EVANS Cooling Systems EC53001 High Performance Waterless Engine Coolant, 128 fl. oz.
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Evans test strips and conversion kits have been discontinued for over a year. It is true that the test strips have an expiration date and any test strips still in circulation have passed that date. We're under a mission to remove any and all Amazon listings that depict the conversion kits or test strips. You can call the Evans tech line 888-797-8996 if you have questions about testing the water content of your coolant after converting your vehicle to Evans Coolant. From 990 to I am 2665 MM Please contact us between 9am and 5pm eastern time or by email at [email protected]. Please click here
Pricing is not my area of expertise. It would be easiest for me to order that gallon four times.
If possible, drain coolant before using the prep by opening the radiator, or drain coolant overflow cap, and drain from the low point where the radiator meets the ground. Blowing out all of that coolant using an air compressor and a rag. Seal off the radiator cap or overflow hole, and then use an air compressor to seal it again. You can then put in the prep fluid and add some waterless coolant if necessary, and allow it to circulate for a few cycles before draining and filling entirely with A boat can be purchased or you can rent one
Hello, Evans coolant is composed primarily of propylene glycol which does not react with oxygen. It does not corrode or change over time. In over 15 years Jay Leno has used the system in his expensive Dusenbergs. It's a coolant I'll use for the rest of my life. Make sure to flush all water out of your system (use Evans coolant only) and remove any water that may still be in the I thank Gordon
Selected User Reviews For EVANS Cooling Systems EC53001 High Performance Waterless Engine Coolant, 128 fl. oz.
The coolant I use in my Jeep Rubicon 3 is this one. I have a 2004 Dodge Magnum 6 and a 2006 Dodge SRT8 Magnum 8. There is no difference in performance between the two engines. I've owned the Jeep for more than 3 years and have only owned the Magnum since October of 2016. Neither suffer from overheating. It is clear to everyone in the Dodge LX community how to Overheating is the result of 1 overheating. The fans in my room are stock because I don't run a tuner. My radiator is the original stock one and there is no problem After you turn on the fans and I drop right back down to the 190s, the hottest I see is 209- It's almost over. It's easy for me to drive it 150 miles to see my dad and it's easy for me to take off the radiator cap with my finger. Under my system there is always a pressure less than 3 PSI. It is essential that anyone claiming it does not work assures me they performed A system that contains water cannot function properly. As well as Evans prep fluid, I used 3M painters tape. I replaced my heater core with a new one, replaced my recovery tank with a new one, washed my RAD and blew it out with air with a fan and let it dry before I did my flush prep and fill. My hoses were all changed and I had a new water pump installed. So that I wouldn't have to tear the front end apart ever again, I also rebuilt the timing chain. In order to be sure that all water has been removed from my engine, I blew it out with air and even lifted the car over its side and back. My color was the greatest I could expect, so I knew I was running less than 3% water. So I used the provided test strips. drained about a gallon of fluid to ensure I had enough fluid. I then added the final gallon to make sure it was adequate. I love what I'm seeing here. It will never need to be replaced. To conserve fluid if something happens to a radiator drain valve or pump, simply pick up the fluid and store it in 2 liter soda bottles and put the caps back on the bottles. In total, I have 10 2liter bottles that I have washed out and these bottles still have their caps. No matter what happens, I will drain the necessary amount of Even into the 2 liter jugs and fill them up all the way to the top. The cap needs to be tightened. If there is any sediment in the fluid, I will strain it through a coffee filter before putting it back in. The stuff is used by guys with HEMIs that are 800HP and run 9s. You should check it out. Here are some things you might want to consider. A thermostat is necessary if you want to prevent too much flow through the system. It's necessary for antifreeze fluid to spend a sufficient period of time in the radiator so that it can pass flumes to allow for an adequate temperature Keep hoses connected to the heater core open at all times. Make sure you buy a long enough hose to connect to It is important not to collapse your bottom hose when revving the engine. When this occurs, you will see the level of the fluid in your recovery tank go low and then rise again. I don't want you to destroy the reviews because of other issues you might have. This is solid content. Additionally, they stayed on the line with me for an hour at the beginning and end of the call so I could question them about this. Nice people with a lot of energy. Do not hesitate to call them if you have a doubt. This was done and there is no problem with my cooling.
When I saw Jay Leno give the thumbs up to this product, I decided to take the plunge and buy it. After running this stuff in my 70 aar cuda for 6 months and chasing my tail to get it to run cool, I have finally figured it out. A coolant made by Evans was involved. There are no side effects to this stuff, although As a result, I dropped the temperature by 30 degrees by switching back to the old 50/50 mix of green antifreeze and water. It was not a comfortable experience running on 210 and watch it climb during a stop. It is therefore recommended that if you have an old muscle car that you use what it has in it originally instead of buying something new.
Evans is being run in two Honda Civics with a goal of lowering the fuel consumption within Pressures in the cooling system. Contrary to conventional anti-tank measures, Evans provides a more effective replacement If it ever boils, you'd already have experienced catastrophic failure, given that it will not begin to boil till it reaches 375F. My 16 psi radiator caps cannot pass through it since it creates no steam pressure when it is operating normally This condition is not present unless the coolant level in the top of the radiator tank is too high. Although it does not create steam pressure, it does create hydraulic pressure, which means that the liquid expands by about 7% at 200F (one source told me). In the event that the pressure cap gets filled up to the top of the radiator neck, the fluid would push through the pressure cap and flow into the overflow reservoir. The differential in pressures that move regular coolant back and forth during usage will not force it back into the coolant reservoir. You will see the Evans overflow until it finds its own level within the radiator top tank if you did fill up the radiator I found one vehicle to be approximately 0 feet in the case of my other vehicle. The inner flange of the neck must be 5" below the surface of the collar One leveled off about 0 and the other remained flat. Please see the table below for 75". (I normally run coolant right up to the reservoir overflow tube, so this Evans characteristic was at first puzzling. )***Because I have stock performance vehicles, I have In principle, the systems are never heated unless there is an issue with them. According to its merits, it has the following. The first thing I'm hoping for is that the lack of steam pressure will allow the water to cool The cheapo plastic radiator tanks Honda uses will no longer burst at the seams as they do now. In the same way, the coolant hoses should be checked. (If multiple prior failures have been caused by internal pressure Using Evans has a very low risk of failure due to fatigue, but the risk of failure due to contraction fatigue is unknown. Additionally, I like the following In this coolant, there is no water As it doesn't age and allows internal corrosion, it's thought to be toxic to pets.
I am fortunate that my Civic's cooling system only has a capacity of 1, so it can cool more efficiently. It costs less than 1 gallons to run Evans, so the additional cost is relatively small, especially in light of the cost of blown head gaskets that can occur if the cooling system fails. In a similar vein, motorcycles should offer benefits as well. If I had a classic truck powered by an SBC, the pros would be the same but I would also have the ability to continue conduction heat away from the motor even if the system spiraled up to 240 degrees F. The 260F range is where coolant cavitation can cause hot spots in the engine, which can cause the engine to fail. I am waiting for the next coolant change cycle before swapping to the SBC system, but even at five times the cost (plus any prep fluid costs), the cost is modest when compared to the risks of catastrophic engine failure if I use The conversions that I have done require the heater core valves to be opened and the engine thermostats to be removed, followed by a small shop vacuum blowing all coolant out of the system after the initial drain. My subsequent coolant refractive test showed that I started with the shop vac running for about 30 minutes and that I could have cut it down to only 15 minutes. I am glad to say that the coolant levels are now below the recommended maximum 3% water content.
Evans NPG+ provides the same functionality. On the back of the original label is a small print that confirms An approval label appears on the back of the revised label stating that it is approved for Rotax aircraft engines. Never let anyone sell you NPG+ at absurdly inflated prices for a 912 if it is new old stock. You will see a higher degree of heat buildup with this coolant than with conventional coolants. It is LESS effective than water in terms of its thermal conductivity. BUT the boiling point of this coolant is much higher, meaning that it will protect you from potentially damaging hot spots and vaporization of your coolant inside your head. Is what it is supposed to be.
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