MICTUNING LED Digital Double Voltmeter, Round Panel Voltage Monitor Blue for Car Pickup RV Truck Dual Battery Pack
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Questions & Answers
This unit is powered by the main Positive at the top. Because the auxiliary positive has no power, I ran a wire directly to it and used the ignition hot to control a relay that connected the main battery to the volt meter main positive, which I grounded into my switch panel negative buss.
I don't know because I'm unfamiliar with your Ausdin panel.
No, it isn't going to cause any issues. The voltage of each battery is measured by two (2) separate circuits. They read the same when the isolator has them connected (caharging) or when they are connected in parallel.
Yes, it is always on, but you can turn it on or off with a switch inline.
Selected User Reviews For MICTUNING LED Digital Double Voltmeter, Round Panel Voltage Monitor Blue for Car Pickup RV Truck Dual Battery Pack
This was purchased as part of my plans to redesign my camper shell's layout. I have a dual battery system with a readout in the cab, but because I spend the majority of my time in camp in the back of the truck, I needed a way to keep an eye on the batteries. The Mictuning double voltmeter is ideal for my requirements. I plugged it into a power supply at work that we use for testing, as you can see in the pictures, and the readout is bright and easy to read. It's also easy to put together. On the back, there are three terminals: two silver and one gold. Unlike most applications, the Gold terminal serves as a common ground for both your batteries or power sources. The positive lead from each battery or power source is connected to the two silver terminals. I tested the mictuning by connecting both positive terminals together and separately and comparing them to my Fluke 400a meter.
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In the negative reviews, I'm seeing two common themes: 1) Main worked, Aux didn'tbr>The main must be connected for the Aux to work. br>Connect the main battery to the main batterybr>Connect the Aux battery to the Aux batterybr>Connect the - battery to the - batterybr>Connect the - battery to the - batterybr>Connect the - battery to the - batterybr>Connect the - battery to the - batterybr>Connect the - battery to a point of convergence br>It's simple to figure out which terminal is for the Main; it's the one on top, just like the Main read out. br>Aux is designated as the middle ground - br>br>The other issue is that the meter stays lit all the time. br>Use an Add A Circuit to run your Main wire through an ignition on wire at the fuse box. Alternatively, you could use the Main wire to run an On/Off switch. br>I'm still undecided.
The display is difficult to read in bright light, as others have pointed out. With the sun roof open, your center console may be as large as your center console. Because this device measures voltage rather than current, any wire can be used to connect it; I used some leftover CAT 5 cable. I wanted it to be off when the ignition was turned off, so I connected a relay to the ignition switch and used it to turn on and off the ground connection - Both displays can be turned on and off at the same time. [To do this, you can use any type of switch to make or break ground. [It's a cinch to use - When the battery isolator activates and charges the aux battery, I can see it.
This isn't entirely correct. When connected to the same power source, the two displays do not display the same information. The number zero is read by one. One is a volt low, while the other is a volt high. Low voltage of three volts.
There was no voltage drop when I used 10 gauge wire and connected it directly to the battery. A voltage meter at the battery gave the same reading as the installed meter. It is dead on accurate in my tests. br>br>Another advantage was that I used an unused cigarette lighter cutout and it fit perfectly, eliminating the need to drill a hole for it. (Tradesman, 2012 Ram 1500) I needed a way to keep an eye on the voltage of my main and auxiliary batteries so they didn't get too low from all the accessories I use when the car isn't running.
In my boat, it worked perfectly for two batteries. It's a little concerning that there isn't an on/off switch. In the sun, it's difficult to read the numbers, and it's even more difficult to screen enough to get the reading. Aside from that, it's a useful status checker. It paid for itself by saving me a fishing trip because I discovered one of my charger wires was loose and fixed it based on the lower than normal reading on this voltmeter.
In my ATV, I use it to check the voltages of the primary and winch/accessory batteries, which are separated by a battery isolator. Nothing will be visible unless the master battery is connected. Even the second battery couldn't help. In order to see the second battery, the master battery must be connected. At first, I thought this was a bad idea, but it turns out to be a fantastic design. If you connect it directly to a battery to measure the voltage, it will be on all of the time, draining the battery over time when not in use, so you'll need to use a relay controlled by key on power. Because the master battery connection is the one that drives the display, only one relay is required to prevent the batteries from being drained. You'd have to use two relays if both indicators were completely independent. Also, if you're using different types/sizes/ages of batteries, don't connect them without a battery isolator, or the bad one will drain the good one, and having a dual output without one won't help much.
Over 48 volts, it doesn't register! It claims to display up to 60 volts, but I connected it to a 48 volt golf cart (which is currently at 51 volts when fully charged) and it only shows three dashes. It worked fine at 38v (three 12v batteries in series), so I'm pretty sure it only works up to 48v. I'm double-checking with mictuning to make sure. But if this is the case, the product description should be updated, and I'll be returning this to Amazon because the only reason I bought it was because it was supposed to work/display at 60 volts.