Energy Suspension 9.13101G O.E.M. Style Tie Rod End Boot, Black - Pack of 2
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This is what I used for my 1963 Ford Falcon. I'm not having any problems.
The Energy Suspension website does not appear to have any listing for the 2007 Ford Edge.
Before you can install the boots, you need to remove the joint. This will not cause the alignment to be out when you pull the machine apart to install the Similarly, you do not need to put grease in the dust boots first. The joints stay greased and dirt, water, and debris are kept out of the joints due to these grease-retaining lubricants. An ideal solution would be to use a grease gun to grease the joint with the zert fittings.
There are no universal parts. You need to go to the website of the manufacturer and check part numbers.
Selected User Reviews For Energy Suspension 9.13101G O.E.M. Style Tie Rod End Boot, Black - Pack of 2
My 2002 Ford F-150 is not working after I installed these 7. 250 The third car is a four-wheel drive. The boots of drag links are to be replaced. It does not appear that there is a suspension system that is an exact fit for my truck on Energy suspension. I decided that for $4, it's worth a try after listening to someone else's review about working for a similar truck. As a cheap attempt at a fix, I used a pair of boots I had lying around to keep the grease in and prevent the wheel from clunk when I turned the wheel hard. According to my observations, it appears to be doing what it is supposed to. There are no gaps between the two. To find out whether a better fit is possible for my ball joint, I took measurements. Nine is a number. There is a number 13105 next closest to that. Although they are inexpensive, I would order them both next time to see which works best. Here are a few pictures I took as a Please pass this information along to anyone else who might benefit from it. Wishing you all the best and good night.
This revision has been made to Version 7 This year I increased the rating to 3 stars from 2. In the case of the Ford Expedition 4WD 2002, there is a limited range of tie rod boots available for replacement. While I still cannot recommend it as a good fit, it seems to be one of the better fitting options. To test whether gluing the boot to the ball joint will fix the issue, I've tried to glue the boot to the ball joint base. This review is based on the Original Although the manufacturer claims to describe this part as fitting a 2002 Ford Expedition, I was not able to install it. It is too short to be held in place by the surrounding components, and it does not have any steel ring molded into it to help it grip the base of the ball joint on the tie rod. Despite being brand new, it still wants to pull away from the ball joint. As you can see in the photo, it does not fit well. My next step must be to replace it with something better in the near future. The time spent there was wasted.
The rubber boot on the tie rods of my 2003 Ford F-150 was lost, and these were perfect replacements In late spring, I changed out my steering gear box, which had been damaged by my pickle fork, and I couldn't find a suitable replacement. However, reading other reviews showed that this would work, so I bought My initial reaction was not entirely positive because these are shorter than the originals and grease leaked out for a few days after they were installed. My attention has just been drawn to it again, and the grease appears to have stopped coming out, so not sure if that means the boot is conforming better or if I overdid it on the.
The fit of the vehicle isn't exactly the same as On a 1997 Ford Ranger XLT, I installed four of these to replace cracked tie rod and steering linkage grease boots. I have the same OEM grease boot for both the tie rods and the steering linkage ball joints on my truck. The pros are I am* *br* This is an easy to install product. The slipperiness and flexibility of the ball joint castle nuts allowed them to slide on smoothly as I tightened the I am* *br* Their tight fit on the ball joint enables them to provide stability. The drawbacks are I am* *br* In the OEM boot, there is a plastic mounting ring on the wide end that is designed to lock into cutout ledges on the ball joints. This cutout on the ball joint is actually a manufactured cutout on the Energy Suspension boot. Because of this, the edge of the boot actually sticks out! In this way, it doesn't seal as well as an OEM grease boot and relies on its elasticity to help it do so. It is true that grease leaks out around the wide end of the door. Because of this, make sure you clean the ball joint during installation in order to ensure that the new boot has a clean surface against which to seal. - These grease boots have been filled with grease in a similar manner to Grease the seal with the grease gun and pump until a little grease starts to squish out from around it. When I did that with this seal, I had plenty of excess grease that kept squishing out after driving for about a week. After crawling under the truck three times to get rid of the grease, I wiped it off. My only wish is that I could find some that fit a little more like an OEM style (with the mounting/sealing ring), but these are okay. In order to keep them sealed, I will grease them and check on them regularly.
My tie rods and drag links are Moog products because they are the best, but even the rubber boots on the Moog are wearing out after 6 or 8 years. Moog pieces snap onto these seals so I replace their snap on pieces with these ploy seals. Their durability is much greater than rubber end caps, so they usually outlast the rubber ones. The only thing to keep in mind is that Moog rubber boots snap on and may be sealed better (prior to tearing), but the poly bushing is a pressure fit and tends to leak grease after putting a grease gun to it at the base of the boot. *It is necessary to keep them lubed up at reasonable intervals so that any contamination can be removed. For those of you who enjoy working on your car, this probably won't be.
Moog DS1430 tie rods and drag links were installed on my 2002 Jeep Wrangler as part of an overall steering refresh and upgrade. The following streets are within 500 meters There have been only a few miles since the boot on the link completely separated. There is no better replacement for this. When you start to torque down the joint, it does go on very tight, but it will eventually seat with a "pop".
As far as the tie rods were concerned, the original style boots were cracked, but the boots themselves were fine. After installing the new caps, the grease in the tie rods is well retained and sealed. In order to replace old and defective boots, I plan to keep a couple of these on hand. Tie rods from most GM vehicles should be compatible with them.
The boot worked but at the bottom there was no seal. The outer tie is used for This will depend on the end of the rod. After removing the old outer tie-down, I placed the new one in its place. On the lower side is an extra boot and wire retainer that provides a crack where dirt and debris can enter. When installing new boots, I discovered there was a small gap where debris can We had to adjust the cover several times to ensure complete coverage. It is of a high standard of The seal is good, just not tight enough to prevent grease from getting in and dirt from getting.
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