WINKA T10 W5W 194 LED Bulbs Sockets Pre-Wired Harness Connector Adapter for Auto Car 6PCS
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It's 22 awg, as far as I'm aware.
Halogen bulbs are an option, but they are much hotter and use a lot more energy. I installed mini LEDs, which perform admirably. I use them to replace the flames in my Tiki Torches in the backyard.
Yes, they are compatible with any 12V DC system.
Selected User Reviews For WINKA T10 W5W 194 LED Bulbs Sockets Pre-Wired Harness Connector Adapter for Auto Car 6PCS
These sockets are of such poor quality that they are unfit for use. Please see the image to the right, which compares a standard socket to this product. The prongs are misaligned to the point where a bulb cannot be inserted into the socket without breaking it. They're also so misaligned that even if they did accept a bulb, they'd cause a short. I assumed there was only one bad socket in the packet, but there are six of them. I will request a full refund because the product is defective and completely useless.
These T10 bulb sockets can be used for a variety of purposes. On my 1980 Triumph TR7, I was replacing some out-of-service bulb sockets. br>br>The lights in question are the ambient lighting for the heater controls, which aren't backlit from the factory. The original style bulbs produced poor light when used through the old green lens ports. It originally had Lucas 286 bulbs, but LED BA7S bulbs could be used instead. The problem is that the BA7S LED bulbs I found are complete garbage, producing even less light than the stock 40-year-old incandescent bulbs! br>br>The only option was to make minor changes to the lighting system. I'd use five of these sockets and a set of nice bright blue T10 LED bulbs. The heater necessitated four lights, while the cigarette lighter socket necessitated only one light. Because these sockets and bulbs are larger than the originals, I removed the original metal heater light brackets and enlarged the cigarette lighter socket bulb clip to accommodate one of these sockets with an LED bulb. The factory wires were then snipped at the source, and a quick connect plug was added. All of the parts were kept and boxed so that they could be quickly returned to their factory original state if necessary (always a good idea!). Then I used a hot glue gun to secure the four heater light sockets in place after attaching new wires to the bulb sockets. Although the hot glue gun was not my first choice, it was quick and easy to remove and performed admirably. The T10 LEDs were then installed, and the dash was reassembled. br>br>These sockets worked flawlessly and did exactly what I needed them to do, even though that wasn't their original purpose when I purchased them. All of my instrument lighting is now a bright, easy-on-the-eyes blue, which is a significant improvement over the factory's barely visible dull green lighting. br>br>I wanted to give an example of the million and one uses for these light sockets: if you wanted to add multiple under dash lights, extra trunk (boot) lights, or anything else, these are inexpensive and simple to install. T10 bulbs are also common and inexpensive, and replacing up to six lights in various areas of your car with them will almost certainly be less expensive than a Big Mac value meal at McDonalds. br>br>All I can say is that I need to order more of these because I want to try out more lighting ideas.
Check out the customer feedback. What are your thoughts on the characteristics? Is it possible to be bright? There is no light produced. Is there any such thing as utterance? Because it's black rubber, it's quite opaque. Is it simple to set up? br>br>I was aware that I was purchasing bare-bones sockets that would require some work to make them usable for my project. Some things to keep in mind are:
1. 12AWG is used to print the copper wire. It's not copper, and it's definitely not 12AWG. CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) wire with a gauge of 22 or 24AWG. If the wire size is incorrectly labeled, the temperature rating may be equally accurate.
2. The socket structure is made up of the bulb you'll be plugging in. It will keep the contacts in place so that the light can work. If the socket is connected to power without a bulb in place, it may short out, as others have stated. If you forget this and go to replace a burned out bulb in a hot circuit, you might have a problem in the future.
3. Stripping the insulation should be done with extreme caution. The conductor is made up of fourteen 0. 25 mm strands. You can't afford any strands to be lost with 0063" wire. Having said that, by changing the wires, I was able to make these work for my purposes. Good luck and be aware of what you are purchasing.
br>The OEM part had four copper fingers that held and powered the light, and I couldn't get the replacement light to work because the fingers had bent. To fix it, I cut off the fingers and soldered this socket to the copper terminals that remained. I confirmed that the light now works when powered directly from the battery, but I must have briefly shorted the circuit while trying to get the fingers to work, because it turns out that this glove box light is not powered through the fuse box, but rather through a fusible link in the wiring harness, according to the more knowledgeable internet users. Because replacing the harness necessitates disassembling the dash board around the glove box, I may not be able to complete this task for some time.
The wires are thin, as others have stated in reviews before I purchased these. But knowing that I purchased them, as well as some heat shrink connectors with solder built in, I was able to splice them together quickly and securely. They slid right into place in the factory and stayed put. I was able to replace the two worn out and broken sockets, as well as the two that had not yet broken, for less than the cost of one from the dealer. I don't mind the short wire because I'm using led bulbs, which use less energy than halogen bulbs.
You get what you pay for, according to the adage. Two of the six were damaged upon arrival, one of which was shorted and had no bulb. The four others worked fine, but I wouldn't expect them to last through many lamp replacements. One bulb was impossible to get into the socket due to bent pins on the inside; the other four worked fine but I wouldn't expect them to last through many lamp replacements. Best wishes to you.
I replaced the side parking indicator lights with leds and upgraded the license plate bulbs from 89 to 194. It is a more common bulb that is also less expensive and easier to locate. br>br>They worked perfectly and were relatively simple to set up. br>br>Now, on a 38-year-old legend, I have modern leds. br>br>Extremely pleased with the outcome.
It met my needs perfectly. I only have two more lights to add, and I'm not sure where I'll put them.
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