K&N PF-1200 Fuel Filter
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Questions & Answers
The letter K stands for N PF- The Honda Prelude from 1992 is not compatible with the 1200 Fuel Filter.
Yes, the letter K. N PE- Everything shown in the photo is included with the 1200.
I'd like to use the phrase "flow through." However, I am not confident in my husband's ability to handle this. I'm sorry, but I'm unable to assist you.
It should fit perfectly on my Honda Civic EX from 1999. You'll need the exact size wrench, which I believe is a 19mm and a 17mm. " Turn off the car and put the keys in the ignition so it doesn't start. First, loosen the fuel line bolts, then place a thick rag directly under the filter. The fuel that strains out will be caught there. Make sure you have a wrench on the filter and the line; if you don't, you'll break something. After that, remove the lines and the bolt. Then remove the old filter by unscrewing the retainer strap with a 10mm screwdriver. Remove the old one and replace it with a fresh one. Make sure the flat compression washers are in between both sides of the fuel line being bolted on when using the bolt on top fuel line. It will leak if you do not do so. Tighten them up a little, but not too much. Then you're finished. Turn the car on and wait 30 seconds for the fuel pump to fill up the filer. Then get started.
Selected User Reviews For K&N PF-1200 Fuel Filter
My car is an Integra GS from the year 2000. I felt compelled to share this because I encountered a minor snag. br>br>This filter appears to be OEM. It is relatively simple to set up. Simply release the pressure in your fuel line (open the gas cap, unplug the fuel pump fuse, and turn the key to ignition; otherwise, it will stall). br>br>I'm not going to go over the rest of the setup because there are dozens of videos on YouTube. The problem with this filter on Integras is that the U groove where the fuel line neck sits in is TOO small! br>br>Manhandling the fuel line into the groove was mentioned by a few people. That is not something I would recommend. It's not going to sit flush with the rest of the table. br>br>Here's my advice: tape the opening into the filter VERY well so nothing gets inside, then file down the inside of the U groove with a metal file. The fuel line neck is approximately 8mm in diameter, according to my measurements. The fuel line will sit nicely in the groove once you've finished that. br>br>*I used a paint pen to cover the now exposed bare metal as an extra layer of protection against rust. I forgot to mention that I caught the metal shavings with masking tape.
br>In terms of performance, my car appears to have more power and is smoother to drive. I removed a stock fuel filter that had been in use for 18 years. Yikes! br>br>I'd buy this filter again, but I'd file the U groove first before installing it next time.
Pros: After the installation, the car idled more smoothly and had better acceleration. br>br>Contrary to popular belief, there are a number of disadvantages to using this product. It was a PITA to set up! The groove in which the fuel line's neck rests was far too small! br>br>You have to push it in and force it. I couldn't get it to sit all the way down even then. I had to just thread the fuel line bolt in and hope I didn't strip the threads on the fuel filter or the fuel line bolt. br>br>As a result, there was a slow leak after the installation, requiring me to tighten the top fuel line bolt beyond the manufacturers recommended torque specs. br>br>Get an OEM Honda fuel filter as soon as possible. It was what I had on the car before the crappy aftermarket one, and it went on without a hitch.
On a Honda Civic Ex from the year 1999. I noticed an immediate improvement in performance after replacing the 20-year-old Honda OEM filter with this one. Install was simple, with no issues, including none with the fuel line retaining U-shaped bracket on the top, which has been reported by others with other Honda/Acura models. Filter was delivered in a K bag. Three crush washers, two 12mm and one 6mm, are included in the N box. Because there was no washer installed with the old filter and 6mm was too small, I didn't use the 6mm washer, which I assume was meant for the inlet line with the flared end. Because I didn't use the 6mm washer, I haven't had any leaks. Overall, I'm very impressed, and I'll keep this review updated if I run into any problems.
So, similar to many of the other comments, I had to file down the prongs to make it fit. In addition, the supplied washers are significantly larger than the originals, and they are not copper. I've been having issues with my CRV starting and wanting to stall out. At first, I thought it was because of the new fuel filter clogging the injectors, but now I'm thinking it's because the washers are misaligning the ports due to the size difference. After they're replaced, I'll post an update. My recommendation is to use a different filter; not only are these from 2018 (which shouldn't be an issue), but the additional steps aren't worth it. I thought I was getting a good deal, but now I'm going to have to spend more time figuring out what went wrong and how to fix it, and I'm probably going to have to buy another filter.
To be installed on a 97 Civic EX, this product required some modifications. If a product claims to fit your car, it shouldn't require any modifications. It was necessary for me to take an open-ended test. With a few pounds of hammer, pry the fuel line mount apart with the end wrench. Another commenter mentioned that the mounting prongs needed to be trimmed. I simply expected them to bend, which they did. Even so, it appeared to be TOO snug, and I wondered if it would leak. I won't be returning it because there are no leaks. K& To make it work, N should either change their recommended vehicles list or spread the fuel line mounting prong a little wider. From a "performance" parts manufacturer, this is unacceptably bad.
I recently replaced the original 21-year-old with a new 21-year-old. On my 1999 Civic EX 4-, I had an old filter. I would have given it five stars if the steel tabs supporting the fuel hose fitting and banjo bolt weren't too narrow. br>br>I simply covered the outlet side of the filter with a piece of tape (you don't want steel filings in your new filter, do you?). ) and spread them out a little more. Everything went smoothly. br>br>I recommend this filter; all you need is a file to customize it. br>br>A few pointers for installation: br>br>Remove the battery and place it in a safe place. It gives you a little more room to work and keeps your car from catching fire. br>br>When installing the filter, place it in the support outside the car and loosely attach the clamp and bolt. br>br>Next, take the entire assembly to the car and start the lower fuel line by hand, making sure it is finger tight. br>br>After that, tighten the filter clamp and bolt the bracket back to the firewall. Tighten the lower line, and install the outlet hose and banjo bolt with the two new large washers, while supporting the filter with appropriate wrenches that fit the upper and lower hexes built into it. br>br>Install the battery again. br>br>Priming the filter and checking for leaks requires turning the ignition key to the position before cranking a few times. br>br>Start the car and get a beer or something cold to drink. br>br>Wait, what do you mean? br>br>Wait, what do you mean? The filter is finished in a sheer black color. br>br>.
I thought it was a fantastic deal for a K. As a result, I purchased a N brand fuel filter. When I went to install it on my 1997 Honda Civic LX, I thought the top banjo bolt was broken, but it turned out that the "forked" pieces at the top were too close together, preventing the upper fuel line from seating properly. br>I gave it four stars because I had to gently bend those pieces apart to get my fuel line to fit properly. "Made in Mexico" was printed on the filter. It's possible that they use a different scale there. With FRAM filters, I've never had this issue.
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