DecoArt TG01-36 Triple Thick Gloss Glaze, 8-Ounce Triple Thick Gloss Glaze (Jar)
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You can use anything if your brush isn't shedding, but I prefer natural bristle for Triple Thick. Triple Thick is a self-contained, self-contained, self-con So that there are no streaks, leveling is necessary. This is my favorite product and I've been using it for years. Foam brushes, natural brushes, and synthetic brushes have all worked well for me. Use a brush that is specifically designed for Triple Thick and that you can reuse. A natural hair filbert is my go-to brush for smallish jobs; depending on the job, you may need small or larger. Acrylic is probably recommended because it's a little easier to keep clean. When you're done, soak your brush in a mug of water overnight before cleaning it. Then, under running water, rinse as much Triple Thick as you can, apply a small amount of liquid soap to the bristles, working it in as far as the ferrule allows, rinse thoroughly, shake or wipe dry, and reform the bristles with your fingers. It'll be ready to use again as soon as it's dried. I hope this has been of assistance. Warning: I live in the south, and I've discovered that when I use Triple Thick in extremely hot or humid conditions, it takes an eternity to dry and harden. During the hotter months, I use it sparingly. Remember to keep your project covered while it dries - It's fine to use a cardboard box if you have one - to keep the finish smooth and free of small flying insects, dust, and other airborne contaminants
I've been told to thin it down a little, let it dry between coats, and apply two coats; this appears to make the product last longer.
Water and dishwashing liquid are all that's needed to clean the brushes. br>I varnished and base-coated the item with the same brushes. br>As far as waterproofing goes, I'm not sure. It's a little difficult to work with because it's thick, but it doesn't leave brush marks.
This glaze is fantastic, but it must be applied correctly and, more importantly, allowed to dry completely. If you're working with polymer clay, for example, it's best to apply a thick layer quickly. To put it another way, apply a layer and wait for it to dry completely. After that, if necessary, add another layer. Allow at least 12 hours for a piece to dry in a cool, non-humid environment, and allow adequate airflow to an item that has been glazed when storing it. Some of my pieces have turned tacky for no apparent reason, but I've re-done them. I glazed the piece and it turned out perfectly; I don't think there will be any problems in hot climates if you let it dry for 12 hours. If you want to avoid any tackiness, you can make a semi-gloss glaze by adding water to the product (in a small cup) and this will drastically reduce tackiness. br>As far as heat resistance goes, I'd say yes, but make sure it's properly cured first.
Selected User Reviews For DecoArt TG01-36 Triple Thick Gloss Glaze, 8-Ounce Triple Thick Gloss Glaze (Jar)
such as, a smooth surface! It's incredibly simple to use! Make sure you clean your applicator (brush, etc. ) as soon as possible. I used 1/2 of a rock that I knew was beautiful when wet but bland when dry as a demonstration (see photo). I've only used one coat so far, but the difference is remarkable! Within 30 minutes, the surface had hardened into a smooth, glass-like finish. such as the surface! The large image is a close-up, the top right image depicts the 1/2 line, and the bottom right image depicts the untreated side. 👍🏼.
I watch a lady on YouTube who makes a lot of beautiful things and uses a lot of different glues and glosses, but this is her go-to. She uses her heater to speed up the cure time, but it only takes 24 hours to complete! I haven't had any issues with it overflowing; I usually smooth it around with a paint brush (with no bristles) or a wooden dowel, toothpick, or popsicle stick, as I don't want it to flow on its own. I also believe you don't require much in the first place. br>br>Once the product has cured, it has a nice hard shell on it, and you can use it within an hour if you don't want to do any more decorating. br>br>Once dried, it is also waterproof and heat resistant. It's one of my go-to sources for information. Because of the curing factor, this is for a glass sealant. Only 24 hours and one coat are required for curing. If you want to, you can apply another coat after an hour, but you are not required to. br>br>This is especially important when making coasters and trivets that need to be sent out for orders. Alternatively, for craft fairs and events. Unlike Mod Podge, which can be used as a glue, sealant, and finisher. However, for a true seal, you'll need about 8 coats. finish, and then let it cure for up to EIGHT WEEKS! Who has that kind of time these days? I don't think so. )br>br>The other resin I use is a two-part resin that takes three days to harden and is slightly thicker than triple thick. You don't have much time to make sure everything is even once you mix and pour it over your work. When I remember what it's called, I'll try to remember to update it.
I'm a huge fan of this stuff - It was originally purchased to seal a diamond painting, and while it's difficult to capture in a photograph, the project retains a lot of luster - It was especially good on this one because the drills were exploding and the drilling was sloppy; They appeared in all shapes and sizes, thick and thin, and so on- I was about to abandon the project when I decided to see what would happen if I used this sealer, and it turned out to be fantastic! br>br>I've also attached a photo of the rocks I'll be using in my fairy garden. I'm only painting half of them at a time so I can keep track of them, but I think it shows the difference. However, please accept my apologies for the poor lighting. It has a very nice gleaming look to it! br>br>I'm a huge fan of this - From now on, it'll be my go-to sealer - It's very thick (hence the name), but it dries beautifully and a little goes a long way, so it's a fantastic value!.
It's something I've recently started doing with my. FABULOUS! My first 8 or 10 pieces turned out beautifully, but after that, I glazed three more pieces, which turned out cloudy. I pushed them aside instead of tossing them, and they were completely clear two days later! So, the bottom line is that the cloudiness may take some time to disappear, but it will! Now that we've dealt with the cloudiness, I'd like to say that this glaze is fantastic. It has a thick consistency. Yes, it will be dome-shaped for a three-dimensional effect. It dries quickly, though I usually leave it to dry overnight. Everything on the market, including Diamond Glaze and Mod Podge, pales in comparison.
It appears to be attractive. Simple to work with. I used it for coasters, but after letting it cure for two days, I placed a cup on top of it for about an hour. A ring had been dented into the glaze when I picked up the mug. I ended up scrapping the entire project, even though I'm sure it would have been fantastic for a different type of project.
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