Pro-Line Racing 608700 Extended Front and Rear Body Mounts for Slash 4 x 4
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Questions & Answers
Yes, I have a 4x4 lcg chassis for mine.
Your inquiry is illogical.
I ended up with a hole that was just a smidgeon smaller than a typical body post hole. Why? While putting the body on, it was difficult to locate the holes. It also helped to have some breathing room. Also, because the posts flex a little, it was necessary to make the body holes a little bigger to prevent binding after use. They'd also work well with regular body-building supplements. The flat area, top nut, and post-sized holes are all generously sized.
Yes, they're compatible with the Slash 4x4. It makes no difference what kind of motor you have.
Selected User Reviews For Pro-Line Racing 608700 Extended Front and Rear Body Mounts for Slash 4 x 4
There are two posts for the front and two for the back, and they are all different lengths for some reason. I bought them for my slash because I wanted to use two of them. I put 8 tires on it, maxed out the front, and it wasn't quite long enough, and I had the rear set to where I wanted it, but the posts were sticking through the bottom so far that they hit the camber links when the suspension was compressed, so I had to cut them. I decided to get a new J-post after setting the posts and realizing I was still having problems with tire rub and a high center of gravity. I was able to lower the posts by using a Concepts body with wider wheel wells. Then I decided to put the longer posts in front because there was more room for the bottoms of the posts to stick through, which meant I didn't have to cut them as short when it came time to shorten them again. I understand that the rear body posts must be long due to the extra length required by SUV bodies, but I'm not sure why the fronts are so short. Aside from the issue with the front posts, I like the design of the caps replacing the clips. Clips can rip through the body, but these caps have a larger contact area, which spreads the stress across the body and prevents it from cracking. They also tighten all the way to prevent the body from rattling against the body posts. They could be fantastic if they just lengthened the front posts. It's also possible that the caps will clash with certain body types. I had to drill the holes in the back of the j concepts BAJR body a millimeter or two inwards, or else a ridge in the body would have prevented the cap from being screwed in.
The stock body mount posts aren't long enough for the thicker plastic. Because the posts are longer, these body mounts are superior to stock in this regard. br>br>However, I continue to lose caps. To keep these things from falling off, you've got to really crank them down. Even so, I have to tighten them once or twice during each session. During one session, I unintentionally misplaced two of the four caps, then took a tumble, putting too much force on one of the body mount bolts, stripping the plastic. br>br>It's not a great design, but if you need taller body mounts or longer body mount posts, it might be your only option. The longer posts will interfere with the suspension on a Slash 4x4 with a standard short course truck body, as others have mentioned. You can minimize the problem by putting the longer posts first. I finally cut the posts to length with a utility knife.
These body mounts are very attractive to me. They were persuaded to include two. On my Slash 4x4, I have 8 sand paw tires. The only thing I don't like about them is that they can't be moved closer or farther away from the midline (factory mounts have two positions for wider and narrower shells). br>I also had to shorten mine because they were too long and would collide with the controller arms when the shocks fully compressed. This isn't the fault of the mounts.
These are not adjustable in width like the stock body mounts. Because the front mounts on the stock slash 4x4 are slightly wider than the rear mounts (by about 1/4 inch), they won't fit without poking some additional holes in the front of your slash canopy. This isn't a deal-breaker, but it's also not a deal-killer. either as a replacement.
Now, I understand that these were designed for a slash, but I saw them and thought to myself, "I wonder if I can make these work on my cc-?" So I went on a search for some stock parts for the cc-150. I was hoping to use some of my other bodies on this rig, but I couldn't find any. There didn't appear to be any. So I purchased these in order to see if I could modify them to make them work. It wasn't difficult to come up with a solution. Basically, I put them together and then drilled a hole in the bottom of them to line up with the mounting holes on the cc01 chassis. I had to trim about 3/4 of an inch off the bottom of both to get the bodies to sit the way I wanted them to, but it worked out perfectly. I hope this information proves useful to anyone interested in trying something new.
I'm going to have to agree with the others. I didn't think much of the retainers because they only lasted a few tar sessions. Light dirt scrubbing revealed how easily these come off and how easily they get lost in the dirt or grass. You should save your money and look for something else to do with it.
I'm new to RC trucks, but I thought the body height of the Slash was far too low for my liking when I bought it. People have also claimed that the inside of the body rubs against the plastic nerd bars on the frame's side, and that tires rub against the inside of the wheel wells (due to the body's low position). br>br>What I did was put the extenders on and inserted toothpicks into the holes (perfect fit) to allow you to place your body on the mounts and adjust the extender arms as needed for the perfect height. Also, the pins that screw into the tops of the mounts where the caps screw down should have about an eighth of an inch sticking out the top (don't screw all the way in); As a result, you'll be able to tighten the caps. The kit also includes four small rubber washers that go over the pins to keep the caps in place while they crash around. br>br>The arms are flexible, as they should be, and you wouldn't want super ridged body mounts anyway, as they'd snap off after a single good hit. Because the rear arms are too long for the Slash, I cut the overhang with a handsaw after final setup to avoid interfering with the rear A arms and suspension movement. Overall, I like this kit, and I believe it is a viable option for raising or lowering the body on your RC car.
I like the concept, but it doesn't seem to fit in with the body "easily. " A proline bajar body and a Silverado with pre-existing pre-existing pre-existing pre-existing pre-existing pre-existing pre a lot of holes there They do the job, but I've discovered that they come off easily. I've already lost one of my children's names, and I have two more on my list. I suppose I'll go back to pins.
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