CAIG Laboratories D100L-25C Contact Cleaner
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D5 contains the solvent and propellant for the aerosol can, while D100 is DeoxIT in its purest form.
Spray f100s in openings in the pot body while rotating the knob back and forth several times, then listen for noise, repeating the process if the pot is still noisy. Before using f100s, clean the pot with a good electronic contact cleaner spray. This worked in most cases.
I haven't checked how long it takes to dry (or if it ever does), but because it's an oil-based lubricant, you'd have an oil film after the initial de-greasing. As soon as you apply it, it begins to oxidize. After the oxidation has been removed and the sizzling has stopped, the best option is to wipe the surface clean.
It certainly ought to. This product has proven to be very effective for me. Allow it to soak for a few minutes before beginning the removal process to clean corroded battery terminals, old remotes that now work, vintage stereo equipment, and pretty much anything else with minor to serious corrosion issues.
Selected User Reviews For CAIG Laboratories D100L-25C Contact Cleaner
Simple vinegar, followed by a rinse and moisture removal, is better and less expensive; relegated to electronics, it may provide some benefit, but it doesn't do much for motorcycle and car wiring. When I tested two pieces of copper wire, one dipped in vinegar and the other treated with Deoxit, this cleaner never really got past the tarnish/corrosion. The deoxit did nothing even after hours, whereas the vinegar was a drip in, rinse, and then spray with one of those moisture-removing formulas found in auto parts stores, and it was as good as new. Sure, vinegar is an acid and could damage the wire, but I'm not talking about dunking the insulated wire in it; I'm talking about the bare end of the wire where the connection is made. A suitable film barrier will keep the connection working properly after it has been cleaned. br>br>I imagine that a lot of the claims made about deoxit are based on simply disconnecting and reconnecting the wires, which dislodges corrosion but has little to do with deoxit. Unlike silver, where the tarnish layer has no effect on current capacity, this is not the case with copper, and it is here that the simple disconnect/reconnect improvement can help. br>br>In conclusion, for the relatively high cost, save your money; this cleaner will not clean copper wire any better than any other cleaner that costs far less, and it will not come close to some inexpensive household methods. To be fair, Deoxit may act as a barrier to prevent corrosion after cleaning with something else, but given that the company appears to have a plethora of liquids for various steps, cleaning contacts and wire connections for automotive applications can quickly become more expensive than purchasing a new wire loom.
I worked as a broadcast and instrumentation engineer in the commercial broadcasting industry for many years. Since the early 1970s, I've been repairing a wide range of electronics, from consumer to commercial test equipment. I've been using Caig products for about 30 years, starting in the early 1980s. The John Fluke Company was the first to recommend it to me for use on decade switches on an AC calibrator. (This isn't to say they still recommend it; it's just that they did at the time. ) ) Since then, I've used "Cramolin Red," as it was once known, in a variety of applications. It's the only product I've ever seen that can clean up a noisy position potentiometer on an analog oscilloscope satisfactorily. (Smooth trace movement provides immediate feedback on how well it worked. ) Eratic trace control is caused by a noisy potentiometer). I used this to clean and treat the slide potentiometers, switches, and edge connectors on my Nakamichi 1000 recorder when it needed to be serviced. I dab a drop of oil on the contacts of any flashlight I own and turn it on. There will be no more varying intensities. Caig also produces products for a variety of other uses. Many of them have been put to good use by me. But this is the one I've relied on the most, and it hasn't failed me in 30 years. Those with a technical bent should check out: br>br> This is how it works. Cramolin Red (Deoxit) is formulated to not stick to itself. Under contact pressure, it quickly shrinks to monomolecular thickness. The liquid itself has a resistance of 10 x 10 to the twelfth ohms per centimeter. However, under contact pressure, that resistance drops to almost nothing at monomolecular thickness. Meanwhile, it degrades oxides and contaminants so that they can be removed. It leaves a thin protective coating that prevents further oxidation of the contact area. It's important to remember that it's not a universal solvent. An older contact lubricant known as "Rycon" left a waxy coating on contacts that had to be removed mechanically (pencil eraser) over time. It's not going to go away with Deoxid. This stuff, on the other hand, is unbeatable for treating clean or untreated contacts.
Doc.
br>br>Purchase a small "nail polish" size with a brush and refill from there. br>br>I apply it to everything. br>I brush some on the battery spring and contact before putting batteries in anything, so there are no jiggling flashlights. Ever. Those cheap aluminum LED flashlights with screwed-together sections - Aluminum oxid (rust) acts as an insulator (as seen in flashlight dies). Reassemble the new flashlight sections by unscrewing them and applying a drop of this to each threaded section. br>On USB cables, I use a small amount. There will be no more unreliable connections. Without this stuff, anything made of bare aluminum or copper will oxidize and corrode. br>br>Before using a wire nut, I strung it on bare twisted copper wire - similar to what I've got going on with my landscape lighting. You could get an intermittent if you don't have it. br> When you return, the copper has turned black. Without removing at least six inches of wire, there's no way to make a good connection. br>Twist each wire and paint on some "magic. " Use the wire nut to twist them together. br>You won't get an intermittent, and if you return to re-register, you won't get an intermittent. If you wire something, the wire will not corrode! br>br>Wait, what? br>br>Wait, what? Add a little of this to any place where metal and electricity meet, and everyone will be happy. Trust me. br>br> You will not be dissatisfied with your purchase. br>br>While it may appear to be costly, a little goes a long way. br>(I use it a lot, and the nail polish bottle lasts me at least a year; my refill bottle only lasted about five years. ).
I've been using it for over ten years and can't live without it. It removes dirt and grime from contact surfaces by dissolving oxidation. I recently used it to clean the contacts on a rotary switch. Because of oxidation, the silver plating had lost its luster and had turned black. Using Deoxit and a cotton tipped applicator, I was able to scrub the contacts clean (returning them to their gleaming new state), resulting in more reliable connections. Because the rotary switch is connected to a VTVM, having no-resistance contacts is essential for meter accuracy. Because a little Deoxit goes a long way, the needle point dispenser is an excellent way to keep track of how much solvent you're using.
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