Beckett CB151UL 115 Volt Condensate Pump
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It does, in fact - a two- The connection is made with a wire (also known as a "pig tail"). As far as I can tell, this isn't depicted in the photo.
The Beckett Corporation in Irving, Texas, is where I believe the pump was made. You can confirm this by calling them at 1-888-888-888-888 or sending an email to [email protected]. 888- 232- 5388, or by emailing them at www. beckettpumps is a term used to describe a group of people who work com.
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Ours drains outside after traveling about 8 feet up and 20 feet across. I'm sure 40' would suffice, but I've never tried it.
I yanked the pump away from the motor shaft with my bare hands. It's only a matter of friction. The check valve is difficult to clean and is not replaceable because the pump and check valve are a single unit. I devised a method for squirting hot water through the pump and out the check valve using a garden hose. It's been 18 years since my unit was built. In the future, I'll put vinegar in the unit (or completely empty it) for the winter months.
Selected User Reviews For Beckett CB151UL 115 Volt Condensate Pump
Simple to set up. By doing it myself, I was able to save money. This was purchased to replace a Beckett CB151LSUL that I had previously owned. The previous one had a ten-year life span. This new one, hopefully, will last another ten years. My old unit lacked the extra two blue wires that are supposed to be connected to the HVAC system to shut it down if the pump fails. The extra wires are included in this new unit. I'm not sure how these wires should be connected. It appears to be very simple, based on what I've read on the Internet, but I'm hesitant to try it myself. I'm not an expert in the field of air conditioning or heating. These two wires, fortunately, aren't required. They don't need to be linked in any way. I don't mind if the water spills on the floor because my HVAC is in the basement. I installed a leak sensor next to the pump, which should alert me if this occurs. Someone had linked the two blue wires to a leak sensor, according to one of the comments. I looked at the wiring inside the pump, and it appears that changing the overflow switch from an NC to an NO circuit is fairly simple. I'm thinking about doing the same thing as this guy. For the time being, I'll make due with what I've got.
The pump motor housing gave off a very strong, horrible chemical odor when I first opened the box. So I let the pump air out in the sun for a few days, but the chemical odor lingered. If we left the pump in a room, the noxious odor would fill the air. caused us a lot of pain We were thrown off. So Amazon gave us permission to return the item. Made in China, with "OEM parts" mentioned in the description - As a result, I'm curious if this is a knock-on effect. off of Beckett pumps, which have previously performed admirably for us. I had already placed an order for the Beckett CB201UL. There were no odors like that.
I completed all of the steps, and the pump filled with water, but it did not pump. There was no mention of setting or moving the float in the instructions. The pump started splashing my face as I removed the drain hose and moved the pump around. I unplugged it right away and reconnected the hose. You should check the float before installing it because it was probably stuck. The safety switch works well once it's up and running, and the pump easily pumps it up to ten times its original volume. Our house is 12 feet vertically and out of the way. I will say that this pump is VERY QUIET, which is a nice feature, and I would recommend it.
(It was already installed when I moved in)br>br>I buy a new one, and it lasts 6 DAYS, probably less because the amount of water that has soaked into the drywall and all over the basement indicates that it probably failed around day 4. br>br>Power is being supplied to the pump, and the float is not stuck in any way. I soaked up 5 bath towels to measure how much water I have in my basement due to the waist water caused by a reverse osmosis system (and now I am out of bath towels)br>br>all of the above is still true, I got an additional 10 gallons out of the shop vac in total. Having said that, they did get a replacement pump to me in three days, so I gave them a few more stars. I'm not sure if they make their own switches or buy them from somewhere, but what you had before was a lot better. I switched back to my old pump and am not going to open this new one. Now that I've fixed the problem with it, the old ones are working perfectly.
I purchased this to replace an older (faulty) unit that came with my gas furnace about 6 years ago. The heating company charged me $150 for the unit, so it was great to find it on Amazon for a third of that price. Note: You'll need to manually crimp two electric leads to the furnace's existing wiring. This was simple to do (I had a few wire couplings), but keep in mind that you'll need to do that one simple bit of wiring to connect the unit to your furnace. This was something I anticipated when I placed my order for the unit. It's been working great so far!.
This Becket CB151UL is a Form Fit Function replacement for a 17-year-old Becket CB151SUL, which served us well in the summer by removing condensate from two adjacent HVAC systems and in the winter by pumping off residual water from two Aprilaire humidifiers. The tank eventually overflowed because the rate of water from the humidifiers exceeded the pump's capacity. This slightly different model includes a safety switch, which is simply a NC (normally closed) micro switch attached to an independent float that is designed to be wired into the low voltage signal from the thermostat to the air handler (note the lack of the 'S'). The theory is that if the tank fills due to a pump failure or obstruction, the HVAC can be turned off, preventing the production of additional condensate and a potentially disastrous flood. Fortunately, the NC switch can easily be converted to a NO switch, which I then wired in parallel with a flood alarm (such as the Glentronics BWD-100). HWA (which I purchased from Amazon previously). This unit appears to be nearly identical to the one it replaces, so I'm hoping to get a similar amount of use out of it.
This was a replacement for a Beckett AC condensate pump that had been in service for more than 20 years before failing. I had to make some changes to the unit in order for it to work with the existing copper tube. Because I didn't want to use the hose barb on the newer units, I reused the check valve from the old unit. I could have used the newer check valve that came with the pump by cutting off the hose barb and getting a 1/4 in male NPT adaptor, but I already had 1/4 in FNPT adapters. It functions perfectly. br>However, there are two issues: (1) the new unit is much noisier than the old Beckett pump, which is no longer manufactured, so I had to set it up on a brick (2) the new unit is much shallower than the old Beckett pump, which is no longer manufactured.
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