Warm Company Steam-A-Seam 2 Double Stick Fusible Web 1/4"X40 Yards
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Your needle will not become clogged with this product. After you've fused it, you can machine stitch over it. br>If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact me.
Sue
Wonder Under fusible webbing is what I'd use. It is available in long, thin strips. I've hemmed curtains with it. In all Ikea curtain packs, they include some.
This product is what I use to set the hem before hand stitching; it makes it easy to hem and doesn't cause puckers like pins can, but I wouldn't use it alone to make a permanent hem.
Yes, but you'll need to use a low setting on your iron and cover your pants with a dish towel to keep them from melting.
Selected User Reviews For Warm Company Steam-A-Seam 2 Double Stick Fusible Web 1/4"X40 Yards
I'm not sure how I feel about this. It was also reasonably priced, which was a bonus. However, I had stitch witchery tape on hand and could have substituted that. When I used it to baste my quilt binding in place, this is what I was thinking/planning: I'd adhere my binding to the first sticky side - Then I'd peel off the protective tape and, because the second side was sticky as well, I'd press the binding to the quilt's edge, and everything would be held in place nicely by the tape's stickiness on both sides. Then I'd heat up my iron and fuse the binding to the fabric. I assumed that each side of the tape would be sticky enough to keep the binding in place on its own. That was not the case for me. br>br> As well as the directions. were insufficient: 1. br>br> "Set your iron to the fabric's setting. "br>br>Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm Before I stick this stuff to each side of the fabric, I'm already heating up my iron? And, based on the name of the product, I'm guessing steam should be on? The first step for something like heat n bond, which I frequently use to bond appliqued baby names to quilts, requires medium heat and no steam for both steps. And their packaging makes this very clear. But in that case, the heat n bond coating paper is ironed first, which isn't the case here, right? Because I'm working with a heavy cotton in home dec weight, I set my iron to high so that the steamy heat can penetrate the double fold binding tape and quilt fabric beneath it. 2. br>br>1. br>br>br>br>br>br "PEEL off a seam 2 that is stuck along the edge of the fabric with steam. If desired, iron the cloth. Take the paper off the table. "br>br>Um, um, um, um, um, um, um, um, um, um, um, um Okay, it appears that peeling off refers to removing the desired amount of tape from the roll. Peel isn't the best word to use when describing a product with a peel-off paper backing, but I see it coming up in two steps, so it'll suffice. I'll start by unrolling a sufficient amount of tape. br>br>Like many double-sided rolled tape products, such as double-sided foam tape rolls, one side is covered with shiny paper and the other side is adhered to the same paper as the next layer in the roll. So I unroll a strip of the stuff and try to adhere it to my binding fabric according to the directions in the second half of the first sentence. br>br>Of course, it should stick, because that's the whole point of this, right? It's double-sided tape that will stick to the first piece of fabric, then I'll press the second piece of fabric on top of the second sticky layer after peeling off the paper? The iron's heat will then melt both layers of fabric, fusing them together more permanently than the sticky glue on the steam a seam could. That is, after all, what I am anticipating. But I can't seem to get the nonpaper coated side of the tape to stick to my quilt edge. At all. Hmm. br>br>I skipped ahead in my reading. Iron "if desired," according to the instructions. " What? If you want to? Why am I making this decision, and why would I make such a decision? Because the sticky isn't sticking to my fabric at all? Is it then necessary for me to iron the paper? I mean, I'll do it if I'm told to and it's how this product is supposed to be applied, but I thought it was sticky? I decide to give ironing a shot, despite the fact that it appears to be an afterthought. the- I'm going to try the paper step to see if it will help the stuff stick to the first layer of fabric. But from a great height? And how about some steam? In order to complete the paper? And how long should I iron the paper side? Two seconds, like for heat n bond? I'm just winging it because the instructions don't provide any guidance. br>br>I try slowly sliding my iron over the paper-backed material and then lifting the paper to see if it peels away. I'm not sure if I should try it while it's still hot or wait until it cools down, but since I'm peeling the paper off a long strip of quilt edge, it's warm at first and cool by the time I get to the end - In other words, I've covered all of my bases. br>br>And I'm having problems with this. In some places, the paper won't come up, and I end up with the same problem you get when a roll of tape splits while you're trying to dispense it: the paper won't come off in one piece, leaving little strips that I have to pick off with my fingernails. The steam a seam stuff has partially melted but is not adhering to the fabric and is instead stretching out into gooey strings as I lift the paper in some sections. br>br>However, the fact that some of the material appears to be fused to the fabric beneath it and releases the paper cleanly gives me hope. This part would have been MUCH more consistent if I had better instructions for the temperature and steam setting, as well as the ironing time. This step, however, is not listed as a requirement - However, if I'm in the mood to iron, I'm free to do so? I'm at a loss. br>br>So, after removing the paper with my fingernails and pressing down the parts that have turned into clumps of gooey strings as much as I can, I fold over my binding and:br>br>3. "STICK to the other fabric's edge or fold - Press the hem to the desired length with your fingers. "br>I do steps 3 and 4 at the same time because I'm not sure there'll ever be any stickiness to this stuff that isn't triggered by heat at this point. So I press down a few inches while simultaneously:br>4. "Heat or steam all areas evenly with an iron for 20 seconds. " If needed, apply pressure to both sides. "br>How about "steaming or heating"? Which is it, one or the other? Is this to say that my iron didn't need to be set to steam? br>br>However, steps 3 and 4 go smoothly as I combine them, and with my iron set to high with steam, I can tell (after letting a section cool, of course) that I am getting a good seal between the binding and the quilt. br>br>However, I am not sure if this product gums up your needle as others have stated here. I had no intention of relying solely on this to secure the binding, but when I stitched it on, I was stitching right on the edge, completely avoiding the center of the binding, where the steam a seam was applied. br>br>Now, as for whether this is any better than the narrow strips of stitch witchery that I already had on hand. . . Well, I guess it is, because after removing the paper that I had ironed on top, most of the steam a seam product remained stuck to my quilt binding. As a result, when I flipped the binding onto the quilt, it stayed put. Of course, I could have simply positioned the stitch witchery on top of the quilt's edge, folded the binding over, and ironed the seam shut. And I would have saved myself a lot of time and effort. br>br>I'm sure this would be useful in some situations – and others have praised it here. For the initial ironing step, I think I'll need to experiment with various heat settings - I'll probably go with medium instead of high with heat n bond, and then see if my problems are solved.
This isn't the most straightforward double-sided fabric tape to work with. Another brand that I prefer is one that sticks without the need for ironing. However, I am a big fan of this stuff. If you have zipper pockets, this will help you stitch around the opening by holding the zipper in place. This also adds very little bulk or weight. Once ironed, it keeps its shape. So here's what I don't like about it: br>br>
- Without heat, it will not stick. br>- It's difficult to pull the paper off once one side has stuck. My shreds never come off in one piece, so I have to use tweezers to remove them. br>- Although needles can become sticky, I now use needles that are specifically designed for sticky situations. This was something I expected, and the competitors do the same thing with their needles. br>br>As I previously stated, I enjoy this material, and it will always have a place in my sewing room alongside its rivals. Each has a distinct function, similar to sewing needles. This is a significant advancement over the old days, when there was only one type of no-sew seam tape to choose from.
Sewing is not my strong suit. At all. And I had a problem that I thought would be solved with a needle and thread. I don't like the open fly on any of my sleepwear or lounge pants. I was thinking about actually dealing with the problem and having them sewn shut at my regular alterations shop. I saw someone on TV giving one of those how-to tips on how to fix something before I did this, and they used an iron. Velcro is used to attach items. It appeared to be a viable solution to my problem. When looking for the iron-on tape, I came across Amazon. com. In the search results for Velcro, this better option came up. br>br>So far, the results have exceeded my expectations. It took less than a minute to insert the product into the pants. After a few washes, the pants I used this on had the Steam-Away feature. Even on a fleece-lined shirt, the seams stay put. I used a type of cloth where I wasn't sure how well the adhesion would hold up. I got exactly what I wanted, and it cost a fraction of what the alteration lady would have.
This is a fantastic method. I own a sewing machine, but I have no idea how to use it. I needed some odd-sized camper curtains, so I hemmed the ones I cut with this. It was a huge success. I ironed a fold where the hem would go first, then opened the fold and taped it, then pulled off the backing and refolded it. It was simple to maintain a nice line; otherwise, it became a little unsightly, and the iron pushed the fabric in strange directions. I actually ironed the tape at one point. That got a little out of hand. However, there were no issues when I folded it the traditional way; it just took a little longer. So far, everything appears to be in good working order. It did come apart on the first try, but I was in a hurry and assumed the tape just needed to warm up. not true. Make every effort to heat the tape for the full 20 seconds. I even tried it on outdoor patio furniture fabric and had no problems. It was a fine silky fabric. Also suitable for use as a curtain. I believe it will work if you can iron it.
I was disappointed. I used this on several projects and was dissatisfied with how well it performed. The seam tape melted and only partially held the seams together, so I had to go back and stitch them down. It's possible that it's because the product is old, but either way, I'm not pleased. I would have given it a lower rating if I could.
Steam - A - Using a seam instead of pins made it easier to put on a garment made of stretchable material. Before sewing the seams together, I tried it out first. The hems will not stretch out of shape as a result of this. It appears to be fantastic! I'm looking forward to working on my next project.
I'm not new to this product, and I've had a lot of success with it over the years. Having said that, the product I received must be old because it does not function! You iron it on as directed, but removing the paper backing is nearly impossible. All of it was thrown away by me!.
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