Ecotex AP Blue All Purpose Ready to Use Screen Printing Emulsion Pint - 16 oz.
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This emulsion is unquestionably good. I'm guessing that some of the negative feedback is due to incorrect exposure times. To expose the emulsion, I personally use an aun. On a typical sunny day, the temperature is around 45 degrees Fahrenheit. For me, 50 seconds is sufficient. With artificial light, I can't say how long the exposure time is, but it's definitely much longer.
Yes, in less than 30 seconds, it can be exposed to sunlight. It's crucial to keep it covered in between exposures, and it's also a good idea to put a flat black board underneath the screen to avoid light reflections. A black poster board with a flat surface will do the trick nicely. After the screen has dried completely, it can be used with water-based inks. When you're finished printing, wash the ink off as soon as possible. If you wait too long, it will be more difficult to remove.
This emulsion has been pre-treated. Plastisol, UV, and other chemicals have been sensitized and are ready to be used. Solvent- Ink that is based. It can also be used with short-run water-based inks. If you're printing in large quantities with water-based inks, however, you can use Diazo or an emulsion Hardener to achieve this.
You can get around /- without using diazo or hardener. Depending on your design, you may receive up to 200 prints. If you're primarily a water-based printer, We recommend Ecotex WR-100 Dual Cure Emulsion for water-based inks. Blue.
Selected User Reviews For Ecotex AP Blue All Purpose Ready to Use Screen Printing Emulsion Pint - 16 oz.
However, it performs admirably! On my screen, I applied a thin coat of varnish. Allow to dry for 24 hours. Wash it down after exposing it to the sun for 15 seconds in direct sunlight or up to 1 minute if there is a heavy overcast. The image disappears completely. If you're using waterbased ink, give it a coat of hardener and you're good to go. 1 pint should be enough to coat 50 - 60 pounds of meat. There are a total of 60 16x20 screens in this installation.
When you try to wash it away, it leaves a loose film. When you apply a little more pressure, the edges of your image, as well as the part you don't want, are pulled out. It was a waste of money. Try it again, and you'll get the same result.
It's all a load of nonsense. I truly believe I have squandered money that I would like to recover. When spraying, you have to scrub far too hard, and it won't come loose without removing fine lines or the image. Latex paint is also provided for free. Horrible. I wish there was a way for me to give it zero stars.
I didn't think it would work, whale. br>br>I used the Ecotex AP Blue Emulsion to coat four new 16x20 TECHTONGDA Aluminum Silk Screens, and they turned out great. As you'd expect from a 61-year-old man, he's out and about. old half- wit, to- My new 16" Emulsion Scoop Coater Tool was actually about 16-inches long. 1/2", so I went with a loose-fitting one. a hacksaw with a blade to cut two horribly weh- wah wah wah wah wah wah wah wah wah wah wah wah wah wah wah buddies. Ending up with a blob of plastic- return the capp- on, in a rickity-rickshaw weeble-weeble-weeble-weeble-weeble-weeble-wee fashion with a sway in order for the Emulsion Goop to work- dripping down the sides and onto the floor uh. (ee shakes his head) br>br>I used the Blue AP Goop to coat four new TECHTONGDA Aluminum Silk Screen Printing Press Screens, coating both sides as best I could with the new Fancy Scooper (was it a waste of money? Probably could have done the same spread job with a piece of wood, blah blah). br>br>I hung the screens in my closet for two days to dry. days. I was looking forward to the day when I could try the "light" trick, but I was dreading it. br>br>Finally, I taped my Transparent Logo to the AP Coated "Test" Screen, haphazardly tearing away my transparency letters TM (for trademark), and using a 99Cent Store IMO "Sharpie" to fake-out the AP Coated "Test" Screen. The TM Letters are a collection of letters that have been written by a group of people (uh. br>br>I had no idea how long to expose the screens to the light or which light to use. br>br>In one of the YT videos, I "heard" someone say that they only expose their screens to 30-minutes of sunlight. seconds IN THE SUNLIGHT, which sounded a whole lot easier than using a 500watt flood light for 20 minutes, special lighting, etc. br>br>"Here we go," I said. br> We took a walk in the sunshine by the pool and counted to 30. one one- a thousand, two hundred and one a thousand, a hundred, a hundred and fifty, a hundred and fifty br>br>Then I went for a three-hour walk while "hiding" the Screen under my bed covers.
. Instead of napping, I dragged the screen into the garage. dreading the nappy Blue's predicted failure to be washed away br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br br>Wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait br>It appears that my logo is appearing (the screen is being washed with water). )br>Grabbing the Big Handy Brush from the sink in the garage. I scrubbed and scrubbed and scrubbed some more, and low and behold, The Emulsion began to peel away in globby clumps (much like Elmers Glue). br>br>I'm going to be DANGED! br>br>IT APPEARS TO BE VERY GOOD! br>br>Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm I'm not sure what went wrong. br>br>NOT BAD, but I'm surprised! br>br>Next, I'll need to cut a piece of wood to use as a screen printing t-shirt surface. shirts. br>br>Oops, I made the Screen Backwards because I "forgot" to reverse the logo; as a result, this screen will need to be treated [specially] because I reversed the wrong side, which means the inner screen will not have the buddy-related information. Instead of facing me, the borders will be facing down on you, buddy. t-shirt's apex shirts. ughbr>br>not bad for a middle-aged manbr>br> don da-br>don da-br>don da-br>don da-br da don! br>br>Thank you, Ecotex AP Blue, for surprising me with a solution that actually works!.
It was even worse than trying to use a smidgeon of dual cure blue I bought from them a year ago and mixed: THAT worked out much better and was more consistent! br>br>I'm not sure why this premixed is so thick! Coating was nearly impossible because the mixture was so thick, unless you used the scoop coater extremely quickly. I only coated each side once, and then I burned the ones that were too thickly coated for 3 minutes with a 1000 watt metal halide grow lamp in the perfect spectrum for exposing (home built exposure unit with hours upon hours of research of readily available bulbs with the proper spectrum). Thick area was not even close to being finished. Then I did my 305 mesh screens, which I coated thinly (or normally in my opinion and experience with other ecotex emulsions), and then burned for 30 seconds. Some of it washed away, but not all of it. I was never given the opportunity to try 20 seconds. Why does it say 6 MINUTES AT 500 watts on the insert? The screen would rise and exit the room! br>br>This premixed stuff may have a learning curve, but if you're used to mixing your own, stick to it for the love of God.
DO NOT USE A THICK PAINT APPLICATION. I'm not sure how this product has so many positive reviews; just stick to the DC Blue and add the Diazo mix that comes with it. It's a lot more reliable and works right out of the box every time. I'm not sure why this one doesn't work, but power washing out the details after hardening takes three times as long. Everything around it will release once it is released. With a UV box, I experimented with different burn times: 40 seconds, 55 seconds, 58 seconds, and even 35 seconds. There's no way to get it to release. The only thing I can think of is that I'm applying it too thickly, but the Ecotec DC emulsion works perfectly. However, I squandered a gallon.
It had been 20 years since I had done any screen printing. The screens dried in a couple of hours after a thin coat, and I used a 150 watt clear bulb for 45 minutes because I'm a DIY type of person. At a height of 12 inches, it takes 55 minutes to complete. The emulsion that was exposed stayed put, while the rest washed away easily. With speedball ink, I was able to get some fantastic, reasonably detailed prints from them. br>br>It is pre-assembled, as stated in the description. Coat and dry in a dark environment if sensitized.
It costs a lot of money, but it is effective. In hindsight, but especially if you plan to do more than one project in a year, this is a fairly straightforward and good product. In comparison to the led emulsion, the exposure experience with this is ideal. In the future, I intend to purchase clear emulsion.
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