Tusk Clutch Holding Tool
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Yes, I will attempt to do that.
Since I've bought it, I've used it on 15 different motorcycles. So far I have not tried it out on a 1980's GS but it does seem to work on anything as long as there is room for it to clamp between the pegs and ears. You seem to have holes in the middle of the hub, so the pegs should fit on it.
I don't know, it seems like most clutches are like this. In a similar way, I ground down a tool from my previous experience, to fit into the outer drum groves and grip it This is normal
That should be possible, as I have used it on 85s all the way up to my cr500.
Selected User Reviews For Tusk Clutch Holding Tool
I found it rather sketchy when I used it on my 2001 RM250. I agree with those who had commented that the clamps were a bit It can be difficult to get it to grip a basket safely if you don't adjust the settings. Although I did not grind the clamps down, I was very close to this. Adjusting it was quite easy, so I just kept fiddling with it until it was flush with the basket and far enough in. Although it took some time to set up, this was a very effective tool, but it might not be convenient for every application. Even people who are planning on using the "DIY" method will benefit from this because it is far less time consuming and much cheaper than trying to handle it on their own.
To make room for the prongs, you can use a proper tool or grind out notch.
That's exactly what I was looking for to keep my K2 GSXR 1000 running. It requires two special tools, according to the service manual. Two clutch baskets are required one to hold the starter clutch and one to hold the clutch basket. The Suzuki tools cost close to $300, according to my online search. Here's what I found while searching on Amazon. I was able to use this tool to hold the clutch basket and then flip it over to hold the starter clutch. It does exactly what the two special tools from Suzuki do, but at a much lower cost. You must have this if you plan on doing any work to your motorcycle engine. I'm not sure if it will work on other motorcycle makes, but I have had no problems on my 2002 GSR. I've included an instruction on how to use the product (see the pictures).
The total opposite of what we want! It would not even fit in the clutch boss because the grooves in the pliers did not grip correctly! My brand new clutch boss has been scrapped and slid. I'm so sorry.
On my KTM clutch replacement, I did have to use my Dremel to smooth up the jaws a bit, but otherwise everything went smoothly.
I had to grind the 8mm studs off and tap new holes and just screw in some 6mm bolts for completion when I had a Yamaha warrior 350, so I used 6mm bolts, instead of the 8mm ones. Once modified, the clutch worked great except for the fit with my specific clutch.
It requires you to remove something like a 22mm nut before you can take off the primary sheave. According to my research, it is somewhere between 85-95 It is 90 lb. or 90 ft. It spins when you remove the nut, so take that into consideration when removing The sheave was pretty tight, and applying 90 ft-lbs of torque at the same time was quite a challenge. However, with the tool, I was able to lock the tool on the sheave and loosen the nut as I went. If I hit the tool against my floorboard, the whole unit would not spin. That was exactly what I was looking for to get the job done without being overly fussy. In addition to the two small posts, it also has a hole in it and can be used to hole things like that. For those specific types of jobs, this is very useful!.
It is nice to use the right tool for the job, even if you can get away with using other things. For my 2005 CRF250R rebuild, I used this and I am very satisfied.
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