Red Line 50205 MTL 75W80 GL-4 Gear Oil - 1 Gallon

(PLEASE BE ADVISED: The old oil in the photo is genuine Mazda fluid from back in the day! It is not recommended to use Redline oil. ) I put it in my 2010 Mazdaspeed3 with 75,000 miles on the clock. I did it myself because no one else in the area was interested. The original trans oil had never been changed (due to Mazda's claim that the original factory fluid is a "lifetime" fluid, which it clearly isn't) and was as dark as cocacola and as thick as (real) maple syrup when it came out of the car. Unlike the old, nasty black fluid, this new liquid is transparent with a slight hint of red and flows much more easily. I was having a lot of trouble getting into first and second gear before I changed it (the shifter wouldn't always want to go all the way into gear). It had gotten to the point where I was considering selling the car. But this new oil repaired 100% of the damage. I also had a problem with 2nd gear going in with a crunch with the old oil (possibly worn synchro?). ), this oil didn't completely eliminate the crunch, but it significantly reduced it, and it now vanishes entirely once the car is fully warmed up. I'm still surprised Mazda didn't include a service interval for changing the transmission fluid in the Speed3. It's imperative that this fluid be replaced. br>br>How to alter it in the Mazdaspeed3 is as follows: You won't need to remove the airbox if you can find a long enough funnel or extend the one you already have. I used a plastic water hose to extend mine.

Layne Andersen

| Mar 26, 2021

I own a 2005 TJ and a 2008 JK with the NSG370 6-speed manual transmission. I had no idea the previous owner had installed GL5 (I believe) on the 2005. Despite the fact that I got MTL in late, the transmission's life was extended. br>br>I had it rebuilt in 2005, and MTL, a GL4 gear oil, is compatible with the synchros on this transmission. It is imperative that you maintain a healthy fluid balance. br>br>If someone advises you to "leave old fluid in," I would be hesitant to follow their advice because transmissions are machines with gears and other metal components that require this gear oil to lubricate and prevent unnecessary wear and damage. br>br>It should only get better if you remove the old gear oil and replace it with new gear oil. If you changed the fluid and experienced a failure, that failure was inevitable, whether you wanted it or not. br>br>It's not my opinion; I honestly don't care if someone leaves their oil in and smokes their transmission; it's their choice; I'm just cautioning you to consider the logic behind "leave old broken down fluid in your transmission" advice if you are not experienced; illogical advice can get through.

Skylar Morales

| Feb 21, 2021

It's not a joke. So there you have it. My Honda Civic is a 2007 model with a 5-speed manual transmission. All in all, it's an excellent daily driver. It became increasingly difficult to shift into second gear after about 90 miles. The synchro would sometimes refuse to spin up the gear before engaging, resulting in damaging "gear" grinding, and other times the blocking ring would get in the way of the dog clutch teeth. It quickly deteriorated to the point where second place was practically unusable at 95k. Damn! A Google search revealed that I wasn't the only one who felt this way; In fact, I was one of a large group of disgruntled Civic owners. A remanufactured transmission with installation will set you back around $3000 USD plus or minus (and that's not including a new clutch and throwout bearing, which you'll want to do if you're in the market). For a 10- ish y. It was a car that made me gag, as well as make me very unhappy. I hadn't yet reached the recommended oil change interval of 120k miles. br>br>According to Honda fan boys who had the same problem, draining the trans oil and replacing it with the recommended Honda lube was ineffective (other than putting a few dollars in the mechanic's pocket). They did, however, say that draining and refilling with Red Line MTL helped. So I ordered four quarts (the Civic manual specifies one). It's supposed to be 8 quarts, but it's more like 2 quarts). 2 quarts to test it out, plus 2 more in case I needed to change it "down the road. " And it was successful! br>br> It isn't perfect; about once a month, I can feel it balk going into gear, so I return to neutral and try again, and it goes in. It's a lot less expensive than replacing the transmission. As of this writing, the car has approximately 107,500 miles on it. It's worth a shot if you're one of the disgruntled masses like I was. br>br>Another point to consider: Make sure the lube you're using on the trans is GL4 rather than GL5. The sulfur additive in GL5 will slowly eat away at the "yellow metal" alloys that the synchro cone clutches are exposed to. If it says GL5 and also satisfies GL4, it's a good candidate. NO GOOD. It must only be GL4-compatible. rated. The proper GL4 formulation is represented by the Red Line.

Etta Huff

| May 09, 2021

Honda Civic Si, model year 2008 When I bought my car (with 50k miles), I drained the OEM fluid and replaced it with Redline MTL 50204. Immediate and dramatic improvement in smoothness, as well as shorter transmission warm-up times in the winter (this car is driven every day even in the -40°F range). 20F). When the clutch was replaced at 100k, I changed the fluid (both the fluid and the clutch change were premature, but I knew I'd be without a garage for a few years - a long saga The car has 206k miles on it and is in need of another fluid change because the shifts are a little "notchy. " "br>In general, this MTL has exceeded my expectations. I've never been gentle with this car; in fact, I've never been gentle with any other vehicle. I shift at 8,000 RPM for no apparent reason, and I always joke that the transmission will split in half, but it still shifts as smoothly as a new car. br>Don't forget to purchase a pump and, ideally, replace the aluminum crush washer.

Carmelo Wolfe

| Nov 16, 2021

I installed it in my 34k-mile 2012 BMW 135i manual transmission. After about 1 hour of city driving with the original fluid, the fluid seemed to get too hot and thin, and I had trouble engaging 1st from a stop. All of the gears were squeaky as well. br>br>According to the Red Line website, D4 ATF should be used, but due to my high-temperature issues in Florida, I decided to try MTL, which is a little thicker. I only required about one. I started with 9 quarts of Red Line MTL and drained about a quarter of it. Approximately 25 quarts of the original fluid br>br>I could notice a difference in the shifts right away. All of the notchiness was gone, and all of the gears were engaging like butter. Don't follow BMW's advice about using 'lifetime fluid. ' It's not expensive, and it's simple to do yourself. Plus, the transmission now feels great.

Russell MacDonald

| Aug 02, 2021