Master Lock 1480DAT Stainless Steel Receiver Lock for 5/88221; Receiver Hole
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I used a hollow metal piece after my lock seized up. After removing the rubber boot from the end, I slid the handle (of the floor jack) over the lock cylinder. This worked easily. It came off after I bent back and forth three times. I was afraid of damaging the receiver hitch with the grinder, but you could use a grinder as well.
Inside each shelf pack quantity of 4 receiver locks, they are shipped keyed differently. It is unlikely that two locks with the same key code would be found in the same pack because key codes are shipped randomly.
The 1480DAT would work fine on the Grand Cherokee as it has only a 2-inch receiver. The 1469 is more suited for 2 inch receivers. The receivers are 1/2 inch in diameter.
New keys are typically made with blanks like this
Selected User Reviews For Master Lock 1480DAT Stainless Steel Receiver Lock for 5/88221; Receiver Hole
The first and most important complaint I have about this product is that I had difficulty attaching it to my vehicle My second concern is also with this product. I bought it late March 2018, and as soon as I removed it to change the ball on my truck, a lot of corrosion had developed. In the end, I used compressed air to blow out the lock and then tried to insert my key into it, but it was very difficult to get it to go all the way in, and once I did, it wouldn't As soon as I got home, I bought trinkets As I spray the spray lubricant, the key turned quickly, but would not turn. I folded the spray lubricant into a fold and sprayed it, but it was still not turning. In a subsequent phone call to master lock, I told them about my issue. They said, "We are a security company so we can't tell you how you can remove one of our locks without a key" so I thanked them and then drilled I was unable to use that method since this is a Master Lock, so I took a reciprocating saw to it and 20 seconds later the lock was lying According to my opinion and only my opinion, this product is not worth the cost, and after reading other reviews online, many others felt the same! In the event that you decide to buy it, you may want to consider buying a lubricant to spray inside the lock monthly to quarterly (and keep track of everything you do with it) to keep moisture out. Additionally, it has a moisture cap on the lock to keep it from corroding (just letting you know). Here is a link that may be helpful.
Initially, I installed this on my truck and had hoped to keep it permanently since I typically keep a receiver on it. The ball is usually left on a 2" receiver, but I recently had to swap the receiver for a smaller one, so the receiver lock had to be removed. The system has been in place for 1 year. The rubber protective cover was always covering the lock during the five years it has been in service. My initial reaction upon removing the rubber cover was to be happy to discover that the lock was not rusted and the key fit smoothly into the lock, however the locking mechanism would not move and with barely any pressure, the key broke off into the lock rendering After getting the hacksaw, the rod was cut all the way through in one swift motion. With the lock split in two pieces and thrown into the trash, I had it out of here in under 5 minutes. The lesson I learned here is that I will never buy a lock from the Master brand that stays.
As a frequent tower, I purchase this hitch for my Silverado 1500 so that I can leave it in the receiver all the time. The weather in New England can be punishing, so I wanted the stainless steel, weather-resistant version to avoid corrosion problems. After buying this lock, I had to buy another one because the lock cylinder corroded and seized, causing me to break the key from inside. I had to drill out the lock cylinder in both this lock and the one I purchased because they both seized after about 6 On the upside, the pin doesn't disappear if it is not corroded and does prevent it from corroding. Together with the locking tongue on your trailer, you can rest assured that your trailer will stay secure to your truck. In conclusion, take these words of wisdom into consideration. For the pin that goes into the lock, use WD-40 spray on the pin itself where it goes into the lock in the event you leave it in all year round There are times when you have to place 40 into the lock cylinder. Should you choose not to do so, you will be forced to drill out lock cylinders like I was,.
Unfortunately, I could not open the receiver lock with the key provided for it after installing Graphite was used to help unlock it but in the end it did not work. Luckily I was able to get the broken portion of the key out of the lock after breaking the key inside the lock. There is a cheap locking mechanism and a cheap pot metal key. In order for me to move forward, I need to figure out how to remove the POS from.
I purchased this lock and used it for a while, until I had to take it off for some reason and it was so corroded and rusted that I had to break it off and throw it away. You've got nothing to worry about. The rubber boot covering the key hole was left off due to my negligence and was attested to as Thus, I had to order a second one, and this time, I would ensure that the boot remained on throughout the entire instillation process I removed the boot to unlock it, and the key would not go in. I've had it on for about 6 months now. There was ice on the tumbler pins. In order to get the key into the keyhole, I had to spray penetrating lube on it and hammer it into place. Once I got it in, I had to turn the key forcibly in order to unlock the door. The side hole poured out a small mound of corrosion when it was pulled off. Oiled everything up to see if that would help it free up, and it did not. Despite making sure I was using it correctly, it corroded even as I made sure I was using it properly, so it's neither water-tight nor water-resistant.
That's fine. As a replacement for a steel locking pin, this was perfect (since the rubber covered the pin and it still worked perfectly! Figured it out. It is made of stainless steel and has a That's a pretty good combo, isn't it? That's not true! Waste of time and money! It appears that the pin is made out of stainless steel and the rest of it is made out of Even though I have yet to install it, here is what I've figured out so far It was difficult to use the keys. The first 40 or so insertions are in fact correct Dodling the lock with the key at least 40 times is not unusual. accompanied by resistance (almost sand) even after WD40 and 3M Drilube. The quality and workmanship of this product was terrible, not to mention the It is supposed that the barbell lock cylinder will make it easier for you to open, but the latch is a hindrance The ring that attaches to the pin is so loose that it spins and points In essence, this means that the very loose, rubber, so-called cover is face down. This is the perfect opportunity for the locking mechanism to corrode if it stays closed, and it won't. So it will collect moisture, actual water, salt and any other substance that comes off the road and soak the mechanism. It is useless. Due to my rented trailer and lack of time to order a new one, I have no choice but to use it. There is no choice. I will get a real one after my trip! If you can, stay away from this piece of garbage. The only way this could receive a 4 or 5 star rating is if it was horrible. The only reason I gave it three stars is that it will go into the hole and lock, so it's pretty good for a semi-truck Your hitch won't be stolen by an honest person or by a kid. You know it won't last, and it feels and looks like one good swing of the hammer will end it quickly and without much struggle. How good is a stainless steel pin if everything else will collapse due to rot They either get smashed off) or they get knocked around. There is no need to live in the desert unless you live there!.
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