Permatex 80038 Prussian Blue Fitting Compound, 0.75 fl oz Tube, Package may vary
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That is not the case, in my opinion. It's more of an oil color pigment that can be cut with linseed oil and cleaned up with mineral spirits or another suitable solvent. It's used to check the clearance between close-fitting parts and the flatness of metal parts by rolling them on a flat surface and then laying the part to be checked for flatness on the flat surface. It's slid across the surface before being picked up and examined. High spots on the part that needed to be scraped or filed away were indicated by blue spots on the part. This process is repeated as many times as necessary until the part is completely covered in blue patches.
This is a non-drying marking compound that is used to ensure that mating surfaces are in contact. It could be used to inlet non-porous stocks, but because it's oil-based, it'll soak into the wood.
This product is primarily used to demonstrate points of contact between metal surfaces prior to final assembly and machining. It will turn anything blue it comes into contact with, but for wood finishing, I would recommend a non-drying prussian blue paint.
It's a deep royal blue, not a light royal blue.
Selected User Reviews For Permatex 80038 Prussian Blue Fitting Compound, 0.75 fl oz Tube, Package may vary
People who worked on valves on pre-war airplanes were the most likely to use this product. Cars from World War II I'm confident it's still used for that purpose. It can now be used in any fit application that requires the detection of "high spots" or interferences. br>The blue compound is applied to a surface that interferes with another surface. The high spot(s) is identified by where the blue rubs off.
On this most recent engine build, this stuff came in handy for a few tasks. I was able to see where the Jesel belt drive was making contact with the block and was able to grind that part away so the cover would fit flush. I was also able to use some contrasting Dykem on my intake manifold and compare it to the intake gaskets installed on the heads to see how much massage was required in the intake to match the ports to the cylinder heads. As a result, this is a useful item to have on hand. Especially if you're building an engine with a lot of aftermarket parts, because with stacked tolerances, you never know what you'll have to tweak or adjust to get things to fit or work.
Good product; however, when shipped with a 3 pound Silicon Grinding Wheel, it makes quite a mess! (It was shattered. ) I'd request a replacement tube, but that would require me to go through the "return the product" process, and I don't want to risk shipping the punctured tube back to wherever it came from. Maybe a bubble-wrapped piece of paper. It would have been nice if there was a wrap between the big wheel and the Prussian Blue.
This contact blue is about the same price as Dykem High Spot Blue, but it contains so little pigment that on tight tolerance parts, you can't tell the difference between it and mineral oil. Dykem is clearly visible in the same situation. It's also a little thicker and more difficult to clean up than the Dykem product. The only time I'd recommend it over Dykem is if you're trying to get it into Canada, where Dykem is reportedly unavailable. br>br>Dykem is a better option for almost everyone else.
Prussian blue is exactly what it says it is for marking layout and flattening.
This was purchased to assist in the creation of stock and inletting. It works great as long as you don't let it get all over the place or on anything other than the work piece. You'll only require a smidgeon of it.
This was required for a major head/valve job on my 2004 Acura TL (J32A3), and I needed it to ensure proper valve seating. It adheres to the valve like glue. seat of the valve If you're working on a valve, you'll need this.
For part fitting, it works well and is more readily available than Prussian blue. It's great for stocking up and in-between jobs. allowing actions to be taken on stocks.