Pertronix 8CYL FORD IGNI
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Most likely not, it is for an autolite distributor on a 391 model. It's great to have good online tech support with Pertronix my question was answered promptly. The best thing to do is to ask
It is applicable to the Ford 409 of 1970 as well as the Ignitor #1281. The CBS Performance of Gary*br>1- Contact us at This is 685-700
The only wires you need are those on the wall. The coils go to both of them.
That should be the case. The distributor determines the price.
Selected User Reviews For Pertronix 8CYL FORD IGNI
I was unable to turn my ignition key on today because my Pertronix 1281 Ignitor had died. It was easy to follow the directions and I double checked my work when I installed it. As a result, I mailed the igniter back to Pertronix and they refused to honor the warranty, claiming I installed it incorrectly or left my ignition key on for The first and second did not occur. My support staff said I need to get an RMA number from them before I mail the Ignitor back, but that doesn't appear to be mentioned in the product instructions that came with the Ignitor. During my conversation with the warranty rep at their office, I was instructed to read the three sentences under the sentence I mentioned to him that my assumption was correct since nowhere in the document was it stated that an RMA number would be needed. I was offered another ignitor for $62 if I wanted one. I refused to accept $00, which was given to me. After that, they asked me if I wanted the igniter to be returned to me. The auto repair shop tried obtaining another Pertronix ignitor from NAPA and installed it in my car after it was tow to them. Having popped off the distributor cap at the repair shop and seeing that they had installed the new Pertronix ignitor exactly as I had done, I decided to let them go ahead and install it myself. It takes just 2 wires to connect the ignitor, one red and one black, so installing it is easy. The fact that a company that has sold roughly 3 million ignitors will not honor its own warranty is very disappointing. A sad day.
Thank you for the purchase! I am extremely happy with it. A safe and easy way to install, for a 1971 F-body Suppliers and distributors for Stock 360. My first step was to get behind the dash and cut the resistor wire and splice a new one on If you are running a stock application you will need the pink wire as a ballast/resistor wire. Although you can connect to it, it brings up nine errors To the coil, 10 volts are applied. In my case, I have maybe 2" of original and good copper left from the coil to the end, giving me 13-1/2" of copper There are 14 volts in the battery.
After I saw this I decided to give it a try instead of buying a dwell meter so I could adjust my points on my 1965 Ford Mustang. A few people have reported that they were just able to use the factory wiring (pink resistor wire) that is connected to the coil on the + side. The problem with mine is that it had numerous misses so it would not work as intended. My test involved hooking an alligator clip to the positive side of the battery for 12V and starting the car to see if there was a difference. In addition to running smoother, it idled at a higher rate. Then I ran a 16 gauge wire by the ignition switch before the pink wire. When I started the engine, my idle was still higher, so I had to adjust my idle screw as far as it would go. My throttle linkage will need to be adjusted in order to achieve a proper idle. As my engine is a stock one, I will also have to check my timing to ensure it is at around 8 degrees.
A 1974 F750 with a 391 has been given to me. As a result, I was concerned they would send me a unit that I was very thankful for the tech's help and he made sure the product was right for my Installation of the receptacle was simple, whereas replacing the points was difficult. Using a standard rotor and cap is all that is required. Upon activation, it fired right up and ran much more smoothly. High-energy ignitions exist, but I chose this for my truck because it was easy, economical, reliable, and performs better than standard ignitions. This is a five-star movie for me, a very rare occasion.
The installation of this part was carried out by my husband on his '68 Ford Fairlane Although he has had two previous Petronix Ignitors fail on the same truck, this one is rated 100. was supposed to guarantee one, but the other has been out of warranty since about 12 months ago. After two failures, he is not convinced of the quality of the Petronix. At least the truck starts easier and runs better with it.
We do not need to "re-" There is some "adjusting" of the gap that is required. We bought a '73 Mustang with the After putting this into the console as directed, I clicked the key and it started and ran flawlessly. We do not need to "re-" There is some "adjusting" of the gap that is required. It is very easy to follow the instructions. Furthermore, there are a few good YouTube videos demonstrating the It means I don't have to worry about setting points, dwelling time, etc. It should last forever now.
In addition to installation of Pertronix ignitors, I make electronic ignitions for various A conversion from points to an "electronic" ignition system makes them easier to maintain, as well as better in terms of I take a total of 30 minutes to not only remove the old coil and system, but also install the new systems. The old stuff is always stored in a box in the vehicle in case there is a problem with the Pertronix system. I have never had any problems with my system so far.
I have been putting off for a few months. As far as I can tell, it works great. There is one on my 68 Ford Ranchero with a 302 engine. It had a lot of problems with its carburetor, and it had to be rebuilt. In addition I had to replace my distributor, so I switched to this electronic ignition instead. Since i am not a mechanic, I am not able to comment on its running, but it seems to be quite snappy.