CZC AUTO Hitch Clamp Anti-Rattle Stabilizer Heavy Duty Cross Clamp 2 Inch For Hitches On Trailers of Trucks SUV Vans RV, Hitch Tightener Clamp for Hitch Tray Cargo Carrier Bike Rack Trailer Ball Mount
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Yes, I believe the vehicle and adapter should work well together. However, I believe there is still some room for error between the bike rack and the adapter. On my hitch rack, I have a 250-pound motorcycle. It also maintains a strong hold on it. So I think you'll be fine with a lighter load.
In FT, I am unable to provide you with a torque rating. LBS. But I can tell you that I use a 1/2 drive ratchet with a 7/8 socket that is 12" long. And I press in as hard as I can to make it as tight as possible. The nuts and washers are doubled. So when I use it, I nut it twice. I've never had it come undone on me. I use a battery impact wrench to remove it for convenience and speed. I hope this has been of assistance. I can also tell you that I have a motocross bike in my truck, which is fantastic. The money was well spent. It keeps my hitch snug and secure. There is no bouncing or swaying from one side to the other.
It should not make a difference on the install if there is less than 1/16 of rubber around the 1/2 U bolt; if it does, you can trim off the rubber and just use the U bolt.
In short, the best way to position the nuts is to angle them toward the trailer, on the shank, when they are up. When the nuts are in place on the receiver, they should be angled toward the vehicle. This is demonstrated in a black-and-white photograph, and it is the best method because it relieves weight on the threads. All of the other images show the device holding up whatever you're towing, implying that it must also hold up whatever you're towing. Unless you're just using it for a bike, it'll probably fail, but for the longest life, I recommend going the other way all the time and forcing the male shank down, not up.
Selected User Reviews For CZC AUTO Hitch Clamp Anti-Rattle Stabilizer Heavy Duty Cross Clamp 2 Inch For Hitches On Trailers of Trucks SUV Vans RV, Hitch Tightener Clamp for Hitch Tray Cargo Carrier Bike Rack Trailer Ball Mount
I was impressed by the clamp's weight and quality, so I gave it high marks, but the factory receiver on my 2018 Ram 2500 is so small that the u bolt can't be hooked behind the flange. Before purchasing this item, carefully inspect your receiver hitch to ensure that it has enough room.
"Stabilizers" made of bolts and plates - All of them are a waste of time. This design actually grips the 12" extension I had to use for my bike rack to clear my spare tire, and it's simple to install with four bolts, two split washers, and two flat washers, and it can be installed inverted or upright (both work). It is without a doubt the best on the market.
My Boss Gen-Y's first hole was perfectly matched. When you spend over $1,000 on a hitch, you want to be sure it's safe. It's also difficult to find a hitch tightener that will fit the first hole of a Gen-Y in order to keep the length shorter.
My 2018 Grand Cherokee's factory hitch has a very tight tolerance for where this device can go. According to the product description, the distance between the U bolts is 3", which would be ideal for my needs. In fact, the U bolt is 3 3/8" long and can only be installed upside down, which is how I wanted to do it. You may argue that it isn't a big deal, but I am handy caped and rely on others for help, so changing receivers is a minor inconvenience, but it is still a problem. Aside from that, the device appears to be well-made and is well-coated to help prevent rust.
If you have more than 3/4" of hitch tube behind the reinforced collar, it won't fit receiver hitches. Material and construction, on the other hand, are of high quality. br>br>My hitch would not fit because there is almost no space available behind the reinforced collar and no space above between the hitch and the bumper. This is due to the hitch's design rather than the device itself. br>br>I was excited to use this design instead of the one with the lip on the plate because it appears to be much simpler and more solid. br>br>The only reason for 1- is that it's easier. The nuts had to be chased a little to move freely, so I had to chase the threads a little.
This is a fantastic idea because it has a more streamlined design than other anti-rattling clamps, allowing it to fit into tight spaces like where my pivot arm connects to my bike rack. I deducted a couple of stars because it's quite large, presumably to fit over receivers. There is a lot of extra, as you can see in the photos. It still aids in stabilization, but it does not have the same locked-down feel as the traditional stabilizer I have on my receiver.
As I upgraded my beach-going gear, this was a must-have add-on. going 4WD with a full-size spare tire on the hitch receiver The additional weight of the hitch mount and tire (a total of 140! ) necessitated the use of something to keep the setup stable. The CZC htich clamp is here to save the day! After experimenting with a few different configurations, I discovered the one that worked best for me. To properly torque the nuts, I used a breaker bar and a 3/4-inch deep socket. Everything is now sung in a bug-like manner.
It fit my Ford F150 perfectly, but it was far too large for my BMW X5. Unless you have enough room, I believe this is better for hitches larger than 2 inches. Unfortunately, it was simply too wide on my BMW.
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