Edelmann 8763 Power Steering Gear Box Pitman Shaft Seal Kit
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It should be sent back to Amazon
Look at the pictures of the ring parts. You should be able to figure out which part is which. You probably won't be able to fix that seal because the top ring is an O ring and that part is very hard to replace. There are 4 parts on the lower steering arm called the pittman arm, which have to be removed, that is quite difficult. In the upper 4 parts are the seals on the steering box. This is probably where the leak is located. You must first crack the nut on the pittman arm and then use a pittman arm puller to remove it. A tremendous amount of force has to be used in order to free it from the nail, as it is pressed on tightly. During one job, I used an Oxy Acetlylene torch to heat the puller up to help it expand, because it was bending and would not move. Taking a sledgehammer to it will make it crumble. Once it is off, however, it is an easy repair. You've got a lot of work to do. The cost of a rebuilt steering unit is not much better than purchasing a new one. After the warranty expires, they replace all the seals, but the gears are used and worn out from previous use in other vehicles, and eventually leak since the seals aren't tight anymore. You would have to pay a lot of money for a brand new steering unit that has not been rebuilt. You would also need to pay thousands for labor if you hired people If you want to avoid a costly car repair bill with a power steering fluid leak in your car, you are between a rock and a hard place. I've done that once. That's what she does, and she's still doing it.
Not sure I remember, I remember that I ordered at least four different kinds of kitts, then sent them away
Edelmann Complete Pitman Shaft Seal Kit # 8766 applies to your vehicle, not 8763, but the 8763 will not fit the 68 Chevelle.
Selected User Reviews For Edelmann 8763 Power Steering Gear Box Pitman Shaft Seal Kit
The pitman shaft seal by edelmann was finally installed today, and I am happy not to have a power steering leak anymore. However, be careful as there are some Dodge @ Jeep models that use the same kit you were using - the only difference is the location of the mounting points. If you are installing it, watch it as many times as you can before you do the installation On a scale of 1 to 10, it's about a 5.
It was a pain to get a steering box that fits my 1997 K1500 The steering column actually worked fine and I was able to save a bunch of money on remanufactured or new steering boxes since Chevy and Acdelco discontinued those items. It will take time to see if the seals hold up as well as they did at first. It was pretty stuck and the puller wouldn't get it. I carved a relief spot in the pitman arm with my angle grinder and tapped a chisel into it to crack the pitman arm, which made it easy for the puller to grab it. I used a 1 1/4" pvc pipe to be able to align the seal evenly as I tapped it in. A new ACDELO pitman arm was thrown in for $35 and we were done.
The seals and parts are OK, but the kit fails due to Plews/Edelmann's poor instructions and customer service. It is so sad, as this is a US company providing US jobs, but they failed. I almost gave up when the Plews tech support agent provided me with inaccurate instructions and misinformation about how to install this on a 2003 Tahoe 4x2. I actually believed I had been sold the wrong kit after I removed the pitman arm and pulled out the dust seal and a ton of grease and oil. It was expected that the snap ring would be visible once the dust boot was removed. Plews tech support provided instructions on how to do this. They said to install the tall seal first (the one with the plastic ring), then the second seal, the metal washer, and It's wrong - In my previous post I mentioned that I had an old Delphi box with Delphi cast on it. Despite the fact that they were unaware that Delphi boxes were still in use prior to 2006, she assured me that this was the right kit and I should install it how she described. BTW, the printed instructions that came with the kit are for a steering box that should have been installed in 2006. In addition, the drawing is too blurry to show the orientation of the part, and it does not distinguish between a plastic washer and a Well, with the pitman arm off and there was no snap ring, I got it back together. We did not find it. A little bit of information on Delphi boxes is hard to find on the internet, but there is a lot on Saginaw boxes, and the snap rings are very clearly visible when the dust boot is removed. So, after much research, I found a you tube video where one guy is drilling and taping a Delphi box for a hydro assist set up, and he talks about seals and how to install them, etc. And guess what? That guy told me what I needed to know! I was told that the second seal goes after the plastic washer and should be oriented with the lip facing the body of the box, but it's not actually a seal. The dust shield serves as a protective cover. It is REDUCED and turned away from the body of the box at the point of the lip. In other words, Plews was mistaken in several ways. Due to the fact that Plews/Edelman fails to consider the patronage or time of our customers, I will provide you with a detailed description of how to install Based on how the OEM box had the parts oriented, this is how I have it oriented here. As per our instructions, here is the order of installation It is the one with the plastic washer on it. (1) Taller/larger seal, lip first. It is the lip with the spring that faces the worm gear and roller bearings on the inside of the box. It makes sense that the plastic washer would be inserted at this point since it is attached to (3) The metal washer is next. (2) Snap ring - third. (2) Next we have a short dust shield/sealant. There is a lip at this point that faces the needle bearings. This is oriented downward away from the gear box body. So let me make sure you understand, the two lips on the seals face the opposite direction. (3) Install the dust boot that sits on top of the splines. The dust boot is not included with this kit. It's the one that you took off that you reuse. (6) Last but not least, It's possible to remove a large oring from the kit that seals the opposite side of the shaft housing if you As per Plews's written instructions, I had been planning on blowing out the seals on the box with line pressure with the car in the back seat. The Delphi box can't be removed while in the car unless you have removed the dust seal. There is maybe an inch or so of depth The snap ring is very deep in there as well. The shaft of a regular set of snap ring pliers is in the way and therefore cannot reach it. If you want to extract it, you will have to improvise. The process of starting it up is pretty easy once you've got it up and running. a screw to remove the dust shield/seal (the one that comes in the kit), the plastic washer, and the main seal were also removed with a screw. The metal washer was removed using a long thin magnet I had. To install the seals, I wound up using a piece of PVC pipe instead. The process went extremely smoothly. As it was the only thing I had long enough to clear the shaft, it was the only thing I could use. In the deep socket, no matter how large it is, the seal is too deep inside the tube to be able to reach it. All in all, it is not a difficult job to replace The box needs to be removed from the car, the lines must be disconnected from the box, the pitman ball end needs to be removed from the drag link, and the pitman arm needs to be removed from the output shaft. It is also worth pointing out that the power steering lines going to the box are held in with 18mm fittings. The majority of wrench sets do not include an 18mm wrench. It is very rare to find flare wrench sets that As luck would have it, I had purchased a set of metric crow's foot flare wrenches from NAPA a while back and that kit happened to include an 18mm wrench, so I had the right tool to crack the lines loose. It appears you'll need a flare wrench of some sort in order to remove the lines. I doubt an open ended wrench would have done the job.
I found it hard to beat the price for replacing the pittman seal on my 1998 Chevrolet Silverado On my truck, I replaced the seal from below by leaving the box in place. I've been waiting a week with no sign of a drop.
At the base of the pitman arm, there was a significant leak in the power steering gearbox, which required me to fill up the fluid once a With this kit, the seals and other parts are replaced. I was able to completely eliminate the leak with that. We are happy with our purchase.
I had a hard time installing. After a leak was found in the steering box of a 2002 suburban, seals had to be replaced. The pitman arm was a nightmare to get off, and it was quite a challenge to remove the old seals, but in the end there were no leaks.
I installed this on my 93 K3500 and it worked perfectly. Just be sure to not mix up the fluid seal with the dust seal.
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