GM Genuine Parts D808 Headlamp Dimmer Switch
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It is hard for me to say, since I don't make them. The fact that electric does not pass through plastic would imply that some of the parts are metal. I'd like to add my two cents. I have stated my opinion before, but it is my opinion. What is it that you want to know? Regards, David Thanks for answering my question
My 1968 Mustang was able to fit into it. The 65 T is something I'm not so sure about Nevertheless, I would guess that the switch was used on all Ford models made from mid to late 1960 through at least 1977.
A momentary switch cannot be used here. During switching from one circuit (low beam) to another (high beam), two different circuits are active. In order to use a horn, a momentary switch is required.
Having installed the light bar and the headlamp dimmer switch, I'm now ready to use the vehicle. I am very happy with the result! Make sure a relay is installed.
Selected User Reviews For GM Genuine Parts D808 Headlamp Dimmer Switch
My truck nearly rolled over after losing its headlights in the dark due to a cheap imitation part. It fell apart while driving at night, and it was not made of quality materials. Didn't realize I had been ripped off by Delco brand, so paid more for that. Buy this product at your own risk.
It fits right into place and is easy to use It's ready to go! In my 1969 Chevy C20 CustomCamper 3/4 Ton 350/TH400, the switches tend to get a lot of dust and grit on them from being on the floor and the floor vents in my truck are right over the switch, which stirs up even more dust. Switching to this new switch seemed like a good idea. I guess it was a little more made than I would have liked. It's the coolest thing ever that everything is made like a TANK but I installed it and it worked fantastically! To be honest, I ordered a second one to make sure I had one on hand, just like I do for most of my 69 pieces. My dimmers seem to have vanished from the wall for weeks, even months. When I was cleaning the carpet in the garage, I pushed the old dimmer switch by hand and it felt very stiff and gritty, so I ordered a new one, and that's how I ended up with a new one. The switch does exactly what I expect it to do and I am very happy with it since I only need it for limited scenarios. RAGENRAT / MARK.
When you don't have this bolted to the bottom so there is no front to back flex, and you always push straight down on it, the plastic connection between the metal housing and the cable will come apart. The lights will completely go out during this time, which is likely to be when switching beams at night. There is only a 1/4 inch clearance between the plastic piece and the metal with just a few tiny nubs holding it in. It is easily broken free by hand, which means the part is poorly designed for something that gets kicked, bumped, and stomped. In addition, it is definitely not identical to the switch I replaced in my Jeep that was an oem Delco switch.
I have had horrible problems with the switches in my 1979 Chevrolet Cobalt. Despite its shortcomings, however, this one is worth taking a look at. If you press down for high beams, it sometimes sticks, but if you press down for dim, it switches back to high beams without difficulty. The last switch I bought caused me to have problems when I drove at night, and when I do, I rarely drive at night anyway A nearby auto shop sold one to me and one to me. Flickering and going out of the light was always a common occurrence. Now that I have a new dimmer switch, I no longer experience this problem. Its primary function is to maintain a steady flow of power, and it does its job well.
A 1984 K5 Blazer was retrofitted with this system. I did not have to deal with any hardware issues moving the dimmer from the column to the floor. My pigtail set up is actually plug and play, but I had to cut it since it was too bulky to fit flush to the floor with the original I installed three female crimp fittings and two self-tapping metal screws, and now the floor dimmer is metal instead of plastic, as the factory fitted it. I also find this works great!.
I accidentally purchased the wrong plug in, but it is working well now. There are two variations to the plug in. The problem is no big deal if you are mechanically inclined or if you like to macgyver stuff just turned the prongs to align with the replacement connector. The only downside is that the rivet access on the product is on the picture, but other than that, the product works well. I haven't had to resort to turning the lights off in between clicking.
A headlight dimmer switch was added to my 1984 CJ7. I was able to hook it up and it worked as expected. After that, I drove in the dark on the first night. With my foot, I pushed the dimmer switch and it broke, so my lights went out and I had to drive in the dark. The car was able to be put back together so I could get home. Trying again because I crimped it more and the case of the switch isn't crimped enough.
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