larger (there is a recommendation of 8 Guage), and PowerMaster requires a new 25 thread cable. Attaching the alternator to the engine "ground cable" (I used 4 gauge directly in series with the post negative of the battery). *Please note Prior to installing the 12 inch "Pusher Fan" on the Driver's Side (1230 CFM), I installed a Quality Thermostatic Controlled 12 inch "Pusher Fan". As such, when we drive in stop and go traffic, especially in the heat of summer with the air conditioning on high, the battery is no longer in a discharged state, and we are very pleased.
There are several reviews on it that fault it for having to be clocked, but I did not need to do that for a GM 4 of the early 90s. I had no problems with the accessory brackets 3 and 4. There are some reviews that mention the underperformance of it during hot idle. As hot as I could run it in Virginia in the fall, I produced 8 volts at idle. The only thing that I didn't like was the absence of a grounding bolt. After I searched my bolt bucket for one, I headed to Home Depot to find one, and it turned out I had several of them, though the threads were a bit I bought the bolt for 15 cents, so it was okay. I think this was a good alternator for the price, and it worked well for me personally, but I will have to wait and see how it does.
(Which, I'm sure, voids the warranty, since you need to disassemble the alternator to turn the corresponding components in the proper position. 3) The factory plug is oriented upward, not out the side.
I'm sure Powermaster could have just placed a Powermaster.
Due to the lack of performance, sometimes I could see my headlights dim while stopped at a traffic light or stop sign. I have even faced resistance from my wife who claims that there is no difference in the lights at idle or stop after the alternator is installed. The battery should be connected to the battery using a heavier wire than the stock one, as per the instructions. My solution to the problem was to use a replacement battery cable. The units come with all the connections I need, so it may be overkill, but I couldn't find the same thing elsewhere. You will need to get a longer battery post bolt if that is In addition, I notice that my battery seems to have a higher temperature when I let my truck sit for a while. That is probably due to the battery voltage being maintained so much better now. had to "Reclock" the housing so it fit my 1994 GMC K1500, but it proved to be easier than I anticipated Take a look at the directions and follow them!.
The product is great. Only two minor issues concern the + output connector, so 5 stars instead of 4. As opposed to a bar with a tiny hole in it, I think it would be better to have it as a stud. You should place it in the upper half of the page. The stock valve cover on a small-block Chevy has only a little bit of clearance (since it is a serpentine belt style valve cover). There is no way to clear it with after market valve covers. In the end, I had to make a bracket to get clearance for the bracket. The rest of the program works just fine.
Fortunately, I'm able to keep my voltage above 14 with this powerful alternator from Powermasters. In addition to tall valve covers and the mounting plate connected to the exhaust, the alternator will need to be reclocked if there are tall valve covers The engine is a 7-cylinder As I did not possess either of those, I didn't need to modify anything. I simply had to remove and replace the bolts. An upgrade of these three components is a good idea.
It provides me with the voltage I need and works very well. I had a failing alternator for about two years with my last vehicle. I was not getting a proper charge out of my battery due to low voltage. It took me less than an hour to replace the battery and alternator, and I was back on the road in no time. I had one small issue with the threading, which was because the screw size on the original didn't want to go I managed to get it done,.
My order for the second was placed just a few minutes ago. Here's hoping it lasts as long as it did last time. Unless I can get my hands on Powermaster I will never again purchase it. The only way to know is to wait and see.