Standard Motor Products DS-833 Instrumental Panel Dimmer Switch
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Parts for 1996 Chevrolet Caprice are not compatible with this model
There is no difference between the stock switch and this one
In the back of the big bucket truck, I used it on a GMC C7500. The same thing happened to me. I couldn't figure out if it fit my truck. I was able to wear it. You can see if it has flat blades where the plug is plugged in by pulling out the switch. There is a possibility that it will work. The way I guessed it was that way. Hope everything works out for you. The majority of these were also common to both Chevy and GMC when they were released
The part you are looking for is not compatible with 1992 Jeep Wrangler. Give us your vin number and we can see if we have one in stock at any of our 25 locations. 1stopautopartz is grateful for your business, thank you
Selected User Reviews For Standard Motor Products DS-833 Instrumental Panel Dimmer Switch
The truck I have is a 1990 Chevy K2500 with the five cylinder. There is very little use for the 7L motor, and it is never used at night. My battery is slowly drained over the course of weeks from something that slowly drains the battery. I would need a jump start for it to start. Finally, I got fed up with looking for the cause of the problem and installed a cutoff switch about 8 months ago The power grid was shut down to ensure nothing could get It is pretty dark at night in the boonies and I often thought I saw a light on in the truck when looking out of an upstairs window or tried to open a door, but I couldn't see anything so (usually) I assumed It was probably because of the angle I was at where I could see the most between each bucket seat and the door downstairs was blocking my view because things were I had to replace the dimmer and headlight switch on our car after it was hit last month. When we went shopping in the truck in the early morning and it was dark, I turned on the lights, but finally could see correctly so I replaced the dimmer and Apparently an other reviewer found that the dimmer may not completely turn off the dash lights, and I must have been wasting power because the lights are so dim they're barely visible, and I never thought to check this, since I thought the other switch cut power to it. I entered the garage while the car was in the shop and saw the dash lights did not completely shut down. Since I replaced both switches at the same time, I cannot say for certain which switch was the problem, but we no longer have to pop the hood to use the disconnect. Although I did not test it for shorts since I knew it was bad and that it was headed to the trash, I can therefore assume that because it has its own power supply for the dome/front floor lights, it must have been shorting into the gauges. Even though it was better late than never to have known this could have been a problem years ago. It made sense to do both switches as the truck was about 25 years old and buying them new would have been about the same cost. We had a much better chance of finding a dependable metal from a junk yard for the same amount of money. Keeping the mounting plate in good condition will make it last longer and they can break over time. However, if you break it, it's not terribly expensive. On the back of the bezel (the trim plate you have to remove to get at the switches) there are four screw studs where the trim plate screws into the back, and they are pretty fragile considering they are holding the switches that press inwards, and two of them broke. One I glued, but I drilled through the trim plate, and I glued a black small smooth head threaded stud through it with a nut on the back of the switch mounting plate so it wouldn't break if the screws failed. As for what I installed, I can see the head of it but the only other option is to buy a used bezel for about 80 dollars I swapped it out with a new one that looks like the previous switch, only cleaner. It also has the symbols on it in case I forget which switch is for parking or headlights. It's an easy job to do and it took me no time.
Pulling the fuse and driving home, I resolve the issue. As soon as I got home, I spent a lot of time messing with door jamb switches and believed that water could have seeped in around the third brake light/bed light. I searched online and found that there was a possibility that this switch could keep the lights on. As a result, the lights went out when I disconnected the old one.
Fortunately for me, Amazon's service is very quick, so I only had to drive around for two days without interior lights and radio (radio on the same circuit as interior lights? the dimmer switch is disconnected, there will be no instrument cluster lights, which is So far with only a few hours of use it is functioning just fine. Hopefully it continues to function as it is a bad design, if the switch failed it could cause the lights to turn on (like in my case) and if it were long enough it could drain your battery!.
We got the results we wanted! It was easy to replace and a good price. It was delivered quickly.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find a dimmer switch available for my 1986 Grand Wagoneer, but this one looked close, so I took a chance and ordered it. The hole was a little wider than I expected, but I still managed to work around it. The wiring harness has been reinstalled and operates the lights! It looks like it needs some work and is not entirely original, but it works.
GMC C7500 bucket truck from 2000. During testing, the part worked as expected.
In order to work on my Project Truck, I acquired this item. It was just to make sure it worked when I needed it.
There is a difference in height between the original and the modified wheel. However, it appears to be working.
This light cluster is a replacement for my old one. I am very pleased with it. The material is very strong.
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