Hellwig 987 EZ Level Helper Spring Kit
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No way, not with a spring to assist you. When the truck is loaded, this spring is only activated. You'll have to look at how the truck was lowered. It's possible that you'll have to reverse the leafs to the axle's top and reinstall the factory blocks.
Yes, the entire hardware package is included.
On my 2009 Silverado crew cab, I have a set of these. They don't really lift the back end, but they do keep the trailer from sagging when I'm hauling a tractor in it. They can be adjusted by adjusting the u-bolts. The rear leaf springs are stiffened by bolt clamps. I don't think this is the product you want to use to lift the back of your truck, but it will keep your trailer from sagging further.
It depends on how tight you make the u-joint. bolts. On u-bolts, they employ a two-nut system. a set of bolts for adjusting I've got mine set to halfway, which is about an inch high. When I'm towing a camper, that's more than enough to keep the truck level.
Selected User Reviews For Hellwig 987 EZ Level Helper Spring Kit
I just finished putting these in and took my time. I kept loosening and tightening and loosening and tightening until I was satisfied with the installation. I think I put in about two hours total on the installation. Make sure they're not crooked, or one side of each clamp will be doing the majority of the work. To get the bolts started, I used a wood clamp to gently squeeze the springs down. I didn't want to damage the Perty powder coat, so I avoided scratching it. After the double nuts were installed, I tightened the ends until two threads of each bolt were visible. This was enough to take up the slack and keep the shackles from moving. I went for a ride after the installation and was pleased with the ride; it's a little firmer and has a little less body roll. I'm sure it'll tow like a different vehicle when I tow our trailer over Memorial Day weekend. I'm currently at the bare minimum of adjustment, but there's still plenty of room for tweaking if necessary. br>br>Excellent hardware, springs, and instructions. br>br>Ascertain that the spring's long end is facing back. You'll see what I mean if you take a measurement from the center to the end. I believe this is why one of the members of this forum had problems with his installation. They appear to be operating in reverse.
For the towing and rock hauling I do, I should have gotten a 2500. However, having a 1500 makes things a lot easier. There's no rattling now that I've reduced the gap to 1/4". I also positioned the center humps slightly off-center to ensure that the first layer of springs was evenly spaced. Although I'm not sure if that's correct, it works perfectly. They appear to have provided a slight rear lift, or it was simply assisting my flattened stock springs in returning to their original height. br>Use two jacks to droop the rear axle up and down; this will take less than an hour to complete.
When towing, the truck doesn't sit as much, and I prefer to keep more weight on the tongue, as is recommended. The rear lifted about a half to three quarters of an inch after I got them where I wanted them. It sits beautifully and still has about three quarters of an inch of rake after I installed a Motofab 2" level with the Hellwig's rear blocks. Sierra 1500 Z71 Crew Cab, 2014 GMC Sierra 1500.
Despite the fact that I was missing two nuts (and no, I didn't lose them), I haven't loaded them yet. With these, the 5 gmc has a much smoother ride over bumps. I expected the truck to feel stiffer, but despite being firmer, it rides much smoother on bumpy roads. It appears that I installed some high-quality shocks. The truck now has zero roll around turns, and I'd buy it again just for these features. I emailed the company in the hopes that they would send me the missing hardware nuts.
Three stars due to the excessive amount of extra work required. Although the placement on top of factory springs was a perfect fit, I expected a lot of adjustment after reading so many other reviews. I had only 3/4" between the factory spring and the new helper spring without any U bolts installed. (See image. ) After installing the two inner U bolts (which took about 10 minutes), I ran out of threads on the longer U bolts due to the short distance between the factory and new springs, necessitating the use of a heavy piece of steel to make a spacer (see photo). After that, three of the four of them required me to die the threads with a 7/16x20 die. They simply refused to accept the nut (as seen in the photo). I'm fortunate in that I have a wide range of tools at my disposal. (It's possible that the guy after him won't) I haven't had a chance to load up the 26' camper and put it through its paces. In a week, I'll post an update. Overall, it should have taken me no more than 2 hours to finish.
They didn't appear to be the right fit. The instructions say to leave a 1/4" gap between the leaf springs and the helper spring, but I couldn't quite manage that. I have them in the proper position. They helped with squatting a little, but my load assisting shocks (basically Monroe coilovers) made a bigger difference. I'm not sure I'd buy these again, but they did help with towing stability a little.
New trucks aren't designed to tow nothing. I regretted trading in my 3/4 ton for a 1/2 ton. These do make a difference in a small way. Stiffen the springs as much as possible. I'm still figuring out how tight I want them to be. Although the camper only has a 550-pound hitch weight, the truck is also loaded with firewood. I'm not sure if airbags would have been a better choice.
This isn't the best explanation for where spring should be placed. There are two positions available: front and back. and plenty of space over the pick-up spring u bolts I just kept moving until everything was clear and the clamps were in place. It appears that everything is in order. In a month, we'll learn more. I took measurements before and after raising the back 3/4 inch. If I need more assistance when loaded, there is more room where I left it to tighten clamps.
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