SELTERM 1 AWG 1/2" Stud (2 pcs.) UL Marine Grade Battery Ring Terminal Connector, Tubular Electrical Wire End Cable Lugs, Tinned Copper Eyelets [B62]
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The packing's measurements are 4x4x2.
The "PX" does not appear to be listed on Amazon, so this lust is for md0438p. The only significant difference appears to be the contact area width, based on the specifications. Both have a 3/8 hole and are 4 awg. The PX is a smidgeon bigger.
Make direct contact with the seller to see if they can assist you.
Selected User Reviews For SELTERM 1 AWG 1/2" Stud (2 pcs.) UL Marine Grade Battery Ring Terminal Connector, Tubular Electrical Wire End Cable Lugs, Tinned Copper Eyelets [B62]
I've worked as an electrician for 35 years and have a lot of experience with crimp connectors. It's best to use tinned copper. These connectors are well-built and perform admirably. Just a heads up to the average user: to secure these, you'll need a big crimp tool. You won't be able to accomplish this with a small hand-held crisper. Any crimp connector of this size will do the same.
It was used to connect my battery to the winch cables. Because I didn't have the right crimper, I clamped the ring terminal in a vise, filled the cup end with solder, heated it up with a propane torch, and dipped the stripped copper end of the cable into the molten solder. I used adhesive-backed heat shrink to cover it and it works great!.
2 AWG = 0 was referred to in an online chart. The diameter of the ring is 258 inches. After crimping, the 1/4" stranded wire (with 3/8" insulation) did not work. 21/64 inch (0. 25 cm) lug opening Drill bit (3281 inch). The opening is too large to compress to less than a quarter inch (0. 25 inch). 250-inch) to tighten against the wiring, resulting in extra dog ears. Recommend that the seller specify the initial opening, which should be able to compress to the smallest possible size. I'll have to order smaller size lugs to see if that solves the problem. I used a YQK-style YQK-style YQK-style Die 25 for the 300 Hydraulic Crimping Tool.
We have a MK4 Jetta that had the dreaded "fuse box meltdown," so after attempting a new box with the best cleaning up the oxidized cable we could only to have it melt again a month later, we decided to spring for a hydraulic hex crimper, 4ga copper welding wire, and two sizes of Selterm tinned copper wire lugs (one for each end of the new alternator cable we assembled to resolve our problem)br> All ten lugs appear to be well-made, with no inconsistencies or flaws, and both our test cable and the actual cable performed admirably. br>br>The car has been repaired, and the wife is pleased.
I'm in the middle of a boat rewiring project, and I needed a number of battery/power cables of specific lengths, but the cost of custom cables was driving me insane, so I decided to make my own - I got some 4GA cable, which came in a variety of colors and sizes. I used crimps of various sizes (these parts) and a crimper/cutter tool combination to get started. br>br>At the end of the day, I was able to make a half-decent half-decent half-decent half-decent half-decent half-decent half-decent half- a dozen custom-made length cables for a fraction of the price of "professionally made" versions It helped that I had previously worked as a professional cable and harness maker - I'm pretty sure I know what I'm doing here. I'm also a trained and practicing engineer, as well as a huge MacGuyver fan - I take some pride in the fact that I can complete any task. br>br>There is definitely a trick to getting good big-game fishing. It's possible to make cable crimps with inexpensive tools and parts, but it's not easy. All it takes is a little practice, patience, and a steep learning curve.
It did exactly what it said it would do. I believe the 2/0 wire I was using was slightly undersized, because I found that using the next size down die for the crimper gave me better results. The smaller die would pinch these terminals, but this isn't the terminals' fault. So far, my connections have appeared to be in good condition and have held up well. Time will tell, to be certain.
As a customer suggestion, this product was advertised in conjunction with my initial cable number purchase. Because the original kit I purchased was lacking in eyelets, I purchased this one. It is advertised as being for Gage, but it isn't even close. I had to remove a portion of the copper winding to get these over the actual cable, and the overall size is half of what I ordered. It's better to pay a few pennies more and get an accurate product and description at a big box store for something so small.
It appears to do what it says. It showed different voltage values with and without a load at first, which was an issue. Although the voltage increased with load, my meter indicated that the "unloaded" voltage was correct, as this was a test setup. When we used the same setup and wiring in our off-grid cabin, it seemed to work fine; I'm not sure why things changed, but everything is fine. The display will be mounted remotely using a 30-foot cable. We'll see how it works with the 50' wire once everything is in place. The only thing I think could be better is that the shunt has no mounting, so you'll have to make one yourself to isolate it. If there are any problems with the extension or anything else, I'll let you know.