Valvoline VR1 Racing SAE 10W-30 Motor Oil 1 QT
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About 1400 ppm of ZDDP is present in the silver container, which is conventional oil. A black container with approximately 1200 parts per million of ZDDP is fully synthetic. In spite of their excellent shear/anti-wear properties, both of these oils are prone to fouling catalytic converters over time because of their high phosphorus content.
A organic oil is present in this product. Valvoline is labeled as a synthetic oil in black on its 20W50 black label, and it is clear that it is synthetic. It's because the oil contains a high amount of zinc, which is a must for older engines like my 1952 MG TD.
The price is 32 dollars. For a 6 quart bottle of #211 20w50 racing oil, you will pay 69 plus shipping
This formula works the same way. Sitting on a shelf for a long period of time does not harm oil. As for the date on the bottle, I have never looked at the fill date on the oil bottle that I use in my alcohol-fueled Sprint Car engines that cost thousands of dollars.
Selected User Reviews For Valvoline VR1 Racing SAE 10W-30 Motor Oil 1 QT
Still has full 5 bars. At idle, there are about three. In Winter, it starts to get colder down to 0 degrees or lower A temperature of 10F is That would be a risk conventional would not attempt. Apparently, there is no leakage, and the tank was never filled or topped off after filling, so you must keep the seal swollen. The system runs at 120F in summer as well, so it can handle all temperatures. After 5000 miles on a 140K car in one year, there are no problems. I looked at the dipstick and it still appeared clean. This update was posted on 3/15/2020. A great company that still thrives. We are now 2 Winters into driving randomly through the wilderness. After draining it, it now looks like a bluish black color. The trip so far has been around 6000 miles. The Castrol GTX Dino will be run for about 500 miles at low revs to clean engine gunk then this will be reloaded back in for another two It's great for high revving Porsches without having to worry about a blown engine. I have never had a leak or burnt a drop on my.
In 1973, I had a Corvette with 64,000 miles original to it. Three to four months is how often I change this oil. Does it go too far? The likelihood is high. It is important to take special care of an old original engine. In flat tappet engines, zinc acts as a buffer, so the oil is high in zinc. Due to the thin nature of the newer oils, I do not want leaks. I use 10/30 for this reason. As for synthetics, let me tell you. The reason I use it is that I am not the original owner, so I do not know what type of fuel the previous owner, who owned the car for 40 years, used. Because I don't want to go in the opposite direction from what it is used to, I figure to use synthetic just to be sure.
This is the fuel supply for my 65 Shelby that has a 347 stroker with flat tappets. It should be able to handle engines with less power as well, if it protects my 427 horse power. Zinc is necessary for flat tappets since they will wear out without it. In the past, all oil contained zinc, this is why the lamps were made. The engine will also last longer because of it!.
In any case, the zinc content in older flat tappet engines need to be higher. It will cost me less to get this oil for my 1978 Triumph delivered to my door than to take it to the auto parts store and wait in line or to have it ordered from them.
After 2 racing seasons (38 races), he said his engine has to be the cleanest and show the least wear on the bearings in all of his years of building race car engines. It runs warm at 225 degrees while I race in dirty conditions. It also runs warm at 250 degrees on a few occasions. With my oil and filter changing every 4 nights, this oil is the most economical quality race oil with excellent performance. There is an Amazon listing for the Valvoline VR1 20 w- There are usually 50 on sale for about $35 per It is highly recommended for use in performance oils. And the price is excellent per quart. Fuels like methanol work great with it as well.
Does this oil seem a must if you have an older car dating back to the 80s or earlier?.
The oil I use on my boosted Corvette is VR1 full synthetic now for quite some time. I run methanol and make sure to do oil changes more often than is usually recommended. Anyone who wants to preserve the interiors of their motor with the best oil will definitely want to try this.
The only oil I use for my big block Chevy 540 is this oil. I like the price of this jug and the convenience of the 5 QT size.