1-2-Both-Off Battery Switch 12V-60V Battery Disconnect Master Cut Shut Off for Marine Boat Car RV ATV Vehicle Heavy Duty Battery Isolator Switch
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It's a simple cut-off switch that can be used on either the positive or negative side. It's quite effective.
I checked which position was connected to which battery terminal with a multimeter.
The positive of one battery is connected to post 1, and the positive of the other is connected to post 2. The most common one is where the main positive comes from the motor and everything else. The negative is transferred from one battery to the next. and the motor's ground will be connected to one of the batteries' negative terminals.
8 and 10 were the numbers I used. It was also quite rigid. It would be difficult to use 4/0, but it is possible. The bolts were 3/8" in diameter, according to my calculations.
Selected User Reviews For 1-2-Both-Off Battery Switch 12V-60V Battery Disconnect Master Cut Shut Off for Marine Boat Car RV ATV Vehicle Heavy Duty Battery Isolator Switch
The switch is not what it appears to be in the listing. Electricity would jump or arc a cross terminals and they are not insulated, despite the fact that the listing states 300 AMPS. The switch says 50 AMPS on the inside, which will not work for what I'm doing with it. Because it will be used as a cutoff for the winch connection, which is powered by TWO 1100 cold cranking amp industrial batteries, the warning specs state that the maximum draw will be 78 amps, and that is if the winch is at 12,000 pounds. Pounds can be pulled at any time! Furthermore, I am unable to insert the battery lugs into the switch without them touching. They'll fit, but they'll rub against each other, defeating the Switch's purpose. I'm not sure how I'm going to get this plastic back to you.
To begin with, the box I received had been opened and the part had been repackaged without the four mounting screws. In my Amazon experience, repackaged items sold as new are becoming more common, which concerns me. br>br>Furthermore, the amperage rating does not appear to be supported by the design. My end lugs are very, very close together inside the housing, so 300A requires 0 AWG or better yet, my end lugs are very, very close together. Despite the silly, plastic spacer, an arc could easily cross any of those spaces at the rated energy. It's more of a metric than a constituent. br>br>An arc isn't required in marine or automotive applications. Because the posts are much smaller than the specified 10mm, 10mm connections have several millimeters of movement when bouncing around in a vehicle.
If I were building a system at 20% the listed rating with no bigger than 6 AWG wiring I might use this.
For obvious reasons, a two-battery switching system has been planned for quite some time. These switches can be very expensive, so once I found this price, it was time to finish the project. I didn't mount it outside because I didn't want it to be exposed to the elements. It just didn't seem like a good idea. I can see how a dashboard mount would be useful, but I mounted it inside the battery covers under an enclosure, so it won't be affected by the weather. It's no big deal to lift the lid and turn on the battery. It's an A/B/A B/OFF rotary switch with a lot of weight to it. Because the connection bolts appear to be stainless steel, corrosion should not be an issue; however, I coat them with dielectric grease just in case. This is the same heavy-duty switch that costs a lot more in marine stores.
No, it's not a Blue Sea or a Perko, but it'll suffice for my needs. I wanted to use the sump pump battery to power a 12 volt dc light above my sump pit. This switch serves as a switch for the sump backup pump and a light. Now, for the boat, I'd suggest investing in a Blue Sea or Perko battery switch. They are simply constructed better; you get what you pay for. It would be difficult to route number fours or heavier gauge wires to this switch because the terminals are close together. Because this switch is much smaller than the other brands I mentioned, you'd have to route them from at least two, if not three, different directions. 5 stars for this application; however, if you have a boat and require reliability, simply purchase a BlueSea or Perko switch.
I previously purchased one with removable tabs on the plastic base that allowed you to run wires in from the side, allowing the unit to be mounted directly to a surface without the need for holes. Because this one had a shallower base and no removable tabs, I had to drill a large hole in the base to allow large wires to pass through. When compared to the other unit, it's a real pain in the rear. This is a one-time purchase that I will not be making again.
It's a change of pace. On my electric-only pontoon boat, it performs admirably. My only gripe is that it rotates about 45 degrees backwards from the off position before becoming stuck. It goes back if you twist really hard, but I've done it on accident several times now, and the design doesn't seem to allow for that. It's annoying, but it's a minor issue, and for the price, I'd buy it again.
It's a must to install a battery switch if you don't already have one. br>First, take a look at what you're going to do. Step 2: Drill the battery box with a 2-inch hole saw. br> br>Step 3: Glue it inbr> Connect the black line to the positive, but leave the positive alone. br>br>br>br>br>br> Turn off the light and have a beer because it only took you 30 minutes and you don't have to unhook your terminal leads any longer!.
We'll see how we can use to change the batteries in my trolling motor. I needed two batteries because I have a 12 volt motor and use a lot of batteries when fishing. Time will tell whether or not it is of good quality. br>br>Well, it's been a few months, so here's an update: it still works, but the plastic is rotting badly due to the sun.