Dorman 419-602 Belt Tensioner Pulley

0L engine today, and I haven't heard it squeak anymore. A 0L V6 (Vulcan) engine that several reviewers said had a long life span, plus a reasonable price was what made me choose this model. My knowledge of installation procedure wasn't enough to determine the expected lifespan, but I thought I might provide some tips I discovered related to it. A longer version with some anecdotes is below. In other words, if you're a slow reader or in a hurry, you probably shouldn't read this. You might be able to save yourself some aggravation and find the confidence to do the job yourself if you have the time. You don't need any special skills to do the job, if you are You are likely to have two main problems (1) diagnosing the problem, so that you know you need an idler pulley, and (2) finding a way to release the belt tension on the tensioner pulley, so you can slide the belt on and off. After watching e-learning videos about belt squeals, I spent a lot of time trying to determine the problem. One by ChrisFix on YouTube was particularly useful to me. You can read it by clicking here "How to Fix a Squeaky Belt (find out where the squeak is coming from). " In 2014, when I studied this car for the first time, I heard a chirping noise, which I initially attributed to the belt. However, after more analysis after I got the car, I found it was unrelated to that In the end, it was the camshaft synchronizer that was malfunctioning. Those Tauruses are not the only ones who have this problem. The last time I heard a similar sound was several weeks ago, I thought it was a cheap, non-original song As my OEM replacement had gone bad, I had to buy a new one- This car gets about 400 miles a year, despite the fact that I drive it rarely. Regardless of the distance between the drive belt and the sound source, spraying the drive belt with water made the sound go away, so it had to be This Good Year Gatorback belt looked pretty good, and the previous owner's records indicated that it had fewer than 10,000 miles on it. - (The car has just 101k miles). In order to inspect the belt and find out more about the pulleys it passes over, I decided to remove it. There is a good chance that the tensioner or idler pulley is to blame. The first problem you have to solve when removing a belt is to get enough leverage on the 15mm wrench to pry the tensioner pulley towards the front of the car while you remove the belt from There is no way to use a normal-sized spoon As a result, you need a socket and extension handle since you are working in a narrow space between the crankshaft side of the engine and the wheel well. While a shallow socket will fit on top, you'll never be able to fit the handle on top. In addition, there are specialized tools, such as one from HarborFreight that sells for $18, but many reviewers have reported damage or failure from the first or second use. The one I had would serve me well enough, though I didn't want to spend the money on a better one. The video by Mike Green from 1AAuto, which shows easy steps for replacing the idler pulley, including replacing the belt and reinstalling it, was very helpful to me. The guy's got a lot of well thought-out and clear ideas The products he sells are accompanied by videos explaining how to install them. Even though I feel bad for using them to apply parts I purchased elsewhere (but not bad enough to avoid doing it), I guess I have to do it. In order to fix the tensioner on the motor, he uses the closed end of a 15mm combination wrench. In order to add leverage, he grabs a larger wrench while hooking it in. extremely strong, you don't need the extra leverage. But I'm 73 and nothing like that. attempts, I got Mike's method to work well enough that I could remove the belt.

Then I examined each pulley one by one. In terms of looseness, the power steering pump was by far the worst. End play was present (in the game A pendulum motion) of almost 1/8 of a turn Measured in inches. Google showed that this is normal, but I found several posts in the Taurus Club of America that said this was My next step was to look around We discovered that the idler pulley made an unusual grinding noise as it was spun. The power steering pump also had some end play, though not as much as the transmission. it seemed pretty obvious to me that the idler pulley was faulty. After removing the entire belt (after taking a photo to remember the routing), I started the engine and saw that there was no squealing at all, which told me that the problem lay in the drive belt area, and probably in the idler pulley as well. I was able to take off the pulley fairly There is just one bolt with a 16mm head that secures the bracket. Apparently, this is an OEM 6203-type bearing. I was about to order it when I saw a review by a guy who discovered that it was an OEM 6203-type bearing A couple of RS (17x40x12mm). In exchange for $3, he had the old bearing out and replaced it with a new one. My mind was intrigued, and I would also be able to reuse the original Ford pulley body, since it was in great shape. As I was using a 3 lb. punch to knock out the old bearing, it would not come out. As I tried to remove it with a hammer and a large 26mm socket, it would not come In order to use this socket, you'd need a 45mm-sized one There is a 5 inch screen. c) use the socket of a size no larger than 40 mm in order to hammer out the bearing while holding the pulley body. In the end, the cost of the oversized sockets or of a bearing press kit would be way more than the $15 Dorman replacement part. I overcame my cheap gene and purchased the $15 Dorman replacement part. However, now I would have to install it. As I mentioned in a previous review, I first compared it to the original Ford part, because I was concerned the belt would be wider than the OEM part, which one reviewer had also pointed out. However, I found this not to be true after receiving the part. It is the same on both surfaces A Ford replacement part measures 3/16 inches high by 1/4 inch wide. The old part may be a little heavier, but this replacement feels equally sturdy. It is impossible to predict what quality or lifespan of the bearing will be, and it is the only thing that will wear out again. As far as I can tell, there is plenty of grease in there, so I'm not really concerned, especially considering how little mileage I put on this car. *The bearing comes with a brass insert that goes inside the pressed in seal and sits between the seal and the engine portion of the engine casing. This part looked like it had an excellent appearance and had just the right thickness to prevent the idler pulley from touching the engine and to This part of it would make a nice bearing surface, since it is located inside the bearing and provides a neat axis for turning. Although I probably should have used it, I decided not to after reading some reviews by people who said it didn't work. In place of the odd-numbered elements, I just used the odd-numbered elements The washer that was on the original part is a steel washer with three teeth that bend into and grasp the mounting bolt. I am referring to the inner side of the idler pulley (closer to the engine). During this process, a conventional-sized pin is attached to the outer surface of the idler pulley. It is between the bolt head and the pulley that a washer is put. This is also something that I reused. The idler pulley easily fit into the slot. It took me less than a minute to tighten the bolt with my 3-1/2 inch ratchet and a 10-mm socket I held it for about an inch and a half until it was as firm as when I first removed it. In this case, I cannot see the need for a torque wrench. After that troublesome issue, the problem of rerouting the belt was solved. I discovered a routing diagram in my Chilton's manual that is far more readable than any photograph I could possibly try to It takes a while to figure out how to reroute the first time. My longer adjustable wood clamp is made of a steel shaft measuring 16 inches long. Following some frustration and a few false starts, I successfully routed the belt. After that annoyed tensioner release, we came to the annoying Using the 17mm wrench hooked into it for leverage instead of the 15mm combo wrench, I tried again. Your right arm should be used to manipulate the free end of the belt around the alternator as you move the left hand around the belt. I was able to remove it, I could not get it to go for It came off the bolt several times and landed on the underside and dropped there, but this is not the first time it has happened An engine protector for a car requires a magnetic pickup tool to be removed. As I got frustrated, I got more agitated. My Husky wrench seems to have a good sized offset, which might be the cause of my problem. Because of the narrow space between the tensioner bolt and the wheel well, the wrench ends up hitting the radiator overflow tank at the other end. (This had already begun to be removed earlier. However, after removing the two small hoses, I realized I would need to drain the larger hose at the bottom in order to get it The matter seemed too complicated to deal with. There was a problem with the wrench, I tried an old, cheap set of metric wrenches that I had since the 80s. This one had a less extensive offset, but the open end of this one, where you have to hook the wrench, is just too short to get a good When I saw the old pipe trick, I thought that would be a great way to get more There must be a piece of steel gas pipe somewhere that would fit, but I During my search, I came across a 20-cent ticket Copper pipe in the basement is 3/4 M long and 1 inch in diameter. It was too large and too soft, but I feared it would be too hard. (Plumbing pipes can be classified as K, L or M, with M being the thinnest wall). It worked, much to my surprise. Rather than having to use two pieces, I cut duct tape to attach the pipe to the 15mm wrench, so it worked like one. My fingernails were out of the way in case my improvised tool broke or bent. Even though my improvised tool bent a little, I was able to work the belt around the alternator. The annoying sound is gone-we hope for good. Started the car up again, and there's no sound at all. you have made it this far, I hope it has answered any of your questions. Good luck to the rest of you.

Gianna Barnett

| Nov 28, 2020

A 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 was purchased with this. The pulley and little sizing bushing are all that is included with it, just as shown in the image. Dorman's unit does not come with any of these items, which is why it earned three stars. The OEM unit has a clip and a spacer that are not in this In order to remove your original door, you will also need to remove the clip from the original one, since you will need to reuse the bolt and spacer as well. After putting the pulley back together, I found that it was able to "wobble" side to side. This wouldn't normally matter as the belt produces solely downward force, but I felt that this created an uneasiness with the pulley. It would have been less than 3 stars without the cheap price, but the 5 stars from the cheap price kept it on the list. As I installed the unit and verified that it was operating as it should, I began to wonder how the old OEM one was put together. It was quite a surprise to find out that it was just a standard 6203- based sensor The pulley is equipped with a 2RS bearing. Changing the OEM bearing was as easy as pulling out a bearing I kept on my desk (I keep one on hand to repair motorcycle and power tool bearings). An appropriate sized socket was used to get the old bearing out with a few whacks with a hammer. As I saw the original metal to metal configuration led to some rust between the surfaces, I installed the new one easily with the aid of some anti-seize. In my previous installation of the original part, I noticed that it had none of the wobble that this Dorman component does. The total cost for an actual repair of the OEM unit was three dollars and fifty cents (again, why Dorman's unit got low ratings). In the event that the OEM pulley gets damaged in some way, this Dorman pulley will be placed on the shelf for future use somewhere else or as a backup. You can install the bearing on the OEM that was originally defective by replacing the bearing on the OEM and reinstalling. If you have the ability to remove the old unit, remove the parts that can be reused and then reinstall, you can do so.

Oaklee Valdez

| Nov 07, 2020

What I received was not what was put in the pulley. The bearings in it are Chinese no name cheap bearings. The same bad product as the rest! Find something else to do.

Palmer WESTON

| Jun 14, 2021

The V6 engine is a 0L version. In place of my original 22-inch TV, I purchased this The year is It's part of the idler pulley on a 1997 Ford Ranger XLT. The V6 engine is a 0L version. There is no reason why the Dorman replacement pulley should be flanged like the original, but I cannot see any reason for them to be. The pros are I'm exasperated. Despite its thickness, the metal can handle the job at hand. I'm exasperated. In order to ensure square installation, the bearing must be I like how smooth it is and that the pulley doesn't sag. I'm exasperated. It didn't matter if the gold metal bushing was removable or not. As far as mounting bolts and washers are concerned, I was able to use the originals. I'm exasperated. For proper belt alignment, it sits out at the proper distance from the block. For my application, there is no need for any additional spacers. The cons are I'm exasperated. There have been none so far. I should note This is a standard 6203 bearing, which is found in the original factory pulley. I plan to keep the original pulley as a spare and replace the bearing with a new one since the original is still in great shape.

Alden Moody

| Mar 28, 2021

A brief update (2021/01/07) for Monday, January 21 With more than 25,000 miles on it and days of idle time, this pulley is still going strong! The plastic parts fit perfectly in my Lexus 2005 GX470. It is a little hesitant to purchase for the same reason that others are concerned F. E. ) reported that it would not fit without alterations. As a result, I did not experience any problems. For the short time I've owned it, it appears to be a quality product, and it's worked fine. However, only time will tell if it will continue to function as intended.

Emerie Santana

| Feb 23, 2021