CURT 14011 Class 4 Trailer Hitch, 2-Inch Receiver, Compatible with Select Ford Excursion

I bought this for the truck. I really like the fit of the hitch. There are a lot of people reviewing this saying that it takes a lot longer than it should to install. In my opinion, the installation time appears to be just right. It will take about half an Nevertheless, in the installation instructions for the hitch, it tells you to remove the old hitch before you install the new one. It will take anyone hours to remove the old one, unless they're strong enough to torch off the two bolts that are an inch and a half from the plastic As someone who has worked on old beaters his entire life, I already knew that, so I wanted to do the prep and painting of the frame surrounding the fuel tank and where the hitch bolted to anyways while the fuel tank was The thing that was a problem for me with the hitch is that no nuts are provided. Assuming someone is replacing a rotten old trailer hitch, like my own, and they point out that factory nuts can be used. Is the metal in good shape all over the hitch? Let's be honest, why would I replace a hitch that was in good condition? Is the color not my taste? I do not believe the bolts they sent would have fitted the stock nuts on my 2001. Curt wanted to save $1, so I guess he wanted to save. My bolts were 46. I went to Tractor Supply, as they're the cheapest place in the area for Grade 8 bolts. There's a pound sale going on, so check it out. As I didn't want to go smaller than stock, I had to buy all new bolts, lock washers, washers, and nuts. They only sold SAE Grade 8, so I had to buy all new bolts, lock washers, washers, and nuts. Since the holes on the frame are larger than stock, I had to use a 3/4" drill bit to drill them out. It was possible to fit a large vehicle through the hitch holes. The bolt was inserted and is now in place. My stock hitch's wiring plug holder thing has also been moved to the new hitch. ****The last complaint I have with Curt hitches, is that the pin hole is prone to wearing out over time. I have a class V curt hitch, towing about 60% of its rated capacity, and it still happens. The summary is Buying a brand new hitch that fits perfectly, AND shipped it to my door in two days for $220 + $15 for new hardware, + $15 for a 3/4" drill bit, adds up to You also have the stock hitch and the Curt hitch on the market (Identical as far as I can tell, except the ends of the hitch body are open instead of closed, which may have contributed to rotting in the first place, and both I have also heard of the torque lift hitch, which is also very nice, and it is also very expensive, with a towing capacity that is much larger than the truck is capable of. This was the only choice I considered. Buy two of everything, and your cost will be at least $100 under the cost of the two other options. Buying this hitch is a good idea, but you need to be aware of the missing nuts.

Valentina GRIFFITHS

| Jul 04, 2021

Curt assumes that you will keep the product after washing it, but the product fits well I would use the factory nuts. The hitch is probably being replaced due to rust, and the nut is unlikely to come off easily. A torch is the most efficient way to remove the old hitch. To get started, you'll need to do these things. 2) The factory trailer wiring is attached to a plate that wraps around Located on the hitch beam, this plate is bolted in place. Unlike other hitches, Curt's do not have a drilled and tapped hole. A hole will need to be drilled and tapped into the hitch beam, or you could weld it directly to the The welded piece is easy to weld, and you'll be touching up the paint anyway since Amazon ships this monster with no It must be removed 2) The fuel tank was to be removed. I like it because it is simple, but I do NOT have to take off the bumper. 2) You'll need to get 18mm 10, it's not included. It is recommended that 9 grade nuts be used as replacements for They are six in number. 4) With a pair of pry bars, you can remove the fuel filler hoses located near the leaf springs (at the bottom of the filler pipe). You'll need 6 heavy duty lock washers to replace the plates welded to the factory nuts. can leave them inside the fuel door without needing to remove them. If you tried to remove the tank with the hoses attached, it would be difficult. This product is good, but Curt needs to focus on the wiring bracket hole and increase the quality of the hardware.

Kamdyn Rice

| Nov 13, 2020

It's not a 2000 Excursion, so the curt instructions may be inaccurate. Approximately 1/2 of the bolts are covered by the gas tank shield, which holds the tank up. We had a big job removing the old hitch--we had to remove the bolt that held it in place. With a plasma cutter, I worked for more than a day with a wall and a drill and grinder. It is either necessary to remove the entire gas tank, which is about 40 gal, and 300 lbs, or simply to remove the four bolts holding the rear bumper. It is easier to repair the nuts flanges if the tank is removed. The other option is to remove the rear bumper, loosen the rear support bolts for the gas tank shield, and manipulate the bolt head to reach the head of the nut. From the rear of the vehicle, remove the nuts and flanges. It is probably best to remove the entire tank when it is done by a professional, but that will likely take two hours off and then one hour to install the In the hands of an amateur, this is an eight-hour or more job. The bolts were rusty old, so they were torch removed, and the nuts and bolts were replaced with 3/4 grade 8 Probably the easiest way to remove the Gas tank is by unscrewing the bolts. If possible, empty the tank as much as possible, acquire or obtain a removal tool for the gas lines, and disconnect the filler tubes, pump lines, and power supply lines. it has been removed, mounting it will be easy. This is a job that will take 8+ hours. I wish you the best of luck!.

Arabella Paul

| Jun 12, 2021

Despite lying about the application, Curt got the job. A hitch is delivered with hardware that is not compatible and installation instructions that are incorrect. On the early Excursions (I'm not sure when they changed them mine is a 2000 and it has the smaller bolts) Ford used smaller bolts. You are supposed to use the welded nut plates from your truck with the hardware kit since it comes with 18mm bolts. I had to use 14mm bolts, which was impossible with my truck. However, the instructions don't explicitly mention this discrepancy or how it should be dealt with. A statement in the advertisement claims no drilling is needed. You wonder what you are missing if you do not have access to this information. Despite what you may think, you don't need Despite the fact that this hitch would be compatible with all Excursions it does not really apply to all models. I'm sure the hitch fits fine, but the hardware they send you is wrong, the instructions won't explain what needs to be done, so THEY'RE wrong, and lastly the ads are false. Curt didn't bother to make a smaller model number for the smaller hardware because Ford used different hardware for the Excursion's lifetime. There was no explanation in the instructions of any of this. In the event you wish to use the factory hardware on a 1999-2000 Excursion, you will have to drill the hitch AND visit the hardware store to obtain additional nuts.

Bear Roth

| Apr 14, 2021

I changed them to 3/4 inch bolts and they fit in a 2001 excursion without any modification. You should be prepared to deal with that if you cannot take the bolts out since in a small community it is not easy to find metric nuts. It is well made and very heavy, however I wish it came with nuts just in case! Overall, this hitch is very solid and very heavy, so I give it 5 stars.

Mina Patrick

| Oct 17, 2020