Mr. Gasket 77 Exhaust Gasket Performance Material
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That was a long time ago, don't you think? I think I still have some, but they're hard to come by. I'm not sure if it was 1/16", but it had to be less than that. 2" thick.
It was used to connect a catalytic converter to an exhaust manifold. If it's for a pressure-sensitive application, I wouldn't double it. The gasket sealer will blow out, causing the leak to occur. If the gasket is properly sealed, it should hold with just one layer of sealant.
It can withstand heat (in degrees), but not voltage (120 volts).
This was bought to replace a gasket on a pellet stove combustion fan. It's been great so far. I wouldn't be concerned about using it for your application because it was designed to withstand the exhaust temperatures of a car engine.
Selected User Reviews For Mr. Gasket 77 Exhaust Gasket Performance Material
My 1983 Imperial has recently been resurrected. The air injection tube, which feeds air from the air pump to the backs of both exhaust manifolds, was one of the issues that needed to be addressed. The original tube had burnt out and was unable to be repaired. And there aren't any replacements to be found. I mentioned the problem at dinner after years of searching, and my brother-in-law-in-law-in-law-in-law-in-law-in- Pete, my brother-in-law, offered to make a stainless steel version for me. The stainless tube fit perfectly, but the OEM style thin paper-thin paper-thin paper-thin paper-thin paper-thin paper-thin paper-thin paper-thin paper-thin paper-thin Gaskets, for example, kept leaking and burning out. I then realized I'd made a mistake by using stainless steel for the new tube. The difference in expansion coefficients between the stainless tube and the cast iron manifold was causing issues. A thicker gasket was required for my application. br>br>Ordered this product, cut two new gaskets, and reinstalled the air injection tube, using my last OEM gasket as a template. The OEM style gaskets used to only last a few days. This material's gaskets haven't failed or leaked yet. This works well, even on the exhaust manifold, if you need to make your own gaskets that require a thicker and more resilient material. It's something I'd strongly advise you to try.
It appeared to seal properly at first, but as time went on, it became increasingly difficult to do so. 'I'm sorry, but I'm unable to comment. ' I'd like to offer some advice here: this stuff isn't easy to cut to shape, at least not the smaller O-rings. Because the metal mesh sandwiched inside is so much tougher than the relatively flaky composite, the composite breaks up before the mesh can be cut. I've discovered a very effective method. I used an electronic nibbling tool designed to remove different shapes from electronic chassis and covers. It simply 'bites' away at the pieces. I also believe that an abrasive bit, such as a diamond bit in a rotary tool, would be effective. Several attempts to use a spade bit, router, or snips failed, and the material was ruined as a result. I tried using a cold chisel and ruined the piece as well. I had no trouble smoothing the outer edges of an O-ring with abrasion that wouldn't grab, or with a nibbler that provided a kind of anvil to back it up and snap off a piece. I was able to grind a ring-shaped piece on a bench grinder by keeping the edge parallel to the wheel's rotation. When used sideways, it tended to rip the composite apart in large chunks. The stuff saved my life because the gasket I needed was unavailable and would have cost a lot more anyway.
The composite gaskets that came with my Headman Hedders blew out on startup, so I went this route. Because the material does not bend well without cracking, cutting it was a bit of a pain. The best advice is to be cautious and take it slowly. You'll need a sharp knife and a cutting board that can withstand some force. It is best to use a punch for bolt holes. br>I used a lot of permatex copper sealant on these, and they've held up beautifully.
I used this on an old John Deere snowblower that had been missing the muffler gasket for years. br>I completed all of the work over the summer and only had to use the blower once since the rebuild. Something didn't SOUND right, so I assumed I had another problem. Then I realized it was because there was no SOUND, so I sealed it up perfectly, and it now runs MUCH quieter.
I needed a gasket for a muffler on my weed wacker and couldn't find one, so I made one. Make a drawing or template, check to see if it meets your requirements, then trace it in gasket material and cut it out. With the extremely high exhaust heat, I used some gasket cement, which worked perfectly. I'm afraid I don't have a photo of it, but it worked flawlessly.
It compressed, allowing the bolts to loosen and back off, and I used it to make a gasket between the turbo and the exhaust downpipe. It was brittle as a result of the heat. The gasket blew out in several pieces when the bolts came loose, causing a massive exhaust leak. There was no metal reinforcement that I could see.
It was used as a manifold for the exhaust. After about a month and a half, the material began to crack and leak. It was a pain to install, so having to pull my motor out again to get to the leaking spot is frustrating. However, I used it on a thermostat housing, and it worked perfectly.
I needed a gasket for my DPF filter, and the OEM cost $69, with knockoffs costing around $30. I bought it, traced the pattern, cut it out, and ended up with enough to make two of them for the price.
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