GM Genuine Parts 22846471 Negative Battery Cable
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Sorry. I have no idea. It was a perfect fit in my 2008 Avalanche.
The Battery Current Sensor appears to be attached to the cable in its normal position in the photo. Because the sensor is available in two versions (one that receives a 10V signal from the Body Control Module and one that receives a 5V signal), this is highly unlikely. They have no way of knowing which design you have, so it's most likely a photo error.
My instrument panel was acting up, and the door locks were locking and unlocking at random. The problem was resolved as a result of this action.
I'm not sure what you mean by a "plastic ring." However, one of the plastic pieces serves as an electrical connection, while the other two are used to clip the battery cable to adjacent cables in order to keep it neat and organized in the engine bay.
Selected User Reviews For GM Genuine Parts 22846471 Negative Battery Cable
Item was exactly as described and fixed the strange electrical problems I was having with my 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ. I bought it brand new and discovered after a lot of research that others were having nearly the same issue I was having with the locks locking and unlocking all of a sudden, radio issues, sometimes starting issues (but brand new battery), and other issues; nothing seemed related, but since many people said they had a "possessed" truck, which is what it seemed like, I decided to try this option. I talked to a local dealer who wanted to know how I found out about changing the negative cable or why I decided to try it, and it was all because I searched forums on the internet to see what other people were saying.
OEM cable of excellent quality that is perfectly suited to the application. OEM cables are preferable to universal cables because they fit properly, often have the correct hold downs or mounting points, and you can be sure that they are the correct gauge and connection ends. As more vehicles incorporate sophisticated computers and anti-everything sensors, These devices, such as lane departure, automatic braking, and automatic cruise control, all require a constant and consistent electrical feed and grounds. Changing the cables with the incorrect ratings may have an impact on these systems because the voltage drops or capacity of the replacement cables may introduce intermittent or inconsistent voltage readings, affecting the performance of some systems. A ground cable with an excessively high resistance, for example, could cause computer issues with a variety of vehicle systems. This cable is for a full-size Chevy, and it solved many issues with not only starting, but also a whole slew of other subsystems, such as ABS, traction control, door locks, and so on, which all went crazy while driving due to excessive corrosion and an unseen high resistance within the cable. If you have an electrical problem with your Tahoe, Suburban, or Silverado, such as a dead battery, abs/traction lights, transmission shifting issues, door locks that cycle for no apparent reason, gauges that go crazy, and so on, please contact us. It's possible that this is the source of your issue. Simply swap out the cables! Many of these vehicles have this problem, as the cables rot from the inside, resulting in intermittent ground and excessive resistance, particularly in snowy areas where road salt is used. If you have the dreaded no start, but it starts right up on other occasions, indicating a dead battery on some occasions but not on others, check and replace the cables. Since replacing, I have had no electrical issues, all warning lights have gone out, and the truck is running like new again. When it comes to electrical components, OEM parts are the best choice because they are the genuine article and will perform as intended. The quality of many of these replacement parts has deteriorated as more of these components are sourced from outside the United States. GM specifies OEM parts, and even if they are manufactured elsewhere, they must meet OEM specifications in order to be labeled as such. Even though the OEM cables are a few dollars more expensive, I recommend them. Best wishes to you. On these vehicles, there is also a current sensor (a small round device with a plug) located on the ground cable- This OEM cable includes a brand new one. Many aftermarket cables do not comply with this requirement. Best wishes to you.
In my 2012 Tahoe LS, I was experiencing the same phantom crazy electrical problems as many others. There is only one battery (this is a single battery cable). I was sceptical of the whole "bad ground cable" thing. "br>However, I was desperate because losing power/trans and pulling out across three lanes while in neutral is a surefire way to get killed. This was the solution. It's been over two months of daily abusive driving, and it's been fantastic. When unbolting the grounds from the engine block and then the one on the bottom of the frame, I recommend heavily filing the entire area and then applying dielectric grease to the bare metal before reinstalling the cables. It's possible that the problem was caused by a bad connection, but since it didn't appear to be the case, I filed it anyway. I believe the bad connection is inside the plug that GM uses for all of the module grounds; a small amount of corrosion will cause everything to go haywire, and leave it to GM to design such a design. In any case, it's been fixed for the past two months.
I'm not sure what to say. For most 2007-2008 vehicles, this is the ground cable with the negative battery terminal. GM full-size trucks for the year 2013. If you, like me and many others, lose all power at random, or worse, this might be the solution for you. In my case, I initially blamed a bad new battery because my charging indicator gauge had been indicating that it had been charging like crazy for days on end without adjusting or going into low charge eco mode. When I went to clamp the battery charger lead on to the neg. after it had lost all power, it was completely dead. The alarm went off because I unlocked the door before turning on the power! It wasn't a matter of a dead battery. It seemed to happen a few more times because of the cold weather, each time the truck started with the tiniest wiggle of the negative batt. terminal. It's been a month since the replacement, and there have been no issues. At some point, I intend to replace the positive cable as well as the starter solenoid cable. But, for the time being, it is behaving normally, driving, and being as dependable as before. Installation br>br>Installation br>Installation br>Installation br>Installation Because you can see where your current one goes, it's fairly simple. It's a little tricky because it appears to go up front near or under the radiator, which GM did for a reason, but I improvised and ran the narrow end to another grounding point. Maybe one day I'll fix it, but for now it's perfect. I think the price is reasonable as well, so five stars.