POR-15 49519 Floor Pan and Trunk Restoration Kit
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Each of the three types of POR is included in this kit The 15 silver and gloss black are made of synthetic materials. The kit comes with one pint of chassis black top coat as well.
There is a large hole that needs to be repaired by this method
It is true. My battery pan was also done. If there is metal that is rusted, it will work there. Power mesh should be used if you need to seal through holes that have been rusted through.
Several holes had opened up in my 280z. I had to replace them. I was very pleased with the por15 floor pan kit, especially with the big hole measuring about 8 inches long and an inch wide. The other holes were quarter sizes and a few larger, like tennis ball size. I had to layer the metal mesh several times. The instructions must be followed. One layer should be done. A layer of metal mesh can be applied the next day. If your floor is still not solid, repeat until it is. There is a layer underneath and then a cap on each of the frame rails. This was the best result I've ever gotten.
Selected User Reviews For POR-15 49519 Floor Pan and Trunk Restoration Kit
I am very happy with it. I had found the vehicle (1966 Pontiac Lemans) off the road back in the early 1980s, a true barn find with 85,000 miles. Because the clutch slipped or the windshield leaked (or both), the car was stored. I found the floor to be rather solid after stripping it down to bare metal, with only a few pinholes emerging. Instead of installing a new floor, I could have replaced the existing one For only a few minor pinholes, it could not be justified. This kit covers all of the paint and prep products you'll need from start to finish. In an ideal world, there would have been more metal prep (just enough for my application) and less metal putty and A minor complaint since both of those items will be used for home and car projects in the future. You don't need to go into detail about all the tips/tricks here, as they are already covered elsewhere in this article. You will be fine if you watch a few videos (you tube) and use several forms before diving in fully. The results have been very good.
The contoured surfaces can be ignored. I bought 2 kits to patch the storage area on a Bronco 2. The surface is similar to the surface of a truck bed. There are peaks and valleys, approximately 1/4 inch deep in the valleys, followed by a 1 inch deep patch. It descends to a 1 inch peak before climbing to a 5 inch peak. This is a 5 inch wide valley, for example. Using the product, you spray a silver paint on to the floor, then place fiberglass matting on top of the wet paint. Once the paint has dried, you soak the mat with more You have to keep in mind that if you want to apply fiberglass fabric to a textured area, the paint won't adhere to it in the low spots. As you brush the paint in the next area, the paint continues to lift. You will notice that as soon as you finish soaking the fabric and attempt to press it into low areas, it will then lift upwards in the surrounding areas as well. It sounds like this would work well in a flat area, but the cars and trucks we are working on lack a good flat surface. In fact, in every vehicle I have ever owned there was not a nice flat area to work in. As far as the metal is concerned, it is crimped etc. The purpose of adding rigidity is to add structure. Providing the manufacturer with the ability to reduce weight. If you have any unevenness in your trunk or floorpan, do not use this product.
The purpose of this purchase was to protect frame rails from rust. The material is well suited to the purpose and lays down easily. With a brush as well as a sponge brush, I tried it. Small traditional brush works best The cost at Lowe's/HD is 89 cents each). It is easy to use and dries quickly after using a cleaner/degreaser. When rust is present, metal prep is the best way to remove it. With a wire wheel, I removed the loose rust, cleaned it and degreased it until it was clean, then applied metal prep and let it soak for 20 minutes It was followed by disinfection and cleaning for 30 minutes, followed by the application of base coat, which adhered well. If you follow the directions on the can, you won't have any problems. For the base coat, there is a direction to wait until the top coat feels tacky before applying the second one •Coatings (*2-°C The whole process takes about six In my case, it only took me 45 minutes, and thus far, it doesn't seem to be breaking. The can needs to be closed after each section is finished, since I am working in small sections at a time. Please take note It is extremely important to clean the lip of the can and the top before re-using it The sealing process. I know this because if you don't you will have the lid on all the time (ask me how I know that). In addition, the black base coat and the silver base coat come in both black and silver cans. It doesn't matter whether the topcoat goes on top of the base coat. I didn't realize this. The first coat of base coat was applied the night before, let dry overnight, and then the second coat was applied the next morning after scratching up the cure. As of yet, there has been no problem. I have treated and coated the sections of the frame and they look brand new.
It's really great what you did here. There were rust holes in my beloved Chevy Blazer K5 roof, tailgate, and door frames and I do not weld, and 89 Chevy Blazers and suburbans are scarce in junkyards around here, and body shops are outrageously expensive The slightest difference can make everyone feel better (especially women), so I figured I would do this There is, of course, a I brushed out the whole thing and exposed a bunch of other surface rusts and such, so I just scrubbed and brushed it. In the tailgate and door frame of the vehicle, there were several tiny rust holes My epoxy was too small, so I used the epoxy, which was really easy. My roof holes (holes) were fixed with fiberglass, and that worked wonderfully. Always read the instructions thoroughly before handling chemicals and wear the gloves whenever you're working with them. There is enough of this kit to fix a lot of rust problems in my home, so it made sense to get it. It is hard to remove the lids from the cans, and with so much force you may damage them, so I used glass jars for the rust preventatives. Nevertheless, rubber seals will be eaten, so make sure you put a layer of plastic over the top first. 5) After spritzing the Metal Prep, you can also cover the area with plastic so it stays wet for the 30 minutes it says it needs to.
It's an excellent product - highly recommended For treating my jeep trailer, which had a lot of surface oxidation, I got it from this company. This package should actually be called "Floor Pan OR Trunk Restoration" since I was only able to treat the undercarriage and inner fender wells of a trailer that measured 4x6. Despite following the coats recommended for the underside, I ran out of product when I attempted to paint the inside of the trailer, too. I was able to get a roll out of it no problem The inside of the trailer tub should be lined with bedliner product. If you like the metal prep product more, consider buying more of it - In our opinion, the kit does not have enough of it. Make sure to get some gauntlets too Gloves of the style you receive with the kit as opposed to the short wrist-length ones. The YouTube videos are provided on the website - follow the instructions. your results will provably be great.
The POR character Despite the fact that 15 is a great product, the kit still does NOT include enough material to complete a whole floor pan for restoration. That would be one thing if you were simply looking to apply a new finish to the floor, but the lack of phosphoric acid meant that your floor was not fully converted. I was pleasantly surprised by being able to find more than enough fiberglass (power mat) material and a degreaser! My opinion is that the kit should include half a gallon of metal prep (phosphoric acid) and a quart to a half gallon of silver and black paint. A RESTORE could be accomplished with a budget like that.
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