Morakniv Wood Carving 122 Knife with Laminated Steel Blade (2.4-Inch) (M-106-1654)
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The 122 is what I'd go with. The straight blade is more versatile than the 120 or 106 blades. However, any of the three knives is a good knife; it comes down to personal preference. The 122 appeals to me because it provides me with greater versatility in terms of the types of cuts I can make as well as fine tip control.
For you, any kevlar glove will suffice. Knife hand: I cover my thumb and index finger with self-adhesive gauze tape; the kevlar glove is great for slices but won't protect you from pokes. Gauze tape on the thumb and index finger on both hands works exceptionally well for 90 of carelessness. The gauze tape does a good job of keeping the bandage in place for the other 2010 per other per other per other per other per other per other per other per other per other per% Because you have small hands, you should consider a Deepwoods Ventures - Scalpel. This is a great little hand-forged blade that isn't too pricey.
Yes, I would say it is suitable for both left and right handed people because it is a small blade. I own one and adore it.
They arrive in factory-sealed condition and are ready to use. However, sharpening it yourself is not a bad idea. This knife, along with a DC4 sharpening stone, makes a fantastic set.
Selected User Reviews For Morakniv Wood Carving 122 Knife with Laminated Steel Blade (2.4-Inch) (M-106-1654)
Soft woods will benefit from this treatment. Anything more abrasive than pine could cause the edge to chip. Update. The new knife was razor-sharp right out of the package. I've recently received a snoozer. I put it to work right away, and it sliced through basswood and pine like butter. This is fantastic. The majority of people who purchase carving knives will not go any further. When I tried to carve lacewood, I ran into a problem. It isn't particularly difficult, but the edge has recently begun to wear away. I'd have to reprofile the scandi edge with a secondary bevel if I wanted to keep it. The inner core steel is simply too hard, which is fine if you're just carving basswood or other soft "carving wood. " I've cut a lot of wood and the edge has never dulled to the point of causing hair to fall out of my arm. As a result, it's forgiving to people who are new to knives and aren't sure how to keep their edge. My recommendation. br>br> This is a good knife if you only plan on doing crafts with pine or other soft woods; it's a little wide for fine carving at difficult angles. But for a beginner, this will suffice; however, if you want to carve more exotic woods with unusual grain patterns or simply harder woods, I'd recommend something else. It's still a fantastic knife from a fantastic manufacturer. br>br>And if someone from Mora happens to come across this. I'd recommend lowering the inner core's hardness a little. It's brittle to the point of being dangerous. Because of the extremely fine tip, this is especially true. The knife's tip is just the inner core with no support, and I've read a lot of reviews where the tips simply break off where the layers meet. I'm not trying to offend you; I just wanted to share an idea. I'd rather have to reprofile a chipped edge than have to stone off a rolled edge.
I've previously purchased this Mora knife, as well as a few others. When it comes to buying a new knife, there aren't many things that will make me angry, but shipping the blade with rust spots is a definite no-no. I'll give you a star.
Carving in wood and antler is something I do a lot of. The shape of this knife is ideal for both roughing out and detail work. However, due to a factory tempering setting or method, the top portion of the blade will dull faster than the rest. This negative experience will be rendered null by simple stropping; There isn't a carving knife out there that doesn't benefit (or need) regular stropping while working on a project. br>I recommend this knife to all carvers, regardless of skill level. I strongly advise you to purchase the Morakniv 122.
I now own a total of three Moraknivs. Carving and whittling are new to me. The Mora 120 was the first knife I bought, and I loved it so much that when I decided to add to my collection and buy another, I went straight to Mora. I chose 122 because I wanted to see how the flat blade performed in comparison to the curve. It was razor-sharp and still had a thin layer of oil on it when it arrived. I was carving a semi-green piece of wood and it felt like hot butter to me. It glided through the wood like butter, and the flat blade allowed me to be more precise at the tip. The handles are nearly identical in terms of comfort and ease of use. br>br>I'll warn you that if you're used to carving with a blade like the 120, be aware that the blade on the 122 is exactly the same, with the exception that the sharp edge is on the long flat side rather than the curved side. Just a heads up, it almost caught me off guard a couple of times, and I was glad I had duct tape around my thumb, or it could have been stitches. These knives are fantastic, but they have a nasty habit of biting back! br>br>The shipping was lightning fast, arriving a couple of days ahead of schedule with the free shipping option.
When I first opened the box, the knife was sharp, but after a few swipes over some high grit sandpaper and a leather strop, it is razor sharp. Sharpening is simple with the large bevel, and the edge holds up well. I'm glad I got this knife because the handle is comfortable in my hand and the knife fits snugly into the sheath. I'm going to look into getting a Mora with a smaller blade. Although there have been times when I wished the blade was shorter, it has had no effect on my carving. Overall, this is an excellent knife, and I have become a Morakniv devotee!.
The sharpness was satisfactory, though there were a few rust spots, which I found surprising given that the blade had been oiled. I'll have to sand and oil the handle for comfort, and I'm a little disappointed it doesn't have the Made in Sweden stamp like my other one, because the quality of my 120 is excellent. I'm hoping it's made in the same way. I don't think it matters that the sheath is plastic; it's just for protection, and I'm not going to wear this on my belt; if I wanted to carve, I'd keep the sheathed knife in my pack.
I'd expect this level of poor quality control from a low-cost Chinese manufacturer and be able to work around it, but Morakniv is supposed to be among the best in the industry. These kinds of problems shouldn't be present in a knife that costs $25. Unless I received a used/returned knife, in which case the original packaging appeared to be in good condition.
I couldn't help myself and stropped it anyway, even though it was quite sharp out of the package. Then it kept its edge for a long time, which is impressive for such a low-cost knife. br>The plastic sheath is a complete waste of money, and it might as well not have come with one at all. The knife slipped out of its plastic sheath and landed pointy end first on the tile floor, so I spent an hour repairing the bent and dulled blade because I was holding it by its sheath. br>In the future, I'll keep the knife in its proper tool roll.
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