Hellwig 7962 11-14" Adjustable Endlinks
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Because they are adjustable, my husband believes you should be able to do so. In our motorhome, we installed them. If they don't appear to be appropriate, you can probably return them.
Yes, they are sold in pairs, but I would not purchase another pair after the last pair I purchased. I'd sell the pair I bought if I could make them.
You might have to use your old bolts depending on your application. I did. I'm not sure what size the bolts were, but they were too short for my RV. To fit the upper mount location, I had to trim the rubber bushings on one end. It's possible that yours is not the same.
Gary, the ones I purchased were for use in an RV and were mounted on an F53 chassis. I bought a pair from Advance Auto to replace the ones in my 2006 Ranger. It's pretty straightforward. The originals were simply rusted out!
Selected User Reviews For Hellwig 7962 11-14" Adjustable Endlinks
Aside from that, they're just a standard truck chassis R. This is not a project for the inexperienced mechanic. br>I used to fix my motorhome (2006 Ford F53 chassis) with the "cheap handling fix" (CHF). This isn't a review of the CHF, but rather of the Hellwig adjustable links' design and installation. For my project, I only used them on the front, and I used the old links to apply the CHF to the back. If I need longer rear links, I'll either install the longer OEM front links or order another pair. br>br>Unlike others, I did not have to clean the paint off of the threads, and my project came together quickly. The included fasteners and steel sleeve diameter are not the same as OEM Ford bolts. The diameter of Ford bolts is a little larger. As a result, I re-read the book, as have many others. I reused the bolts and sleeves that I already had. The OEM Ford bushings are straightwall and would not work properly in the Hellwig end links, so I used the "hourglass" shaped Helwig urethane bushings instead. The following is how I go about installing: br>1) Use the included silicone grease to lubricate the Helwig urethane bushings and insert them into the Hellwig link eyes. br>2) Push out the link steel sleeves that are currently in place. br>3) Lube your old steel link sleeves and insert them into the Hellwig urethane bushings. br>4) Install the links on the vehicle, sandwiching the Hellwig urethane bushings and OEM sleeves with your existing washers. br>5) Throw the Hellwig fasteners and sleeves in the trash. Steps 1 and 3 should be done with a vise, while Step 2 should be pushed with an appropriate sized socket or another sleeve. br>Because the Hellwig urethane bushings and sleeves are slightly longer (perhaps 3/32") than the OEM bushings and sleeves, when tightened enough to "sandwich" the OEM sleeve tight between the washers, the Hellwig bushings on the ends will deform quite a bit. This does not appear to be a problem, and it is critical that these fasteners be tightened. Because of the thickness of the frame and the length of the sleeve, the OEM Ford bolts have an unthreaded section that is a little too short, a few threads are inside the steel sleeves. This is also true, I believe, in the stock Ford installation (at least on my F53), particularly if Ford Z brackets are installed. This does not appear to be a problem in my opinion. The Z brackets are mounted on the top and bottom of each link in my setup. Ford's Technical Service Bulletin (TSB?) should be consulted. Article No. 4- 2 can be found at www. thedieselstop is a website dedicated to helping people stop smoking. com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/files/041102/com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/files/041102/com/faq/9497 pdf. It's worth noting that the article mentions new bolts that may or may not be the correct unthreaded length. If you're concerned about this, you can replace the bolts, but you'll need to measure them and may have to go to a specialty store or Ford to do so. (Warning: The bolts are expensive for Ford parts, and I'm not sure if they're the correct unthreaded length. So I'd just take measurements and order them from McMaster Carr or another fastener supplier). br>br>Another question I have is whether or not I will be able to find replacement "hourglass" bushings if/when they wear out. Because they're urethane, you shouldn't have to worry about it. br>br>I haven't driven it yet, but if there are any issues with the links or the installation, I will update this review. On the internet, there is enough pro and con CHF data for most people to make an informed decision about whether or not to participate. br>br>Note: If you're looking for a unique way to express yourself, try using the words "creative Due to access to the inside of the frame, especially on the front of an F53 chassis, casual mechanics may have difficulty removing the old links and installing new ones. To donate blood and skin to the project, you'll need the right tools, patience, strength, and a little extra blood and skin. Also, don't work under a vehicle that isn't properly supported. I can crawl under mine and work on it while it's sitting on the tires rather than being jacked up. br>br>Overall, the design is pleasing to me - I just wish they were identical to the OEM fastener. sleeve sizes, or a separate kit could be offered. I'm guessing that the vast majority of these transactions are for motorhome chassis.
Excellent service and a fantastic company.
This was used on the 2014 F- a total of 53 chassis When the timer is set to 12, In the "firm" sway bar position, you achieve a similar angle of attack as the stock link gives you in the "soft" position at 675" (bolt centers). The stock links fit snugly in the firm position, but the "CHF" was "clunking. " Have fun and be safe while you're on the road.
Purchased in order to complete the CHF on my 2004 Holiday Rambler. While the installation wasn't quick due to the location of the top bolts, it wasn't difficult and shouldn't be too difficult for the average guy with a few tools. I believe the RV rides and handles better now, but I had new shocks installed and a steering stabilizer installed this past weekend, which I have yet to road test.
On my F53 motorhome, I tried the Cheap Handling Fix, but the geometry was off. It made a huge difference after I added the Hellwig End links. Body roll is effectively eliminated by using proper geometry and a stiffer position.
Installed on a Winnebago Sightseer 29R with a Ford F53 chassis from 2006 (2005 chassis). To keep the stock sway bar geometry, use the "Cheap Handling Fix. " The stock front sway bar end links were then used for the CHF on the rear axle to prevent the sway bar angle from becoming too radical when the frame was raised, potentially damaging the VSS mounted in the top of the differential. br>br>I'm still not sure what changed the most in our motorhome's handling. I also replaced all four Bilstein shocks with Monroe Gas Magnums (available on Amazon) and ordered a set of the blue polyurethane rear sway bar bushings (only available on fleabay) to replace the stock ones, which had completely failed. br>br>I didn't encounter any of the previously mentioned thread damage or incompleteness issues. I also didn't have any issues with excessive paint galling the threads. However, to accept the slightly larger stock Ford bolts, I had to drill out the center steel bushing. So, on the one hand, I suppose Hellwig paid attention to the reviews and tightened their quality control - However, they haven't yet realized that the majority of people are purchasing these for the CHF on Ford F53 motor home chassis. Hello, Hellwig, are you able to provide a larger set of bushings to the majority of your customers?.
I even broke my work bench vice (not a good vice, but whatever) while attempting to break the male end with a breaker bar. I'm back, and I'm hoping the replacement won't have the same problem. When the second set arrives, I'll post an update.
Installed a rear sway bar on my 1995 Chevy Tahoe 2Door with a 6" lift kit (technically a 4" lift kit) and it worked perfectly. 5" at the back). The original kit I bought came with a Clevis, but this one does not. These kits contain only what is necessary to replace the kit's end links. Still a fantastic design that, when combined with the 7608 kit for my Tahoe, made for an incredible upgrade.
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