Rectifier 4 Wires Voltage Regulator Replacement for Boat Motor Mercury ATV GY6 50 150cc Scooter Moped JCL NST TAOTAO
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You can use a 35w halogen bulb with it
Nevertheless, the device is only rated at 4A, meaning it has 50W of power capacity. It would be better to get a full wave rectifier and choose one that is rated higher if you plan to add electrical stuff to your car. It should be enough for LED headlights, but will not be enough to power a stereo, etc. If your motor has a stator, then you will have a limiting factor.
It's not clear to me. There is a pretty small regulator in this system, designed to run an electric moped. It would seem that 80-90 would be a decent estimate Maximum power of 100 watts.
Selected User Reviews For Rectifier 4 Wires Voltage Regulator Replacement for Boat Motor Mercury ATV GY6 50 150cc Scooter Moped JCL NST TAOTAO
A few days ago, I installed the most amazing rectifier regulator. A dual sport kit from Baja Designs was installed on the Honda XR650R I own. A baja designs branded regulator that was over ten years old Currently they have the same part that I have installed on my bike for $60 on their website, so I decided to give it a shot. Was it worse than it could be? The bike can now turn on all the lights AND charge a small 12v sealed lead acid battery to keep the lights on when the engine is off, thanks to this part. No load on this rectifier produces a rect reg that stabilizes RPM between mid/low and 6vDC. While idle, it puts out around 13 watts. Depending on the idle speed, 2vDC fluctuates a bit. When all the lights are on, the voltage seems to remain between 12 and 13 volts. This is the fifth week of the month 13 volt DC. I have only been using it for a few days, but so far it is holding up well. The length of time it lasts will be added to this review if/when it stops working. Note
In the last year, I installed 3 LED light bars on the bike. As the headlight is on high beam and all of the LED lightbars are on, the lights flicker on low RPM but when I hit the gas, all of the lights become steadily bright (I may have overwhelmed the system with all those As I used my bike to get to work almost daily, it has been in great shape! bought another of these to keep in my bag of spare parts for the bike. Because I already spliced the plastic wire harness on the bike, the first one that I bought may fail during a weekend camping trip so I can conduct a quick plug and play repair on the trail. This cheap replacement has so far been a great choice for me.
The factory mounting lug worked perfectly with the adapter. We simply cut the factory plug off the old rectifier and spliced it in. It would be great if the current could be used to charge a cell phone or GPS through a USB plug My research showed that cell phones could not be charged without a battery in the circuit. Without a battery in the circuit, there was too much interference in the output. There is no fault on the rectifier in this case. The battery is charged just fine, and it will charge the cell phone as well if there is a battery in the circuit.
It rectifies ac power quite well. the only issue is that since it's half wave, despite powering it with a full bridge rectifier beforehand it still puts out only 8vdc at idle and only about five volts at maximum speed. There must be some sort of a contradiction here, because it seems to be exactly the opposite. So I'll try using a capacitor, but all that will do is to keep the flickering at high speeds to a minimum.
The Coleman BT200x minibike I'm using it on can put out 8 volts The thing says it needs 20v AC to run, and it's at 13v when running It uses a 30v AC input, but produces 13-amp power even with the low voltage This is a 14 volt DC system. My LED lights flicker a bit when the engine is running, but it's enough to power two 18watt flood lights when it's at speed. Will update this review if it dies on me, but so far it seems to be working well.
What it says it will do is what it does. The only problem is that it is almost impossible to determine exactly what the pinout is on this unit. Nothing in the form of instructions. In such a case, it will be a bit confusing if you do not have a direct replacement. This is what I came up with It is grounded in green, it is powered by red for accessories and the battery, pink for the rotor, and yellow for the generator/stator.
I can run my lights with no battery every time the bike is idled or running, so I can get 14v out of it.
Despite the lack of wiring diagrams, that information can be found online and on this site. There is even worse news it is only a half wave rectifier, so it doesn't output About 6 out of 10 were correct. Definitely an OK product for the right application, but the documentation is not good enough to tell what the right application might be.
It is used on my 125 SSR with a Lifan motor. I bought it along with a LED light and a killswitch to turn on and off the light. Worked great for me!.