General Finishes Water Based Glaze Effects, 1 Pint, Smokey Gray
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Hello, I only use this as a glaze on top of my final color. Over milk paint in Halcyon Blue, this looks fantastic. If you want to go for a "distressed" look, make sure you have plenty of rags on hand to wipe away the product as soon as it dries. I would skip the top coat of poly because it has the potential to reactivate your glaze. I hope this has been of assistance.
Yes, it will happen. The golden oak cabinets are also in my possession. 2 coats van dyke brown glaze, dry brushed They appeared to be brand new cabinets after I mixed my own color scheme. They have a medium brown color to them. There's no gold showing through, and the oak grain isn't as distinct, but it's still stunning! The GF gel stain should be avoided. That's what I tried first, and it's a pain to work with. It was very simple to make the glaze.
I apply antiquing directly to the paint or stain, then wipe away the excess. You'd only have to start over if the wood was damaged (scratched or gouged), but those "faults" can add to the antique look.
This is a fantastic item. It is possible, but it is a skill that I would recommend practicing on cheaper scraps of wood several times. I was unable to achieve it because I am a perfectionist. I created the most stunning black kitchen cabinets myself, finishing them with the same line's water base clear coat, and the best way I can describe the feel of my cabinets is: If that's a word, it's buttery delicious. Try this: Apply a lightly sanded (clear coat-free) surface to a mix of vinegar previously soaked with wool fibers (YouTube it), and the stained wood will age according to its natural texture. This looked good on me, but I preferred the jet black look, so I kept it. I hope this has been of assistance.
Selected User Reviews For General Finishes Water Based Glaze Effects, 1 Pint, Smokey Gray
The kitchen was not completed in its entirety by me. It appeals to my tastes. I didn't finish the kitchen because I was debating whether or not I should. Our cabinets have been gnawed on for quite some time. There are gaps between them, the doors are warped in some places, and so on. But I tried it on one of the doors from the cabinet we got rid of after our new fridge didn't fit. It was a very simple procedure. I cleaned it, lightly sanded it, and painted it three times with milk paint. It was a lovely shade of off-white. Then I used a glaze from the same brand (from the GF video), which was a lot of fun to learn. After that, three coats of satin GF poly acrylic. It dried fairly hard in my opinion and should last a long time. I scratched the finish after it had cured to see how it would hold up to everyday use. The final product is quite impressive. I chose to write this review in the hopes of assisting someone in their decision-making process. I've included "before and after" photos.
I was doing some work on a large flat surface - the top of a large oval table It was made of wood that had been coated in polyurethane. The top was hideous, but it was mounted on a fantastic vintage wrought iron base. Anyway, I started by painting the table top with six thin coats of Poppy Beyond Paint (which I adore!). ) and let each coat dry for an hour before applying the next, then letting it all dry/cure for only 24 hours, the wood grain still showed through, though the color was solid, which was exactly what I wanted. I only needed latex gloves, wet paper towels, and a wide paint brush for the next step. Working in sections and wearing gloves, I worked quickly. I used a wet paper towel to smudge the glaze WITH THE GRAIN OF THE WOOD after painting it on over the dry paint with a brush. I ran the wet paper towel from one long end of the table (again, with the grain) to the other until I essentially had long streaks of glaze over the paint, with no smudges along the way, after the entire table top had been covered in glaze this way. It took on a bit of a random glaze and paint dominant look, which was exactly what I wanted. I waited an hour for it to dry completely. Then I did it all over again. I only let those two coats of glaze dry for another 24 hours before using terry cloth pads to apply multiple coats of water-based wipe-on poly. Spreading from one long end to the other, this time with the grain. Between coats, allow one hour. The total number of coats is four. It has been healing for quite some time. Before we use the table for anything, I'm going to let it cure for as long as I can manage. Meanwhile, the bottom line is that a once-tired-looking table has been transformed into something truly lovely! I'm excited to try glazing more things with different techniques; also, this is a great color, especially if you like antiques; even after just one project, I can see that it's a neutral that can be used to add dimension and age to any color base coat. You can use as much or as little as you want, and the effect is subtle. It's fantastic!.
My cabinets will love it! Simply apply with a damp rag; it dries quickly! Do small sections at a time.
After sanding the top thoroughly, I stained it with three coats of Van Dyke brown. Then I used Persian Blue paint from the same company to paint the shelf and used a sponge to apply a coat of stain over the (dry) paint. After that, I applied a clear coat, and it turned out exactly how I wanted it to! This is a beautiful dark brown stain with a nice sheen. It did a great job of concealing the bare wood on my shelf. Before I applied the clear coat, I took photos to show the stain's natural shine.
The first thing you'll notice is a cabinet that hasn't been finished. Then there's the cabinet, which is painted in Prestige Paint (Satin) Mozart Blue and looks fantastic on its own. Finally, I gave the cabinet a contemporary look by applying General Finishes Water Based Glaze Effects (black glaze). This glaze was absolutely stunning and incredibly simple to work with. My project turned out fantastically, and all of my months of research were well worth it. I'm so happy with how this paint turned out and how my cabinets turned out! This is a product that I HIGHLY recommend!.
For my table top, I had originally used a white wash look over my stain, but the whitewash made it far too white, so I added this glaze to tone it down, and it turned out beautifully.
I bought it to refinish our kitchen cabinets. I covered the old stain with General Finishes antique White (sanded first, of course), then glazed it in pitch black. With the glaze, you need to work quickly. To apply and wipe off, I found it easiest to use store-bought shop rags. I used the wipe all over and wipe all off method to clean my laundry cabinets. To achieve the textured look in my linen closet, I used a paint brush. Because it was unfinished/stamped wood, it absorbed the glaze very well, almost to an excessive degree. I first tried it on the backs of the doors, but it was too dark gray for me. On the front, I decided to use brush strokes. I also used multiple coats of top coat.
The first time I tried this product, I despised it. However, after learning how to work with it, I've grown to enjoy it. I find the brown color to be too light for my antiquing tastes, and it also peels away if you apply more before it dries completely. Obviously, letting it dry completely before reapplying is ideal, but if you're working on a larger project, you may need to overlap. I have another antiquing glaze that I think is too dark, so I've started combining the two to get the perfect antiquing color. I also use a chippy brush to apply it and a damp cloth to remove it. This method is the most effective for me because it allows me to better control the antiquing level.
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