AC Current Voltage Power Energy Frequency Power Factor Communication Module Meter 100A Ammeter Voltmeter Multimeter with RS485 USB Interface and Split Core Current
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Note: This question appears on Amazon for products that do not support Modbus. PZEM- PZEM-014/016 is the module you need for a PC-only interface. 022 is only to be used for demonstration purposes.
1 What brycen says about the 240V split phase service in the United States, which uses two 120V circuits. I wrapped the coil around one of the hot legs and connected each hot leg to the meter's load terminals. All of the calculations were correct. amps, watts, volts, hertz, total power used, and power factor are all units of measurement. This meter is being used to track the amount of power delivered to a heating element in a brew kettle, which is powered by a Blichmann power controller. If you're going to use this for something similar, connect the meter to the circuit before the power controller. I wired it after the controller at first, which led to inaccurate readings.
Yes, I have one in the United States that runs on 240 volts. It has been working for over a year now, with two hot wires, one to the terminal marked hot and the other to the terminal marked neutral.
It can handle the voltage, so as long as the CT fits, it should be fine; I had to use two of them due to the CT diameter being too small. It worked perfectly with one for each 120v.
Selected User Reviews For AC Current Voltage Power Energy Frequency Power Factor Communication Module Meter 100A Ammeter Voltmeter Multimeter with RS485 USB Interface and Split Core Current
It seems to work (so far), but the instructions are unclear and incomplete. So that I could read loads on my 6500W emergency generator, I mounted the display to a manual service disconnect box. br>br>The screen is a little washed out. The pictures aren't nearly as clear or readable as they claim to be. To see the numbers, you must be close and at the proper viewing angle. The plastic clips that hold the unit in place are extremely fragile! That's about all I have to say about the product because I haven't tested the display's functions under generator load. The display was powered by my house panel (via a separate "emergency generator" breaker that I normally keep OPEN), and the manual service disconnect was also OPEN, so there was no load in the photo I took. As a result, the display reads 245 volts but 0 amps. br>br>The instructions were written (or translated) by someone who, according to the instructions, speaks English as a fifth language. Very short and lacking in all but the most rudimentary safety precautions. Turn off all power to the lines you're going to install this unit on for the sake of safety. Also, use a meter to double-check that you're power-free. br>br>Despite the fact that the unit is rated for 260V, the instructions assume that you will be using a two-conductor wire (black for hot, white for neutral) as the power source, regardless of your voltage. In the United States, however, 240V power is provided by a three-conductor wire (black = hot, red = hot, and white = neutral). Each "hot" carries 120V in relation to neutral, resulting in a total of 240V between the two "hots. " So. When using a three-conductor circuit to connect this display to 240V power. You leave out the neutral connection and run both hots (black and red) to the display instead of a hot and neutral (black and white) as you would with standard 120V wiring. a hot wire to each of the display's two power terminals That's ONE hot wire to EACH power terminal once more. DANGER! br>br> If you're using three-conductor wire to wire for 240V, DO NOT connect both hot wires to one terminal, assuming that you'll get 240V by connecting the two wires together or that you'll need the other terminal for a neutral connection. There will be a short if the two hots are joined!! There was also a bright flash of light, as well as likely trip breakers. It could melt wires, fry the display, or cause a lot of other problems at the very least. If you don't know much about electricity or haven't worked with it before, seek professional help.
If you only need to measure up to 5 amps, this one is fine. Take your time to read the description. The CTs have a 100-amp rating. However, the readout is limited to a maximum of five. I had to come back because I needed to make a model that showed 99. 9 Amps. Regardless, it's a good product.
This meter did exactly what I wanted it to do. The setup was straightforward (I plugged it into the outlet that supplies power to my Trotec Speeedy500 Laser). Split- It was much better to use a core transformer. I'm not sure what other reviewers meant when they said it could only show current values up to 5A. Instantaneous current readings of more than 7A (at 120V) were displayed on my unit. When the "Wh" field contains values greater than 1000, the field automatically changes to "kWh. " It claims to be able to store up to 999 different pieces of information. 9kWh.
I ordered one to try it out, and it seemed to work fine, so I ordered more. The seller, on the other hand, provides a simple program for reading and setting the device address of one device. You can either buy a program or write your own if you want to read multiple devices. I tried a few "try before you buy" programs, but none of them worked for me, so I decided to write my own. I'd never written a python program before, but I decided to give it a shot because the open source library I found was written in Python. Although my program reads values from multiple devices and displays them in my shell session, it appears to be too slow. I'll be looking for better software to read the data and store it in a database so that I can later draw graphs, etc. I'd like to put one of these on each of my home circuits and then draw graphs to see when and where energy is being used. Finally, I used an unused pair of my phone line that runs to every room of my house to carry data from the two units in my circuit breaker panel to any room of my house where I can plug the usb adapter into that pair of the phone line, and I'll see how well my methods of connecting multiple devices work once the other units that I ordered arrive. With just two, it's working great for me, and I'd recommend it to anyone who enjoys writing their own programs to use energy data.
Others have done a good job of covering the fundamentals. I'll mention that it looks great in the "LeMotech ABS Plastic Dustproof Waterproof IP65 Junction Box Universal Electrical Project Enclosure White 5. 9" x 4. 3" x 2. 8"(150mmx110mmx70mm)"br>br>8"(150mmx110mmx70mm)"br>br>8"(150mmx110mmx70mm.
Humans are amazing; to invent such a small device that can store so much information and do so with such precision is a marvel to behold. It's well worth the money, and the coil can be hinged open to prevent any wires from being disconnected. Yes, if you think you'll need to keep an eye on any equipment, I'd recommend it.
After removing my old meters, it was a simple task to replace them in my current generator panel. I'm going to buy two more to add to the 200Amp house service so I can keep track of how much power is being used throughout the house.
I attempted to extend them, but this would change the current reading. The current reading is cut in half by simply extending to twice the length. Although there is a fine tuning button, it only alters the reading by one count. So, to go from a 400 Watt readout to a 1100 Watt readout, I'd have to push it 1000 times.
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