Moog 81069 Coil Spring Set
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Just installed these on my 2008 H2 and they work perfectly. Despite my desire to lower the rear a tad, the ride height remained factory, which chagrined me because I wanted to use the factory roof racks but retain clearance to enter my garage.
The rear of the car should be lifted at the frame on both sides so that the tires hang. Also, put a floor jack under the rear diff, remove the tires, lower the shock mounts, and lower the You can use the lower jack to remove the rear diff and the springs should be able to come off without any problems. I was able to install new springs and spacers on my '03 Z71 Tahoe without the need for Please put another floor jack under one side of your differential to lift it a little if you are having trouble. In turn, this causes the other side to drop a little bit If you are going to jack up the center of your diff to reinstall the shock and swaybar mounts, ensure the springs are straight. Additionally, you should get new springs for the
can replace your rear spacers with this set of springs and your Yukon will sit level perfectly. I would recommend replacing your spring coil seats (MOOG Part # K160072) I looked it up for you This is precisely what you need, and you will not need the rear spacers any more. I hope you have a good one,
I don't believe so as Acadia is built on a different frame than other vehicles built by General Motors. The Tahoe and suburban areas are covered by these
Selected User Reviews For Moog 81069 Coil Spring Set
The air ride suspension without the compressor is not air ride suspension. Purchasing replacement shocks would have cost $300 each, so I decided to research and found that if I removed the factory coil springs and swapped them out with coil springs designed for the Z71 suspension, I could utilize regular gas shocks. There's an independent shop nearby that wanted over $300 for labor. This is absurd! It took me just a couple of hours to install these Moog coils and a pair of Monroe Gas Magnum shocks in my driveway, using nothing but The only thing missing is six bolts. Pop the links out by removing the bolts on the rear stabilization bar (this will allow the rear axle to drop far enough to allow the coils to be removed). To remove the old shocks, you must remove the 4 bolts holding in the shocks and then jack up the rear of the car until the wheels no longer touch the ground. The shocks and coils will just come out with ease. The coils can be installed, the vehicle lowered, the bolts reinstalled, and everything reconnected. The process is really simple. It took longer than I expected for the rear end to go up after installing. Two inches or more. In addition, it now rides slightly stiffer, but that is perfect for how I use my trailer. I love how my car is now so smooth!.
The parts fit perfectly and the install was easy. My truck now has a great stance. Having removed my factory 17 year old worn out springs and garbage air shocks (which I replaced 3 years ago but are again shot), I rebuilt them with new springs and new air shocks. A little jacking up of the back of the truck Removed both shocks, as well as the sway bar links, and disconnected them. A lift was added to the truck. We pulled the springs out by hand, replaced them with new ones, and lowered the truck a few degrees. The sway bar links were bolted back in place, along with a set of Billstein 5100 shocks. Connected the air and electrical connections for the old air shocks in a cabinet. The Jack was lowered to the lowest point. By disconnecting the negative of the battery, pulling the RTD fuse and reconnecting the battery, the autoride was erased. By doing this, I was able to get a full two inches of clearance and my 285/75/r16 (33") tires now look incredible! The stance is also much better. I've never experienced anything like it. You'll no longer have a soft, bouncy ride. It'll be firm, but not harsh at all. The gun does a great job in the woods and on the road. This ridiculous compressor does not randomly turn on or go off on its own, neither does my dash indicate any other failures. As I deleted the autoride properly, nothing to worry about. This is a highly recommended book. It is okay to be afraid of the Autoride feature on a vehicle equipped with it.
It is quite a bit higher than stock, but I didn't bother measuring because the rear was sagging. The plan for 2 is . It would be nice to have a 5" front leveling kit for the front as well as Moog 81114 springs for the front if Amazon will ship them to Hawaii. This was from the used side so it let me order it and they shipped it to me. If springs have broken in, it should lift the front end and create maybe 3 or 4 inches of lift. These platforms require leveling kits that come in a 2 part spacer kit, not the spring hat front lifts that bolt on! If you do, then you will have issues with binding. There is always research to be done! In keeping with the Supreme Suspension The leveling kit I bought myself is 5" and is 2 pieces and still available at an affordable price.
The system worked flawlessly. They were installed on the rear of my 2001 Chevy Tahoe, it had the zw7 smooth ride shocks and they were ruined with 260K miles on them. Despite the fact that the rear end was starting to lean to the right and the ride was terrible, I refused to spend an outrageous amount for the factory shocks (Nivomat). Moog springs worked perfectly, and the Bilstein shocks added to the rear made the vehicle ride even better. Installation was simple and the vehicle rides very well. There is a slight rake in the rear since the rear was lifted by about 2 inches, but it's a 2WD, so the front doesn't sit as high as it would on a model with four wheels. It will be interesting to see how it does after I pull my boat next season, but I suspect it will be fine. I found the springs and Bistein shocks at the best price on Amazon, and free shipping was incredibly quick.
The rear of the car was also raised. I've never experienced a better ride or a better drive than in the Suburban. In addition to the Monroe load levelers, I also raised the rear a bit more with the Monroe load levelers. Having a new setup has made the truck much better at towing and sagging less.
The spring used in the Tahoe, Suburban, and Yukon "Z71" packages is the same. adds about an inch to the height of a suburban from a measurement standpoint. My knowledge has it that this is the only Heavy Duty spring that does not require additional If you want to deal with it, air bags are another option. With the LS, LT and other models, the spring has a softer feel and has a coil configuration that is a bit wider. Compared to a standard coil, this 81609 has a tighter coil package and thicker steel coil. I believe the standard coil is 5/8" but this one is 3/4". website discussion forum on the Tahoe/Trailblazer website has details/pictures of the car if you wish to look for more information online. For a suburban, installing the shock is pretty easy. Just disconnect the lower shock bolt and the sway bar bolt holding the axle together. You will need to raise the frame of your vehicle high enough to remove your old spring and replace it with the new one. You must reverse the order of putting everything back together. . . While jacking up the vehicle, keep an eye on the rubber brake lines to make sure you do not force them so badly that they rip. They will get tight, so be careful where you elevate Go to a place where they do it for you if you don't know what I'm talking about. Please do not hold me responsible for the instructions I provide. Despite my discomfort in my vehicle, I did not feel any difference in the comfort of the ride, not as a spongy ride as I expected but it is really difficult to tell the It certainly did not provide a harsh ride afterward. Due to the intended use of the vehicle for mainly towing, it was imperative that the ride height hold up to the weight of the trailer tongue better than the stock.
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