3M Scotchgard Clear Paint Protection Bulk Film Roll 12-by-72-inches
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Making a template is the most effective method I've found. Depending on the vehicle, you may only need tape or you may require paper. Typically, I create a template, trace it onto the film, and then cut it out. Because there are so many curves in the light, I prefer to use making tape, which is similar to painters tape. There aren't many curves, so a paper-traced template might be the best option; I only do the face of the light when I do lights. Making a template takes some time, especially if you're doing it for the first time, but there's no risk of cutting, scoring, or scratching the light in the process. It works best for me, and cutting a template took a long time the first time I did it. I looked over a few sheets of paper. The tape method requires a lot of tape, but it is the simplest compared to trying to get paper to lay flat enough to trace and cut a template. Because I work in a body shop, I always have a large supply of tape on hand, and I've never used even a quarter of a roll. I apply the tape to the light's face and then peel it off in one piece, which serves as my template. Yes, doing curves takes a lot of pieces, but in many cases, especially with how curvy the lights can get, it's the simplest way to do it for me. I hope you found this information to be useful.
Depending on the bumper's size. I'd make a pattern out of it because it's 12" wide. Yes, bubbles will appear, but they will dissipate. The bubbles are small and difficult to see in my one-month experience.
I bought one 12-by-72-inch roll and had enough to cover the bottom half of four Nissan Altima doors.
Not easy. If you can find someone to remove it, it will be expensive. Several stores stated that they would not deal with it. Left at one store to be picked up the next day. It was completed in 5 days. They did an excellent job, but I'm not sure they'd do it again. We tried the hot gun, but it would have taken at least a month because it was factory installed as an option when we bought it.
Selected User Reviews For 3M Scotchgard Clear Paint Protection Bulk Film Roll 12-by-72-inches
It's great for high-traffic areas on the car or to protect older cars' paint. Patience and planning are the keys to getting it to fit properly. The film isn't perfect; it will appear shiny, but in a way that resembles the surface of an orange peel. It's not completely clear either; there's a slight yellow tint to it. Only a super white car will be able to see it. Overall, I enjoy the film; my only criticism is that the large sheets are a little pricey. br>br>I used this film to make the front bumper for my 1992 Miata. It has a lot of curves and is difficult to wrap around. If you have a particularly difficult surface to peel the paper off, winging it isn't going to cut it. Unrolling the film, taping it to the car with masking tape, and then planning how to cut it has proven to be the most effective method for me. To fit the bumper, I had to cut the film into three pieces. Make sure there's a lot of overhang on the edges. Only one edge of the panel should be followed. You don't need a perfect fit because you'll be hiding your mistakes behind lenses or fog lamps. It will never be perfect; you will simply become more adept at concealing your flaws. Spray some soapy water on a large flat prep surface (like your hood) once you're satisfied with the layout. Start peeling the backing off while spraying soapy water on the adhesive side of the film while flipping the material over so the film side is touching the prep surface. After removing the backing paper, liberally apply soapy water to the area where the film will be applied. Remove the film from the prep surface and gently flip it over so the adhesive side is now in contact with the surface. Spray the film with soapy water and use a squeegee to work from the center outwards. The soapy water will lubricate your squeegee and help it move the film across the surface without digging or gouging it. br>br>When positioning and squeegeeing the surface, take your time. Once the film has started to stick to the surface, remove any excess water with a microfiber towel and massage it in. Use masking tape to tension the film as it sets up if you have any trouble spots. br>br>Wrap corners and trickery areas that won't stay put with the water after the film has started to set. br>br>The most important thing to remember is to wait! You won't be able to wrap an entire bumper in a single sheet, so plan accordingly.
This is my second purchase of this product, and it has held up well after a year of use in wrapping my King shocks. The most important thing is proper installation, which means not using well or city water because as the water evaporates, mineral deposits are left behind, which will/can show through the wrap depending on what you're wrapping. br>br>I used distilled water in a spray bottle with a drop of Dawn dish soap and got excellent results with no air bubbles. When both the surface to be wrapped and the clear film were sprayed down, the installation was much easier. I wash my hands and make sure that whatever I'm wrapping is clean and ready to go. I then wash and wipe it down with an automotive grade wax/grease remover, let it air dry, and then install the wrap, making sure the installation area is clean. br>br>Once again, I wrapped my King shocks and shock reservoirs with this. The price of just my shocks is $6,800. The clear film is still in mint condition after ONE YEAR, and my shocks were polished before applying the clear film, and they still look the same. It significantly simplifies the process of cleaning my suspension. br>br>I've also used this wrap on my headlights without issue, as well as on the driver kick panel of our SUV, which eliminated shoe marks. I haven't had any up damage or discoloration in over a year. This is what I used on my car's rear quarter panels to prevent paint damage while racing. This clear film has a lot of uses, and if it can survive a year of abuse on my shocks, it'll be fine for headlights, clear bra protection, and so on.
The item is exactly what it says it is. It starts out simple enough to install, but it becomes more difficult as you get closer to the edges. I just finished working on a 2018 F-150 truck. 150 hood. The bumper was supposed to be the focal point, but I didn't order enough fabric. If you're going to do the hood, get a piece that's 18" wide. Anyway, this was my first installation, and I learned a lot from it. Take your time when making your R slip solution with the 3M mixture. It's best if you use filtered water. The tack solution works well with DI water because it adheres better. Use a firm squeegee to work the product. I finally decided on a window tinting one. I think the 3M PA1 is a little too soft. To contour the material to the hood on the outer edges of the installation, I had to stretch it out a bit. I tried to keep stretch marks to a minimum by using the palm of my hand. If I did everything correctly, only time will tell. This is undoubtedly one of the more difficult DIY projects. Simply take your time and keep the material wet as much as possible. It might be beneficial to have a second pair of hands the first time around.
Using video examples, one bottle of baby shampoo water and one bottle of alcohol water mix were used to make the hood bra for the 2018 Chevrolet Silverado. Repositioning was difficult due to the soap solution. I immediately began adhering to the rules. I barely made it in time to save some of the width and make it work, but getting all of the water bubbles squeegeed out is impossible. I'll end up puncturing and pressing down with a fine sewing needle. It hardly appears to be acceptable. You'd think that for $50, you'd get a product that wasn't damaged, but they had to know they sent it damaged on the edge. This is the last time I'll buy from this vendor.
This stuff clings to everything. I don't mean sticky in the sense of glue, but rather sticky in the sense of adhering to itself. I squandered half of the material by assuming I could cover a Camry headlight on my own. br>br>The material is nice and thick and would most likely keep nicks and chips from hitting the paint, but as I previously stated, if you are new to this, just hire someone to do it for you. This might work well on a flat surface, but it isn't worth the effort and heartache on a surface with curves and dips.