Bilstein 24-141727 24-141734 Pair of Front and Rear 4600 Series Shock Absorbers for 07-17 Jeep Wrangler and 2018 Wrangler JK
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I am not sure how I measured my weight
This is likely to be the case. This is the best shocks I've ever used on my 2008 Jeep JK
It's kind of a general question, but most likely The model and year should be entered in the search The following is an overview of the model JK.
What do you mean, I put them on my 16-inch
Selected User Reviews For Bilstein 24-141727 24-141734 Pair of Front and Rear 4600 Series Shock Absorbers for 07-17 Jeep Wrangler and 2018 Wrangler JK
This is a simple installation. It took me a while to remove the wheels (one at a time) and clean You can slightly loosen up the shock bottom bracket using a vice grip before tightening it up completely. Once the new shock is in place, you just tighten them up again. To install the top bolts, you will need a 17mm, and the bottom bolts will require an 18mm. In just a few seconds, the top bolts of the rear can be removed with an impact driver with a 16mm bit. Taking my time, I cleaned the brakes and immediately examined the front end while the wheels were off. This took me about three hours to complete. I'm so glad to see this On the 255X75X17's, I mounted new tires and adjusted the Bilstein shocks accordingly. Once again, we are on a new ride! It rides and handles better than ever before. Do not hesitate to ask if you aren't Don't hesitate to purchase them! There is no better way to spend your time! Thank you for your visit.
A nut cannot be fastened due to not enough threads left over. Get Fox 2 if I could. I've installed it successfully and will do it next time. Even though its price is cheaper than Fox, I would end up buying Fox after installation. using the supplied washers and bushings, even before the frame is installed, the two shocks' nuts can't be attached due to the lack of threads on the washer and bushings. In order to install them in the front you have to use an alen key from the top so you have to be creative. The driver's side is easier since there is To get to the fuse box and battery tray on the passenger side, we had to cut away quite a bit of support structure. It is easy to install the back shocks. However, the rear shocks appear to be installed upsidedown with the protective cover installed on the bottom half. This is probably not a major issue for me since I adhere to mild trails, but it might be something to take into consideration. I have stock suspension and fenders on my JK. When I buy shocks agian for the JK, I will look for ones that install with two ends instead of just one so that they can be removed without being mutilated.
I chose them because I believe they are among the best shocks made and I hope this is true of even these In the rear, I have a 3/4" coil spring spacer, and in the front, I have a 1" spacer In the front, there is a shorter bump stop, but 3/4" in the back. The Bilstein shocks are roughly an inch longer center to center on the mounts when compared side by side, but I only did this with the rear shocks. One author pointed out that the rubber bushings on the front of the vehicle Although I thought about cutting the bushings down, I just used the old stock ones, which seemed to be in perfect condition and forced the nut to turn. From there, the rest was easy. Using my dremel, I removed a little bit of the battery tray to make access to the nut on the passenger side front easier. The webbing didn't touch the battery tray at all -- it wasn't big enough to cause any problem. As much as I had no idea the stock shocks could use some simple improvement or it was just wasting their life, pulling into the local convenience store was stable and I always cross the underground fuel filling "mounds," so I feel they are better than the stock shocks The sway and rock aren't repetitious but only twice. I love it. Even though I drive I notice how firm they are, but in a very positive Glad to hear that. A steering stabilizer from the 5100 series also arrived and I could not feel any difference, but I know deep inside it is doing a better job than the stock one as well as I do not have extremely.
It was easy to install, I used basic tools to do it myself. safety tip is to put the vehicle on axle stands and jack it up. Next, you need to jack the body, which will raise the car and allow for more shocks. As a result, there is less effort required to compress the shock when it is installed. It is recommended that both the axle and the body be propped after lifting. My body was about 2 years old when I got it I found it very easy to install because the ceiling was three inches higher. A bit tricky to install the front shock. The top bolt has to go on after the wheel has been put back on and the vehicle is lowered. When the vehicle weight compresses the bush on the top of the shock, you will be able to tighten the nut. I had cut the hex key on top to get it into the keyhole, but it still wasn't easy to get My efforts worked on one side, but my efforts on the other side failed. It's okay, I did what I was told not to do in the end, A piece of inner tube from a bicycle was used to protect the piston while I gripped it tightly. It is easy to use and a good amount of tension is provided. There is a way to remove the fender and liner, but that is a much more arduous process. The job took 45 minutes per shock, and with a few cups of tea and the abrasive cutting wheel on the hex key, it was completed. And the ride? It is amazing, a big improvement over stock, and they look special.
There is no point in giving instructions. It is not too difficult to install the back shocks, but the boots do not seem to be properly positioned as they are too compressed and sit way down on the bottom connections. A large enough threaded stem is not protruding from the top shocks to allow them to go through After taking the metal collar out of the boot, I used a drill press to drill it a little deeper and then flattened the bottom with a Having the collar sit deeper in the boot allowed the collar to support the piston to a greater depth, allowing a sufficient amount of threaded end to be exposed for the rubber bushings, washers, and nut to be installed. In my opinion, this should only be done if you are familiar with mechanical principles. I also had to grind down some plastic on the passenger side of the vehicle for the battery box (from inside the wheel well), as well as custom bend and cut an allen wrench to fit the top of the shock piston, which is necessary to keep the piston from rotating when you turn In comparison to the factory part that I replaced, this one is much more intelligently designed. However, they do have some advantages, for example, they perform much better than the originals that were replaced at 75,000 miles, even with the inconvenience of the installation. The ride was much more stable as a result, so rocking on bumps was reduced significantly.
These shocks were installed today on my 2008 Jeep Wrangler JK Rubicon, which had 114,000 miles on its original shocks ($225 labor). I think it is an understatement to say there was a noticeable difference. There is no more mushy, bumpy, rolling ride, and it now feels firm and responsive, like it used to! In addition to the Bilstein shocks, I installed the steering stabilizer as well. I highly recommend doing the steering stabilizer at the same time as Now that I'm driving my Jeep again, I've never felt better! Since I purchased this for the very first time, I can't speak to their longevity, but Bilstein has an excellent reputation.
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