2pc 2.5" Amber Round Trailer LED Clearance Marker Lights [DOT FMVSS 108] [SAE P2] [Reflector Lens] [Grommet] [Flush-Mount] [Waterproof IP67] Marker Clearance Lights for Trailer Truck
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The rubber seal is black, and it goes into a two-part system. The hole is 5 inches in diameter.
Although the number of lumens is not specified, the lights are extremely bright.
We are unable to provide wiring for these lights due to a lack of inventory. Please keep in mind that LED lights must be connected in series, not parallel.
Selected User Reviews For 2pc 2.5" Amber Round Trailer LED Clearance Marker Lights [DOT FMVSS 108] [SAE P2] [Reflector Lens] [Grommet] [Flush-Mount] [Waterproof IP67] Marker Clearance Lights for Trailer Truck
Here's the issue if you're buying these as "REPLACEMENTS" for a factory-built trailer. br>Both the light and the pigtail are fine; they're both "standard" in size and fit. However, the rubbergrommet requires a 3" hole where 95% of all factory built trailers use "TruckLite" components that only use a 2. The grommet will be seated in a 75" hole. So, in order to use the light's grommet, you'll have to grind out every hole. On a trailer with 9 or more lights, that wasn't going to happen. Because the center has already been removed, using a hole saw is not an option. br>br>As far as the lighting is concerned, it appears to be adequate.
There are two of them. Lights with a diameter of 5" that can be inserted into 3" holes. I'm glad I read other reviews that said these were difficult to install because it helped me come up with a better plan, and the installation went off without a hitch. They look great, and they come with a plug on the light for existing two-prong plugs, as well as an additional male prong and wire lead in case you need it. The light's connection already had dielectric grease applied to it. br>How to set it up:
1. (The steel on this older CM work bed is thick, so I used a grinder to make a slight bevel. )
2. In the inner ring (not the rim facing outward), cut 8 slits. The slits have no effect on holding power once installed, allowing you to get a smaller section in and hold it while you work on the next.
3. Connect the light (yes, it's that simple. ) I almost forgot about it because I was so focused on the installation)br>4. An allen wrench or a smooth tool with a wide blade screwdriver can be used to work on the rim. Just a combination to avoid puncturing or tearing the material, but you'll still need to push with some force on occasion. br>The photos were taken on my first attempt at this method. Within two weeks, the second light will be installed. After 3 minutes, the bevel is finished. br>It was simple to install, and the product appears to be of good quality, so I'm about to place another order. br>Updated on August 5, 2021, 2. All of these lights are still working and are as bright as they were on day one, 5 years later.
They simply did not fit, so I went to Nappa and found a similar size with grommets that did fit. br>I contacted the manufacturer, who stated that they had never had such an issue. It's a problem! If I can go to a farm and fleet store or Nappa Auto Parts and buy the parts that I know fit or are considered standard application, the manufacturer has basically said there's something wrong with my truck. br> br>I don't believe the grommets are correct, as I previously stated. I can go to the part store and get the right size ones, which they consider to be the norm, but these simply did not fit.
The light itself is excellent, with several bright LEDs as opposed to the three LEDs found in most TSC or Northern Tool lights. However, and this may be due to installer error, there is no way to install these using the standard a 2 grommet. Without damaging the rubber or breaking the light, a 5" opening can be achieved. So, rather than grinding out the hole to fit the supplied grommet and light, I went to Northern Tool and purchased replacement grommets that fit snugly in the OE hole with the marker light inserted. I'd just go ahead and get the two. Next time, buy the rubber grommet separately and use the 5 light on its own.
Because the rubber grommets were sturdy but stiff, soaking them in boiling water for a minute or two made it easier to fit them into the 3" holes where the old lights used to be. The grommets' diameter was just right, and they conformed to the dents in the surface around the holes. The grommets' outer face was large enough to cover the old lights' three screw holes. Some of the screw heads had broken off, but the back side of the grommets was small enough that any protruding screws were not an issue. br>On the electrical socket where the pigtails connect, there was plenty of lube/sealant. Each pin on the pigtail has a double rubber seal, and it can be attached in either direction. They can be attached to the light before it is installed in the grommet, making proper pigtail attachment easier. The lights are snugly tucked into the grommets.
The grommets were a tight fit (which I think is a good thing), but I'm confident they're secure, as are the lights they hold. The lights are attractive, and the reflector performs admirably. This will remain a five star review as long as the lights last. br>br>I purchased these lights for the side markers and another brand for the 4" round rears. I ended up returning the other brand's 4" round lights and purchasing this brand after comparing the quality: these lights fit snugly in the well-made grommet, have copper wiring of an appropriate gauge, and dielectric grease is pre-applied. installed on connectors that slid into the lights like a glove The other brand had thin aluminum wiring, no dielectric grease, a connector that barely held on to the light (I was planning to glue it on), and a grommet that fit loosely enough that I could easily push a light out with one finger (I was thinking of gluing them in as well). For the reasons stated above, I suggest spending a little more money and getting these lights.