VHT SP123 Engine Enamel Chevy Orange Can - 11 oz.
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Questions & Answers
Any type of primer will work for a nice finish on whatever you're painting. Three light coats of primer, lightly sanded in between, are recommended. When you're getting ready to paint your engine, keep in mind that this is a thick paint. The paint has a lot of heavy particulate matter in it. Because this paint settles quickly, I recommend turning the paint can upside down for 3–4 hours. Shake it violently after a few hours upside down to get it well mixed. After that, avoid spraying too close to the surface you want to hit. Spray evenly side to side about 5 to 6 inches from the surface at a temperature of 72 degrees Fahrenheit.
Yes. I've tried it on my brake calipers and it's fantastic. Depending on how much you drive, you may need to touch it up every now and then to keep it bright, but that will happen regardless of what paint you use due to brake dust and other factors. I use this because of the high temperature.
Josh, this Clear Coat is pretty much the same as any other. It is effective. Re-spray a couple of coats if necessary. Depending on how it's used, it'll last a long time! I hope this information is useful. {wolfman}
Selected User Reviews For VHT SP123 Engine Enamel Chevy Orange Can - 11 oz.
This product's heat resistance piqued my interest, so I was excited to try it. The cap did not come off easily on the first attempt. The nozzle was lost when the cap finally came off. The contents of the can began to spray out of control as a result of this. When the alarm went off, I was in the basement washroom. I dashed up the stairs and into the kitchen, attempting but failing miserably to contain the spray with the cap. I couldn't seem to get the can's cap back on. I tossed it down the garbage disposal and transferred it to a garbage bag. After about 5 minutes, the can was emptied into the bag. My house stinks now, and we're scrubbing the shine off the walls and carpet. br>br>I'll look for something similar from another company, but if that doesn't work out, I might try this again. br>br>I'm not sure if this product is effective.
VHT Satin Black was purchased at a local store. Our vehicle will be painted in gold. Both were extremely well-applied and resulted in a fantastic result. Before applying these paints to the motor, I used a Rustoleum 2000-degree primer. I also painted the brake calipers gold and then sealed them with rustoleum 2000 degree clear coat. VHT Caliper Paint is not to be used. It had been a nightmare. This Engine paint, on the other hand, is amazing!.
Each can was fickle, spraying in a different pattern at different times throughout the painting process. On the wheel, there were numerous flaws. Prior to final painting, everything was wet sanded. So, if you think you'll be able to prime and paint in one day, you're mistaken. Before spraying, three of the cans sprayed a foamy ooz, and then all that came out was the type of spray that caused all of the previously mentioned flaws. I strongly advise you to purchase any other heat-resistant primer instead of this one. This item will only add to your workload! And, best of all, it can't be returned! Don't throw away your cash on this nonsense!.
Used on the engine; it performs admirably and has remained in place for at least four months (daily driving in a turbo vehicle, with exposure to extreme temperatures).
If this is your first time painting with a spraycan, stay away and get something else, there are no instructions and the paint does not spray, it comes out like a jet wash, it feels like brake cleaner or similar stuff where you need pressure to penetrate and clean the surface, it should spray like powder, this makes the job a lot more difficult and you need to cover a much larger area to not over spray everything under your car, I don't understand why they could do this.
I purchased two cans, as well as primer and two clear coat cans. I cleaned and sanded the surface before priming, painting, and clear coating it. I followed the instructions to a tee. I was planning on allowing the heat from the pipes to bake the paint. I gave the paint 48 hours to dry before putting it up. My truck began to brown and bubble as soon as I turned it on. It had to be part of the curing process, I reasoned. normal. So I gave it about 40 minutes to sit and idle. When you return, nearly all of it has flaked away. I took the entire exhaust for a test drive. When I got home, it was as if I hadn't painted at all. A total of $80 has been squandered. For nothing, I thank you.
For my circa 1960s Chrysler engine, it provided adequate coverage and the correct color (after I tried Valspar Plasticoat Chrysler Blue, which provided inadequate coverage and the WRONG COLOR!). I'll be buying more of these now that I'm certain it's the right one. The intake, valve covers, water pump housing, thermostat housing, and other parts of the vehicle can all be painted.
I only had three bolt heads, nine nuts, four washers, two pulleys, and a dipstick tube to paint, and the coverage was terrible. There was no problem using the same can of primer for all of the engine parts. I'm painting three times the parts using purple from a different brand that I had left over. This? Just to finish three parts and a few nuts/bolts, I had to purchase a second can. I'm hoping it was just a bad can. When the next can arrives, I'll post an update. It's a little ridiculous to spend $20 on three parts and some minor hardware. br>br>I'm sorry this was the only yellow I could find; otherwise, I would have purchased a different brand and started over. I doubt I'll buy this brand again because either the QC is poor and a bad can is a non-starter, or the quality is poor and a non-starter is a non-starter. There's no way, or it's just a bad product.